In the 18th century, in Parma, Italia, there was fine printer and typographer named Giambattista Bodoni -- his work was called by many of his time and since, as the exemplar of sophistication in design. Beautiful books, exquisite typefaces, amazing sense of airiness and restraint. The type of our masthead is custom designed and hand-drawn by Tim Girvin and his team in NYC | Seattle, creating a perfection on the classics from centuries past, to a new revised and refined titling treatment -- just for us! Sniffapalooza Magazine Banner by Tim Girvin.
Sniffapalooza logo/banner: Bond No. 9 is a registered trademark of Laurice & Co. ©2008
The last issue has been archived in "Interviews", Most Recent Articles, Natural Perfumers Page & Fragrance Reviews Vol 4.
If you have not seen Part One, Two and Part Three of the exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Fragrance and the Arts Series by Michelyn Camen, you can view here.
All rights reserved 2006-2009. All content belongs to Sniffapalooza Magazine.
All articles by individual writers and contributors, understand and agree that each article that is accepted by the Editor for publication; becomes the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for the sole purpose of publication for Sniffapalooza Magazine. Articles may be archived for permanent use on the web site for Sniffapalooza Magazine and for future issues. All articles remain the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for display purposes only.
November 20, 2008
In this issue we feature The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Two- Nest Fragrances,
Le Cherche Midi, and Joya with featured interviews, Cinquieme Sens opens an Olfactory training center in New York City, view the stunning Holiday ‘08 from Bond No. 9,
UNDER THE RADAR: Estéban; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Dominique Alison CEO. We feature Scents in the City: Clyde’s on Madison Fragrant Gems Amidst the Bobby Pins: An Interview with General Manager Rick Friedland and Blossom and Spice…and Everything Nice . We are also proud to feature in-depth interviews with two artisanal natural perfumers: Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums and an interview with Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery that includes a review; "Cat’s Meow" by Tonie Silver, Yves Rocher Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolute & Iris Noir and a new fragrance from Switzerland by Perfumer Brigitte Witschi, who created the new fragrance "edelweiss".
We share with you; The American Society of Perfumers Announces Honorees from its 2008 Perfumers’ Choice Awards, Nature’s Bounty: How to Smell ’Up’, Even When the Dow is Downnnnnnnnn; Just our Two Scents, Parlux Fragrances signs Queen Latifah and Aftelier’s Mandy AfteI Introduces Cassis . We offer Estée Lauder’s Vintage Jewels collection, Ormonde Jayne’s new multi-wick candle and new release of Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan, Chicago Entrepreneur launches “lifetherapy”, Strange Invisible Perfumes Holiday 2008 and Caron Paris Pays Tribute to Haute-Parfumerie with Montaigne Diamélite.
December 1, 2008
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Scentsational Holiday Gift Guide,
The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Three - Antica Farmacista, Archipelago Botanicals including interviews & "The Best of the Rest" , Viva La Juicy…The Grown Up Fragrance, UNDER THE RADAR: An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Salvatore Piazzolla of Hampton Sun and Parfums Mercedes Jus d'Amour new fragrance review by Juvy Santos. We also feature UPTOWN GIRL: Perfumer / Aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opens new design studio & storefront in Boulder Colorado's fashionable district and "A Good Pre-Christmas Sniff at First In Fragrance, Germany" By Bettina d’Onofrio.
Finally, Sniffapalooza Magazine is proud to make a special announcement!
THE fragrance event of the season is fast approaching and the one and only fragrance legend, Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, has granted us an exclusive interview. We are thrilled to welcome MICHAEL EDWARDS in a rare appearance as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of his iconic fragrance reference books and revolutionary classification system at Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete. Don't miss our next issue for the video and written interview with Mr. Edwards by Mark David Boberick.
A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
Burning Down The House Series
The Influencers Speak
Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Jean Claude Ellena; In-House Perfumer of the House of Hermès, Michel Roudnitska, Mandy Aftel, Kilian Hennessy, Chandler Burr Perfume Critic for the New York Times, George Wuchsa-The Global E-tailer of First-In-Fragrance, Ron Robinson of Apothia, Andy Tauer, Yosh Han, Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood of LuckyScent, Vero Kern and Sarah Horowitz-Thran.
The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams of Sniffapalooza.com
Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz ‘Les Christophs’, Nobi Shioyo of
S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog.
Niche fragrance at its best is cutting edge, thought provoking and controversial. These are our anti-heroes and heroines of scent. Some are outspoken, some stay hidden in the shadows. All are unique.
Why did the sales of niche fragrances double within the last year and a half, while the commercial fragrance industry is losing ground? With nearly a thousand new launches a year, millions spent in advertising, flanker after flanker, what is happening to our fragrant world? I posed this question to a group of industry ‘influencers’ (les nez, the retailers, the niche and artisnal perfumers, the critics, the bloggers, and the owners of fine fragrance companies), who are leaving their thumbprints, as unique as their words, on the match that is burning down ‘the house of mediocrity’.
In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers and some of the greatest innovators in the Fragrance industry share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question:
“What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”
Their words are uncut, unplugged, unedited.
Serge Lutens
Laurice Rahmé
Frederic Malle
Jean Claude Ellena
In a series written exclusively for Sniffapalooza Magazine, prepare yourself for a multi sensory olfactive journey, where fragrances embrace the worlds of fiction, fine art, film, music and dance.
Tales, myths, and larger than life characters thrive in the world of perfumery and this is what makes perfumery mysterious, multifaceted, intriguing, magical, and forever wavering between fact and fiction. In Volume 1, Book 1i. we meet the niche ‘feminines’ who had most profound effects on us from both a literary and olfactive perspective.
In Volume 1, Book ii we meet a Cop and three Queens, a pampered socialite and a woman of ill repute, and an aging beauty and a Goddess. These fictional and/or iconic women span centuries and continents, blurring the lines between truth and fiction and time --- from the 10th century BC to the Year 2058. These are their fragrances; the scents that would bring them to life and live forever in the realm of our imagination.
Part 3 features Men in fiction – flawed as all men (and women) are, but men who dare to dream, to rule or to experience. Whether they are vilified or placed high atop a pedestal, here are five iconic men who 'lived' in a world long before our own time. These men will always resonate with us and are brought to life here through fragrance.
January 6, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: An Interview with Camille Goutal, Artistic Director; Annick Goutal Parfums, we feature the continuing series "Real Men Wear Violets" By Michael W. Davis and The Scent of a Woman: Verno Kern’s Rubj" . We continue this issue with "Milieu…The Fragrance for the New Year" and "An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn; Aedes Attains A Class Act With Une Histoire De Chypre" By Barbara vanBok. We also offer the press release for the NEW Bond No. 9 BROOKLYN fragrance and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews New York City Perfumer Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis, we introduce two new products; the new release of PureDistance Parfume and a Puredistance Perfume Lounge opens in Vienna, we close out with ExfoliShave.
January 13: Due to the overwhelming response to our interview with Camille Goutal, Ms. Goutal has expanded her interview and in this edition reveals many new personal insights.
Camille Goutal
DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae
photo credit: Zenobia Barlow
January 19, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: Jean-Claude Ellena Réinventés Vanilla; Hermès Hermessence Introduces Vanille Galante , Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Exclusive Interview and breaking news item with Ms. DelRae Roth CEO, Creative Director of Parfums DelRae as she speaks of the latest fragrance Emotionelle with Michel Roudnitska . We also feature The Magical Allure of Fragrances in Fairyland, A Perfume Review, Campos di Ibizia Reviews by Kathy Patterson, Another Birthday? Wear Grapefruit, Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Trina Lewis Natural Perfumer, Founder and Director of HipLilly Aroma Couture™ and we finish this issue with The Allure of Amber.
February 12, 2009
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Perfumer Kristen Michèle of Kristen Michèle Parfumeur, an in-depth article about melon in fragrances called "Niche Meloncholy" By Elena Vosnaki, upcoming Guerlain releases, Love the Key to Life and Parfums des Beaux Arts: A Gallery of Masterpieces featuring Dawn Spencer Hurwitz.
We also feature Raphaella's Roses, Ormonde Jayne now offers initial engraved bottles, online boutique Mio Mia is offering a free sample offer; Estée Lauder shows us Valentine’s Day Gifts, Viva La Ajne hits Las Vegas and Sniffapalooza Magazine features "The Naturals" with an interview with Julie Longyear of Irie Star/Blissoma.
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'.
February 1, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive:
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'. Symine Salimpour, Founder and Owner of Hors Là Monde as she also introduces Lady Shiloh, Real Men Wear… Perles By Michael Davis and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Mercedes Ganon of Parfums Mercedes Jus D’ Amour.
We feature Crazylibellule and the Poppies L’eau de Crazy Cologne, Diptyque opens new a boutique in New York City with exclusive Diptyque Roses Candle and you can Take an Olfactive Journey with Sue Phillips of Scenterprises/Perfume Studio. We offer to our readers Ginestet: Gets Sweeter With Time; The History, The Fragrance, The Aroma, Love Notes, Kingsbury Fragrances Twilight Rose review By Raphaella Barkley, Ron Robinson introduces Pearl Eau De Parfum by Apothia Los Angeles and Ajne offers us Aphrodite honoring The Goddess of Love and for the men; Adonis. We close with The Naturals: Sniffapalooza Magazines Interview with Natural Perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfumes.
Mercedes Ganon
Symine Salimpour
MISAKI
Tsi~La Organic Eau De Parfum
Seductive and inviting organic fresh lavender fragrance. French lavender, warm tea, Italian bergamot, crushed mint, green tree moss, Tahitian vanilla orchid, and delicate neroli nectar infuse with living flower extracts to create a gentle organic fragrance saturated in tranquility.
Tsi~La living flower perfume combines the antioxidant benefits of organic Goji berry, organic persimmon and organic red tea with moisturizing organic honey.
**100% natural fragrance containing 95% USDA certified organic and wild-crafted essential oils of French Lavender, Madagascar Ylang Ylang, Italian Lemon, Juniper Berry, Clary Sage, and Sicilian Bergamot
Love, the Key to Life
“After an inspiring trip to Egypt, I created a unique logo and fragrance to go with it. Love, The Key To Life was conceived during a personal journey down the Nile. Love is universal and that timeless concept became intensely clear to me as I stood beneath the Temples in the Egyptian sun. I decided then and there that I wanted to create a fragrance that like love was powerful and without boundaries, passionate, romantic yet sometimes fragile, ancient and modern all at once. Subtle, sensuous and alluring as Cleopatra yet spiked with Boho Chic, the scent gently unfolds with enticing mystery. Love, the Key to Life is as exhilarating as a trip down the Nile and as enduring as true passion.”
-Linda Gerlach, Founder
Viva La Ajne!
Ajne Rare & Precious and Four Seasons Las Vegas
Hit the Jackpot
"Serenity in Las Vegas does exist, you just have to know where to find it." That's the motto of the
Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas and now the spa is the first in the city to offer guests the ultimate
in custom pampering at their Ajne Rare & Precious blending bar.Known as a peaceful respite from
the bustling Las Vegas Strip, The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Las Vegas offers one-of-a-kind treatments
and services in a warm, intimate environment. Now the spa is taking those one-of-a-kind treatments
a step further by offering guests the chance to create their very own custom Ajne fragrances and spa treatments.
Ajne Rare & Precious is the destination for couture and prêt-a-porter parfums and The Spa at Four Seasons
Las Vegas is the first in Vegas to offer Ajne's custom demi-blending experience. Ajne's founder and
Natural Perfumer ; "We couldn't be more excited to launch our demi-blending at The Four Seasons
Las Vegas," says Hendler. The Spa at The Four Seasons Las Vegas is the most luxurious spa in the
city and guests from all over the world will now have the unique opportunity to create a personal Ajne
fragrance. We also look forward to blending for Las Vegans and brides to be in the wedding capitol of the world!"
When guests at The Spa at The Four Seasons Las Vegas choose an Ajne treatment they are treated to a
day of rare and precious relaxation created especially for them. All of Ajne's fragrances are based on the
ancient Chakra system and each client will start by taking Ajne's fun computerized "Chakra Test" which will
help the spa's mélanger determine which areas of the body need harmonizing. Then, the mélanger blends
a signature Ajne fragrance with all-natural oils that will balance the body. That fragrance can be added to
spa products for a custom treatment, and purchased to use at home.
The Spa is also thrilled to offer brides a unique and romantic experience on their wedding days by blending custom Ajne fragrances for Brides, Grooms, and Wedding Parties. Ajne is the creator of Amour Infini, the signature scent for "Inside Weddings," and the spa's mélanger will help wedding parties blend their personal fragrances by hosting a special day of pampering. Ajne can even help brides create a signature scent for their wedding receptions where fragrance is diffused throughout the party to create loving and lasting memories. Guests can then take those memories home with mini-bottles of parfum as a rare and precious wedding favor.
Clients choose Ajne because the parfumerie does not use any aroma-chemicals and phthalates in it's fragrances or body care products, instead choosing organic essential oils, a healthier alternative for both the client and the environment. The healing organic oils found in Ajne fragrances come from sustainable crops grown by farmers all over the world. Because they are organic, some of these rare and precious oils are worth more than pure gold!
Ajne is America's first truly authentic all natural parfumerie. Products are available at our flagship store in Carmel, CA our boutique at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City, select Four Seasons Resorts and www.ajne.com.
Ajne's flagship store is located on fabled Ocean Avenue in Carmel, CA. Our products are also available at our boutique at Bergdorf Goodman, Select Four Seasons Resorts, The Langham Spa in Pasadena, and online at www.ajne.com.
Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews
Julie Longyear
Irie Star/Blissoma
Julie, can you tell us briefly about yourself and your business?
Irie Star, LLC is a manufacturer, wholesaler, and retailer of natural essential oil an herbal creations currently including soy candles, skincare, and natural wellness products sold under the Blissoma brand. Blissoma products are positioned as quality, essential therapies and sold at a premium price in natural foods markets, upscale boutiques, spas, and natural health centers. Irie Star has been in business for 8 years and has garnered increasing attention and an excellent reputation in the Midwestern community and nationally in the USA as a quality producer of unique aromatic merchandise.
Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews
Perfumer Kristen Michèle
Kristen Michèle Parfumeur
By Raphaella Brescia Barkley
Kristen, how did you come to get involved in the fragrance business and what led you to be a perfumer?
Well, I have always loved fragrances, but I think it’s much more than this. After all, while most women love perfume, they don’t usually grow up to become perfumers. For me, it was an evolution of artistic experiences combined with an entrepreneurial drive that ultimately paved the way for my work in this field. From a young age, I was highly curious about perfume and how the variations of scent could evoke intense emotions in me. It was interesting and mesmerizing. Instead of playing childhood games, I was collecting and mixing oils. In addition, I was exposed to the classics through a family of fashion forward women who were lovers of fine fragrance. Naturally, I started to have a sense of what was going on in fashion and beauty. (I was subscribing to Vogue in the fifth grade!) In my soul I knew I would be involved in the beauty industry. But I was always most interested in fragrance-- the history, the mystery of the relationship between scent and memories, and the ability to create limitless formulas. But the reality is I don’t have generations of perfumers in my lineage, so my path wasn’t as direct as some within the field.
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Nip Tuck and 90210 actress AnnaLynne McCord
With actress & singer Tia Carrere
HBO'S Sex & The City's Willie Garson
“With its sensual ability to attract and its elusive power to seduce, Perfume colors and shapes our impressions and memories. It infuses boundless emotions and carries us into the sublime.”
- Kristen Michèle
Ormonde Jayne offers Initial Engraved Bottles
Ormonde Jayne will engrave your beloved's initials onto the gold and glass stopper of our iconic Pure Parfum bottle and have it delivered to your door in a beautiful shagreen box. This service will take five working days to complete.
Try Osmanthus Absolute, a beautifully composed uplifting perfume with golden citrus notes…intense yet uncomplicated , with notes of pomello, pimento, vetiver and water lilly.
“Ormonde Jayne’s Osmanthus exudes pure and simple passion and awakens the senses. Pulsating with great honesty and beauty, Osmanthus doesn’t compete with you but adds to your natural panache”.
- Sniffapalooza Magazine
Your amber is also very unusual and I collect “ambers” so take that as a compliment-It is very sexy…it has to be the tuberose in it, yes?
I love that you collect ambers. I find myself curious about different ambers as well. I’m glad it meets your approval! This particular amber works very well with the tuberose and jasmine I use. It’s become a staple in some of my special scents. I incorporated it into a perfume that has yet to launch, but will in the near future. I’ve tested it on many women and men and it is completely unique and gorgeous. I can’t wait to show it off!! Maybe I’ll send you a small vial…
You have three fragrances; Notes Fraîches (Fresh Notes) Fleurs Blanches (White Flowers) and most exotic, Épices Orientale (Oriental Spice). Each one is unique; tell us about these fragrances and the notes.
Notes Fraîches is a modern scent and the most popular across the board. It is fresh and sparkly and along the lines of a “clean” perfume. Originally, it was composed of watery marine-like tones, but I varied it slightly by adding gardenia. It’s a great perfume to wear during the spring and summer (though, I don’t personally classify my picks by the season). This perfume has top notes of citrus and marine that wash into sweetish-green heart notes, including honeysuckle, water lily and now, gardenia. Light musk and white tea ground the meadow-like scent.
Fleurs Blanches is a very feminine perfume. It possesses a soft yet rich, floral-sweet tone. The heart of this fragrance is composed of all white flowers such as plumeria, muguet and tuberose. They float ethereally on a base accord of white amber, musk and sandalwood, with a touch of citrus and berry for lift. It’s a highly “blended” composition, so you don’t notice the nuances of each note individually.
Épices Orientale is a floriental; it is decadent and sexy, resonating something of a classic French perfume. Citrusy blood orange is the predominant top note that warms with the addition of jasmine, tuberose and spice. They all meld into amber and patchouli, which to me conjures the image of a Moroccan sunset. If I had to compare this to a larger known fragrance it would be along the lines of Shalimar or Coco. This is by far the most often selected for review by niche connoisseurs.
Did you start out with just one fragrance or produce all three at once?
Well, I launched the three together, but they were created one at a time. When I start with a new scent, I let my intuition guide me. (I find that if I set up too many parameters before I begin it stifles the creative process.) As I realize something special is beginning to emerge, I begin to define the scent. I never really feel like a perfume is “complete,” but I have to force myself to stop at some point.
What was your favorite fragrance growing up?
I can literally mark the stages of my life by the perfume that I wore. When I was very young I enjoyed wearing single note perfume oil: patchouli, sandalwood, amber and, oddly, blueberry. There was an amazing blueberry blend that was deep and exotic, rather than sugary and shallow as you might think. I loved to tap a bit on my wrist along with a woody or an earthy oil. As the bohemian in me transformed into dainty, I wore Fracas, Joy, Chloe and Murasaki by Shiseido. My all time fave was Joy. It is so feminine and rich and little did I know the effect it would have on my future. It’s nostalgic.
What do you mean by that? How did Joy affect your future?
Jean Patou’s Joy, was very influential and it opened up my adoration of all things French, elegant and expensive. As a young girl I fell in love with the scent and the bottle. My first experience with it was at my aunt Joanne’s house. She was amazingly stylish and beautiful. After getting caught dousing myself with the parfum in her bedroom, she laughed and said I could keep it! The empty bottle still sits atop my boudoir table! It symbolizes a desire I didn’t quite understand at that age; I didn’t yet realize it was more to me than just fantasizing about how neat to be able to make such a beautiful perfume. Needless to say I am smitten with French perfume and its makers. The talent and originality of each scent and artist is something of a mystery, something to be admired and studied.
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever smelled?
My god, this is a tough question. There is fragrance and there is perfume. As far as fragrance goes, I like to recall scents of influential people from my youth, like my father and grandfather. My father’s scent could be described as ambery, musky and velvety. My grandfather’s scent was part Acqua Di Parma part Cuban tobacco and fresh cut wood. I can’t really define it, but when I come across a whiff reminiscent of them, it’s as if their spirit instantly appears and I am comforted.
As far as the most amazing perfume… hmmm, I just don’t have ONE. I’d go to jail before I’d be able to commit to one scent. I am drawn to perfume such as Caron’s Tabac Blond, Serge Luten’s Bois Orientale, Sarah Horowitz-Thran’s Perfect Bliss and Perfect Sunset, Fath de Fath and Coco, all of which I anoint myself with regularly. Oh, and I am in love with the entire Ormonde Jayne collection.
Which fragrance do you wish you had created?
Chanel No. 5.
With so many fragrances on the market, does that hinder you in anyway? The niche market has really exploded last year and then the economy tanked-any thoughts?
Multiple fragrances on the market are just a sign of our times. I knew this going in. Though, it is a frightening time when it comes down to it. When you read the numbers of the top fragrance houses going down it strikes a chord. It makes you wonder how you can survive if they are struggling. But, with this said, I think it is a time when the niche market can flourish. It is a good time to be unique, small and intimate. Small perfume houses have an edge and should use it to their advantage right now.
Personally, I believe the market will hinder me only if I don’t keep up my efforts. I have to work harder, be smarter and take risks. Clearly, my competition is not the commercial market. At least not right now. There is a load of competition, but I am not going to sacrifice my integrity and the core of what I believe to sell perfume. Of course, I need to earn a profit if I intend to grow, but I can only focus on what I am capable of. If I think of everything I don’t have or what so and so has, I might end up in a psych ward. I am just beginning to emerge and I have faith that I am right where I need to be.
Is there anything else you would like our readers to know about you or your fragrance that we have not discussed?
I have to say I placed so much emphasis on French perfumery. I want to add that there are quite a few American perfumers who “can hold their own” to any one of the top five French perfumers, one of whom has had a big influence on me and who has been more of an inspiration than she’ll ever know: Sarah Horowitz. She is the leading lady of independent perfumers in this country. While she is recognized, I don’t think she is given enough credit. Sarah is talented in so many ways and has worked quite hard on her own as a perfumer and an entrepreneur while remaining humble. She’s also the nose behind many fragrance lines---some people may not know this. You can interview her and get down to earth answers! I adore her.
Kristen, we wish you the best! Your fragrances are very beautiful and I wish you much success, you deserve it.
I appreciate it and I am grateful to you and all the Sniffa folks! I think you are doing great work by shedding light and giving a voice to the small niche society of perfumers. And you do it out of love and passion, a rarity these days, indeed.
Thank you for hearing my voice.
Where are your fragrances and samples available? The best place is my website: I also have generous sample packets for sale so you can try to trio of my fragrances.
Reviews next issue
I lost my father at a young age and it had a profound effect on me. It made me feel I had to carry out my dreams, stick with my goals and become successful -- something he didn’t get a chance to complete in his lifetime. After graduating college I dabbled in music. I think I used music to purge the sadness of losing my father. There are infinite possibilities in creating music, just like perfumery.
Although I loved it, still love it; it was sort of a melancholic experience. In order to feel better, I started to create scents again--full-time. This therapeutic process was similar to a “fluid” journal that eventually bore a worthy tangible asset. I shaped a course that would take my longtime interest into a profession. I built a foundation of knowledge in all aspects of the art form and industry
alike. I traveled, studied, apprenticed and continued to create. Once I had several perfumes in my repertoire, along with positive feedback, I started the line. I felt I had something special to contribute, something that could make a difference in peoples lives. And each day this passion plays out, I realize there is still so much more I have to learn and experience.
Your fragrances are very feminine, very beautiful and very affordable; tell us what moved you to create these.
Thank you very much for your kind words, you have been so good to me from the moment we met. A huge part of my inspiration is classic French perfumery of the early 1920s, ’30s and ’40s. For one, I love that era, both in America and in France, although it was a time of major change and war. I love the concept of the small perfume house--artisans who worked their craft with pride and passion rather than for the benefit of global commercialism. So I set out to create a collection of feminine, sophisticated perfume-- something women would feel sexy, confident and glamorous wearing, something reminiscent of a bygone time. I didn’t intend to literally capture three decades in a bottle, how can you? It is simply my perception, and weaves through my work as such. I was also determined to design scents for women that didn’t make them smell as if they had just bathed in a fruit basket.
Nip/Tuck actress Roma Maffia
With actor David Krumholtz
Blissoma is a botanical product line for body and home focusing on the pleasurable, medicinal, and therapeutic uses of herbs and essential oils. The line addresses specific needs within the naturals and gift industries through unique recipes, attractive packaging, strong branding, trusting, enthusiastic relationships with our customers, and a pricing structure that makes quality products available to both middle and high income consumers.
Blissoma began in 2000 with a line of soy wax candles, scented with signature essential oil blends. Soy wax was innovative within the candle-making industry especially at the time Irie Star began making candles. As the Blissoma line has grown the focus has broadened to include niche body products such as Lip Elixirs, Stress Serum, organic perfume oils, and more. All products use only botanical ingredients sourced from trusted, quality, innovative suppliers. This provides consumers with the most pure, natural, and effective end product. The Blissoma body-care products are all made with a large percentage of organic ingredients in order to respond to consumer concerns about toxic pesticide and herbicide residues left from commercial farming techniques, as well as growing awareness of the environment.
There must have been a defining moment that led you to become a perfumer. How did that happen? My history is more about the journey than any specific moment. I have always enjoyed authentic materials and experimentation. Where I have landed is simply a manifestation of my wanderings.
After college I pursued a variety of creative endeavors in my quest to establish myself in the professional world. My degree was in Ceramics which, perhaps surprisingly, relates nicely to my current role as a formulator and perfumer. Ceramics is all about chemistry and the fusion of different ingredients to create an enduring final product. Personal care formulation and perfumery embodies that same process.
I had been exposed to natural lifestyle as a result of where I went to school in Lawrence, Kansas. In the St. Louis suburbs where I grew up there weren’t any organic grocery stores or co-ops. I became a natural products shopper at the Community Mercantile, and when I returned home found the products I needed at Wild Oats. My very first collection of essential oils came from that store. I enjoyed spending my time immersed in scent so much that it began to take over. The internet became a valuable tool for searching for raw materials, and I spent every spare dollar on building my supply base for blending.
The most striking thing is that perfumery was almost a complete accident in my life. I have always been very simple in my beauty routines. I don’t wear much makeup most days, spend time on my hair only when I am going to an event, and never wore commercial perfumes. What has always made me feel beautiful is being real, which seemed very diametrically opposed to the American cultural concept of beauty. Too often people spend time covering themselves up, and I am all about revelation. Beautifully, that is exactly what natural perfumery helps to do – reveal. It amplifies personality without masking.
Becoming a perfumer for me has been all about self discovery, which is ultimately what any of my endeavors are about. I love to stay connected to the light and creative spirit inside myself. I hope my scents will pass that inspiration on to others.
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever smelled? Pure jasmine. A deep breath of it opens up something in your chest, warms you and brings a smile. I have had others smell it alone and everyone’s face just lights up as they breathe it in.
Why do you think so many women and men are part of this fragrance explosion, especially the green and natural trend? We have become so completely disconnected from the true elements that sustain us. Mentally and physically there are reasons. Physically many of the foreign, synthetic chemicals in typical commercial products are irritating people as the chemical load on our bodies reaches critical mass. These are not substances our bodies were meant to handle, and the combinations of so many of them is causing extreme reactions to many. Mentally I believe we need natural fragrance in our lives because we spend so much of our lives in sterile, manufactured environments. We interact more with computers than with other people. Though we are stressed and overstimulated in so many ways our noses are a sense that too often is either assaulted or ignored completely. We need gentle, appropriate stimulation to our sense of smell the same way we need loving touch. I think we psychically crave scents from the natural world where we evolved. Our noses are built to recognize pleasure vs. poison, to sustain the very essence of our survival. Our sense of smell is linked to our deepest memory cortexes. In effect a life without smell is a life without memory. We need scents as a marker, as catharsis, as joy.
Is there anything else you would like our readers to know about you or your perfumes that we have not discussed? We are definitely striking out to create combinations unlike the usual sweet perfume. They still fit the concept of perfume as a scent worn for personal enhancement, and as a signature, but because we use no absolutes our basis for formulation is dramatically different from many lines. I am thinking of our line as an adventure for our customers and for us. Many times people must smell our scents a few times to know if they are really right for them because they are not “like” other perfumes. I think the exploration is worthwhile, and that the sensual shock is enjoyable. Our scents will definitely make a statement about your individualism to others, and may even uplift the atmosphere of a whole room. They are a fantastic way to explore facets of your personality as well.
Where are your fragrances available for sale at and what is your web site?
Our BLENDS perfumes are available for sale on our website at www.iriestar.com , Bristol Farms in San Francisco, CA, Whole Foods Market in St. Louis, MO and Hinsdale, IL, and with us when we appear at national shopping events like the Green Festivals. We are always working to place our items in more locations and have currently been speaking to major retailers like Nordstrom’s about national distribution. We hope to form a charitable partnership to put 5% of BLENDS proceeds to work in positive endeavors.
Now through 2/28/09 we are donating 30% of all Cupcake Soap sales on our website to the Breast Cancer Network of Strength. Send a friend a cupcake to show them you are thinking about them. Our signature gift item... These little soaps are a pretty item for any bathroom. We cook up some fabulous natural soap and form it in cupcake papers. Then we decorate it by hand with real dried flowers. Just remove the flowers and the paper and get to washing! Now available in three essential oil scents: Lavender, Peppermint, and our new Pink Grapefruit. The ingredients for this soap are pure and simple. Saponified Organic Olive Oil, Organic Palm Kernal Oil, Organic Coconut Oil, Organic Shea Butter, and essential oils with Organic natural herb and spice colorants.
We are working to benefit this organization because of the amazing emotional support they provide to breast cancer patients and their families, which can be crucial in surviving the disease. We are encouraging everyone to send a cupcake to a friend, especially anyone who has been affected by cancer.
We are also trying to help educate women about their beauty regimens to help them find a more chemical-free routine. The average woman comes into contact with hundreds of different cosmetic chemicals every day and that can be lessened dramatically by choosing products that are made from from natural ingredients. Until the exact cause of cancer is known a clean lifestyle is the best way we can all protect ourselves and protect our clean environment. Since personal care products do go down the drain and into our water supply the chemical load is not only just on the skin, but can build up in our environment. Natural products are also ideal for women who have survived cancer and chemo and may have developed sensitivities. Thanks so much for covering us!
Fragrances:
Can you tell us what Natural Perfumery means to you?
Natural Perfumery has increased my connection to the world around me – to growing seasons and farmers, to world politics, to the rhythm of life. I feel my place in world culture when I wear a natural scent. It is all about circulating energy, stories, and happiness.
Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve created. I am always in love with whatever scent I’ve created most recently. My mind is restless and I never remain focused on any one scent for too long. I love variety. Lately I’ve been enveloped in Sweet Somethings, our most recent winter perfume introduction. It has been perfectly suiting my mind turning to the coolness of fall.
Twitter Painted is one that always fascinates me as well. It is such an unusual scent that it wakes up the mind to smell it. The super grassy start it has is refreshing, and then it fades into sweetness. I come back to that one over and over again. I blend for many types of products besides perfumes, and this summer I was really stuck on anything with lime. I made a Mohito sugar scrub soap which smelled positively delicious. It was well-liked by customers as well. And in classic fashion I am dreaming of all the things I have yet to create. Vanilla has been floating around the edges of my consciousness now, but there is always something….
As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration? Things just kindof come to me based on the changing of seasons, images, people, etc. I am an information and image sponge. I need constant input from all kinds of sources to feed on. I frequently have TV, radio, and computer going at the same time and I am always looking for more. I feel ideas more than experiencing them in a logical sort of way. It is very related to energy and bouncing off the activities of other people. Humans are a constant source of amusment, education, and fascination for me and I make my products to be enjoyed by them accordingly.
What was your favorite fragrance growing up? I don’t even know if I really had one….I only ever had 1 or 2 actual perfumes as a child and they were very cheap bargain store items. I hardly ever wore them, even at 12 and 13 when I was trying to grow up and “be a woman”. Perhaps the smell of fresh things like sliced strawberries from my grandfather’s small garden, my mom’s tea or dad’s coffee, campfires, crushed leaves, and the smell of clean air while playing outside. Ginger cookies baking during the holidays and the real Christmas trees we’d get. There are scents that I would never forget, though would not call good - ammonia while cleaning my grandmother’s house, and the smell of an airbag inflating during a car accident in college.
EDITORS NOTE: The Naturals: A recent addition to Sniffapalooza Magazine was the inclusion of a page dedicated to "naturals" so that they could express their own views in the magazine. I believe that perfumers from every part of the industry should have the opportunity to be heard. My approach has been to let individual readers decide who they wish to seek out. I believe that natural perfumers should have a chance at the same amount of exposure as all other perfumers and houses. It was gratifying to find that the response from readers was overwhelming in their support. Everyone is welcome into "our house", perfumers small or large. I do not care if a fragrance is "natural" , "semi-natural" or not; not all pure "naturals" agree with me and "natural" does not automatically mean "superior". Some people are allergic to certain naturals. All I care about is a fragrances artistic beauty, the quality of a fragrance and how it makes me feel. I also own numerous gorgeous natural fragrances. It's very personal and subjective but is always about "The Juice." My mission statement for this project is: Our readers are savvy and I think they are fascinated by all aspects of fragrance. If you look at the guest book in the magazine, I think that shows. I believe that everyone deserves their 15 minutes of fame-everyone deserves to shine, no matter how “big or how small”. I leave it up to individuals to decide who they wish to support - that is not up to me. This naturals section is for those who are intrigued by the very interesting and wild world of "The Naturals". -RB For more natural perfumers go to: The Natural's Page.
Julie Longyear
About the author:
Elena Vosnaki is a multi-lingual historian and Bronze Age archaeologist from Greece who has been collecting fragrances since she can remember and writing about them in various publications around the world. After getting her degree in Musical Studies, the realization that perfumery is an art-form as well dawned and more formal studying of the fiber of that art-form began, continuing to this day. To that end she created www.perfumeshrine.com, a site dedicated to the finer pleasures in life. Contact: perfumeshrine@yahoo.com
Niche Meloncholy
By Elena Vosnaki
If you have been paying attention to recent releases, surely you have noticed that melon, from honeydew to cantaloupe to watermelon, especially in tandem with aquatic notes which in itself it renders effortlessly, has infiltrated the niche side of the fragrant market in a substantial way lately and its reign doesn’t look as if it would soon come to an end. It’s rather ironic given that meloney, watery scents have been anathema for a whole (young) generation who grew up on a "niche" treasure hunt, shopping at the appropriate abodes with all the gusto of a card-holding dot.com progeny and going for heavy-artillery ambers, serious-brow incenses and begrimed patchoulis in a rancor for their innocently oblivious youth shopping at Macy’s for Aqua di Gio and L’eau d’Issey or to demarcate themselves from the hoi polloi who have been drawing themselves in a puddle of pink fruity florals for years.
Well, there's nothing like an old trend returning from the attic (as anyone who has worn bat-sleeves and drainpipe jeans the first time around can attest) and it seems like several 2008 releases are going for just that retro touch in completely contemporary compositions which managed to make us sit up and take notice:
Angels of Florence by Santa Maria Novella, Parfums Gres Hommage à Marlene Dietrich My Dream, John Varvatos Vintage for Men all contain melon-like notes and the latest Parfums DelRae Emotionelle, masterminded by Michel Roudnitska, son of celebrated Edmond and an acclaimed perfumer himself, is using it as the stepping stone for a modern fresh composition, much like he did with classic bergamot in Ellie D a while ago. Even Pierre Montale, more famous for his Westernized Oudh/aloes wood bestsellers among the scentophiles includes it in Crystal Aoud! Not to mention that a whole new niche line, the Romea d’Ameor one (credited to Pierre Bourdon) is utilizing this succulent and polarizing nuance in each and every one of their newest fragrances. Right when every aspiring and fully-fledged perfumista thought of melon as her personal Kryptonite, there it is hiding inside niche flacons now.In order to understand how this happened, let’s take things at the top.
It is not possible to extract an essential oil from melon the fruit, as is the case with many other fruits as well, due to its extremely high percentage of water. Therefore lab techniques such as headspace and aroma-synthesis are employed. Emblematic fragrances of the 1990s contained melon notes through the use of Calone ~the registered commercial name of methylbenzodioxepinone~, a synthesized aroma-chemical that dominated the fragrances of the decade with its aquatic, greenish vibe. In an era that wanted both to distance itself from the vagaries and sybaritism of the carnal 1980s (offering fresh scents as a virtual chastity belt) and to attract the consumer via the top notes (the ones which appear when a fragrance is first sprayed on and therefore the fragrance market’s equivalent of a “money shot”), Calone was gold bullion in molecules’ clothing. A pleiad of bestsellers of the 1990s featured it: New West for Her by Aramis, L’eau d’Issey and Issey Miyake for men, Davidoff Cool Water Woman, Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers, Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman, Hugo Woman, Eden by Cacharel, Escape by Calvin Klein in both the men’s and women’s versions; even the popular Spring Flower by the more exclusive Creed brand.
Notably Jean Claude Ellena rippled the ponds ~literally as well as metaphorically~ with the controversial cantaloupe sprinkled with cold spices of Un Jardin Après la Mousson for Hermès; his daughter Céline followed with Sublime Balkiss for The Different Company (accenting a berry scent), while Bertrand Duchaufour "weaved melon-ness" in the river-like transparency of Fleur de Liane for L'artisan Parfumeur. But that was just the beginning!
But could overexposure to myriads of products with oft-relied-upon melon notes produce olfactory fatigue? In the same article it is indicated that this is what happened in the end: “Finesse brand sales, also featuring a melon-based scent, have dwindled, indicating that the melon note, perhaps, has become too mundane.” [2]
If perfume and cosmetics online communities are any indication of the consumer needs that shape the marketing of tomorrow the ubiquitousness of melon had ran its course ever since the start of the 2000s. So why this sudden resurgence as we are approaching the end of the decade? The renewed popularity of melon began a couple of years ago in the flavors industry: “Among the increasingly popular fresh flavors, cucumber, melon and watermelon — now used in products ranging from yogurts to flavored alcoholic beverages — are becoming key players in the market.” [3]
It is intriguing to witness that the resurgence in fine fragrance is pacing itself in the “niche fragrance” market segment mainly. According to reportage by Emily Taylor for the Australian Lifestyle.yahoo.com: "A niche fragrance is a perfume that is not created to target a wide audience, but is more a haute couture expression of a designer or a brand vision, which usually explores new territories," explains Pierre-Constantin Gueros, French perfumer with dromFragrances. "They are attracting a generation of customers looking for something different - think Giorgio Armani's Armani Privé, Chanel Les Exclusifs, Estée Lauder Private Collection. They represent something new. Fragrance is emotion and consumers want to feel like they have something special." [4]
Niche customers are especially attuned to the history of fragrance and the creative forces behind their latest “jus”. Even though Pierre Bourdon, the father of contemporary men’s fragrances thanks to the perennial Cool Water, is responsible for a cornucopia of melon-y fragrances through the years (Ambre Topkapi for MDCI and Bergamotto Marino for Ferré among them in 2006), the lineage of melon predilection can be traced back to the industry’s enduring icon:
Apart from fine fragrance the choice of melon notes (along with other perceptibly juicy accents such as pineapple and green apple) in hair products has been instrumental to the ubiquitousness of melon in the 1990s. By distancing themselves from the more herbal scents of the 1970s and early 1980s shampoos, the new generation of products (running the gamut from conditionnner to mousse, to gel to pomade) encompassed fruity notes and more specifically melon as the sine qua non of an upbeat, joyful and wholesome shower or salon experience. As stated in Perfumer & Flavorist magazine: “Where the brand’s identity is integral to the product performance, the fragrance is kept as part of its brand identity,” said Carlos Linares, R&D director, Alberto-Culver, noting that while there are some deviations in line extensions, a tie with the original must remain. […] Brand loyalty, he states, to both Tresemme’ and the Nexus salon line means keeping the lines’ fragrances fairly consistent with ingrained consumer expectations. Consumers expect melon notes from Tresemme’ and a sweet coconut amber vanilla fragrance from the Nexus line” [1]
The seed that had been planted in Le Parfum de Thérèse in the 1950s saw a progeny of Titans: Cristalle by Chanel in 1974, Quartz by Molyneux in 1978, Calyx by Prescriptives in 1988, and Knowing by Estée Lauder in 1988. The progression through the numerous cherubic pastel-fruity jellies of the 1990s matured nevertheless in some persistent best-sellers such as J’adore by Dior (1999) which drenched its narcotic blooms in melon-tasting cocktails.
But it was the formal introduction of Le Parfum de Thérèse in 2003 through the Frédérick Malle niche line which kick started the reprised acceptance of melon. Malle collaborated with Dominique Ropion in one of the most successful tuberose fragrances on the planet; Carnal Flower (in 2005) which was also accented by a fresh melon note to evoke the California air whose tuberose and gardenia ambience inspired Malle in the first place. 2007 seemed to herald the return of melon in a big way: Bond No.9 issued the salty hesperidic Coney Island, Missoni launched Aqua composed by Maurice Roucel and even mainstream player Estée Lauder included a cantaloupe accent in their Beautiful Love in 2007, to their classic Beautiful from the 1980s. When there is even historical re-interpretation at play, we know that there is something afoot in the new craze for melon. The Rancé brand launched Eugenie in 2006, reportedly a faithful reworking of a formula created in the late 19th century for the beautiful countess Eugenie de Montijo, the Spanish aristocrat who married Napoléon III and is credited with the introduction of “fashion”. The inclusion of melon amidst other untapped in the time-frame aromata (such as passion fruit and peach) to give a gently girly character hints that melon must be quite popular indeed. And possibly there is a solid reason why. The Asian market share of parfums Hermès being 45% with the remaining half-and-change for the rest of the world [5] might explain the latest aesthetic choices not only in that house’s portfolio but also in other brands’ products when the Asian market with its preference for lighter, fresher scents is opening up to the Western brands of luxe. The response to Asian tastes might be influencing the global luxury market and consequently niche fragrances too.
Like mentioned in the beginning of this article, the seismic shift happened last year with major niche creators choosing melon as the defining brushstroke on their canvas. This time around, melon is rendered through a sleight of hand that excludes Calone and its 1990s fatigué tonalities: Un Jardin après la Mousson doesn’t contain one iota of it and is selling like hot cakes. So the game is played anew! The question is: In the niche meloncholy of a former anathematizer of melon, are you ready to shed your preconceptions?
Notes:
[1] Source: http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fragrance/application/personal/17762099.html
[2] Source: http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fragrance/application/personal/17762099.html
[3] Source: http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/flavor/rawmaterials/natural/2758996.html
[4] Source: http://au.lifestyle.yahoo.com/b/marie-claire/6218/fragrance-guide/
[5] Source: Le Parfum, Jean Claude Ellena, « Que sais-je? », Presses Universitaires de France Sep.2007
Credits:
Bartolomé Esteban Perez Murillo Boys Eating Melon 1645-46 (wikimedia commons)
Juan Sánchez Cotán Membrillo, repollo, melón y pepino (1602) (wikimedia commons)
Melon Ball cocktail (midori-co.uk)
Assorted fragrance bottles supplied and inserted by Editor; Sniffapalooza Magazine
Edmond Roudnitska is probably the one name you simply need to drop if you want to appear as if you have at least a passing knowledge of scent. Of course name dropping is completely ridiculous, especially when used to prove that someone knows anything about anything, but the practice does not diminish the value of this Ukrainian émigré who started as an assistant to Ernest Beaux. Even as early as 1949 with his magnificent fruity chypré Diorama, Roudnitska found a balance between complexity and clear vision that captures several olfactory nuances: spicy, floral, fruity, animalic and all enrobed in a sensual feminine dress. By this time he had began simplifying his palette, making stricter formulae, with a mathematical precision that abandoned notes that served merely for the pleasantry of the senses, like heavy sugary ones, to focus on more spiritual endeavors using purer, strictly “olfactory” notes that aimed at the cerebral rather than the carnal; aiming at elevating scent from the instinct of the reptile cortex into the fully developed Homo Sapiens membranes. Apparently he considered melon one of them! The crystallization of his vision in his “proudest creation” Diorella in 1972 consolidated melon as an accent piece that veers a composition into the sparkling and young-spirited much like thin silver bangles and black leather bracelets can metamorphosize a conservative outfit into something rock-chic.
Guerlain Boutique Fragrances
La Petite Robe Noire
An exercise in style, a masterpiece in fabric, the little black dress is to fashion what fragrance is to Guerlain. While the perfumer dares to mix genres full of refinement, he also has his timeless “little black dress”, with a fruity-floral trail and lovely accessories. La Petite Robe Noire is a celebration of contrasts, between the spiciness of black liquorice and the delicate nature of rose. Sexy, and light as a champagne bubble, the scent features melt-in-your-mouth macaroon, the tang of the Sicilian lemon, a tender almond kiss, and a touch of licorice. An armful of roses adds elegance, while smoked tea and patchouli give it character. And for a soft velvety touch, a caress of Musk and Vanilla. Created by Sylvaine Delacourte & Delphine Jelk.
Retail Price: $150. Available exclusively at the Guerlain Boutiques:
Shalimar EDP Flower Limited Edition
Eau de Shalimar EDT Flower Limited Edition
Shalimar EDP Flower and Eau de Shalimar EDT Flower are limited edition versions of the legendary Shalimar, created to celebrate the most bewitching and sensual note of the classic fragrance: vanilla blossom. Protective of its own rarity, it only blossoms for a few hours at sunrise. In awe of this quiet, intimate moment with vanilla flowers Guerlain set out to capture a second of eternity, etching its blossoms on the Shalimar bottle for two limited editions:
Shalimar EDP Flower Limited Edition- The vanilla blossom on the voluptuous neck of the bottle underscores the perfume’s intensity, then appears in a precious, radiant hallmark - first in midnight blue on the glass of the bottle, then in gold on the packaging which shields its mysterious blossoming from observation. Fragrance created by Jacques Guerlain.
75 ML EDP. Retail Price: $123. Eau de Shalimar EDT Flower Limited Edition- Features a shot of light that throws a white shadow on the surface of the packaging. The fascinating purity of the white flower appears again on the graceful neck of the transparent bottle. Its presence is so provocative that it seems to blossom inside the bottle even as it accents the transparency of its glass house. Fragrance created by Jean Paul Guerlain. 75 ML EDT. Retail Price: $97.
Mon Précieux Nectar
For the woman who relishes being unique and strives to set the trends instead of following them, Guerlain has created an extremely limited fragrance offering appropriately titled Mon Précieux Nectar. Only sixty two women in the world will be privileged to wear this scent, all but ensuring the wearers will never cross paths. Available as one full liter of perfume, the fragrance is floral and gourmand with a head of petitgrain and bitter almond, jasmine and orange blossom at the heart and a base of sensual woods, incense, vanilla and white musk. The mouth-watering and addictive fragrance comes in La Fontaine Impériale, a hand-made crystal fountain with silver-plated refillable atomizer. Created by Sylvaine Dealcourte and Randa Hammami. 1 L Perfume. Retail Price: $9,000.
Launching May 2009: Muguet
April showers bring May flowers and the month of May signals the advent of one of Guerlain’s most anticipated annual scents. Guerlain’s Muguet fragrance is an embodiment of the freshness and loveliness of spring’s arrival, celebrating this season of love and honoring the unique blossoms for which May is known. Featuring an extraction of the essence of lily of the valley for a lively and capricious fragrance, this delicate and penetrating note is immersed in a symphonic heart of jasmine, Turkish rose, lemon and sandalwood. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain. 60 ML EDT. Retail Price: $350.
Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus
Mitsouko by Guerlain was initially launched in1919 after the First World War, during a time when women everywhere were happily rediscovering luxury - jewelry, furs, and especially fragrance. The name Mitsouko is Japanese for “mystery” and was taken from a passionate heroine of Claude Farrere’s bittersweet novel “La
Bataille”, the novel upon which the famed opera “Madame Butterfly” was based. The original masterpiece of Fragrant balance created by Jacques Guerlain, subtly unveils its fruity chypre and is renowned in the industry for its short, simple and refined formula. In celebration of the 90th anniversary of its creation, Jean Paul Guerlain
has developed Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus, a fresh reinterpretation of the fragrance with a special fleur de lotus note. Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus 60 ML EDT. Retail Price : $100.
Guerlain will also unveil a limited, commemorative and numbered edition of just 14 Baccarat “Inverted Heart” Crystal Bottles featuring an original jewel made of pearls. This stunning bottle will house the original Mitsouko Perfume. Mitsouko Baccarat Crystal Perfume 450 ml EDP, Retail Price: $7,500
A Guerlain Boutique is a place where customers can experience Guerlain’s history, style and expertise as well as discover these exclusive and precious creations; only available at a Guerlain Boutique establishment. There are eight Guerlain Boutiques in the United States. To purchase a fragrance, customers can call the Guerlain Boutique at The Shoppes at the Palazzo, Las Vegas – 1-866-409-6110.
Additional Guerlain Boutique locations: Saks Fifth Avenue, New York City / Bergdorf Goodman, New York City/ Waldorf=Astoria, New York City / Neiman Marcus, San Francisco / The Bellagio, Las Vegas / Epcot Center, Orlando / The Breakers, Palm Beach
Award winning IFF Perfumer Clement Gavvary , who co-created Tom Ford’s Black Violet and
collaborated on a number of successful fragrances, including Prada, Prada (2004 Fragrance
Foundation Fifi Award winner); Carolina, Carolina Herrera; Chloe Collection 2005, Chloe;
Eternity Summer, Calvin Klein and Prada Tendre, Prada (2007 Cosmetic Executive Women Award)
was given a free hand and comments, “Creating a beautiful, sophisticated perfume based on those
flowers, with the rose centifolia of Grasse as the main character, has always been a dream of mine.
For me, in this fragrance, the warmth of white ambers added to the floral blend is symbolic of the
Ankh which, in itself, represents love. Love, The Key To Life has allowed me to realize my dream.”
Love, The Key to Life is an aromatic and palpable interpretation of the Ankh – the ancient symbol of eternal existence known as the ‘key of life.’ Intrigued by the Ankh’s powerful legacy, Gerlach combined it with the most powerful emotion – love. Top notes: Egyptian violet leaves,Italian bergamot,black currant buds and pink peppercorn heart notes: Rose Centifolio from Grasse, Jasmine Sambac from India,Ylang Ylang from Madagascar, Tunisian orange flower, Base notes:Virginian Cedarwood, Patchouli from Indonesia, Indian Sandalwood, sheer musk, sultry musk, white amber
This modern, classic, floral-spicy, semi-oriental contains 26.3% essential oils and is perfect for day and evening, all year round. 1.7 fl. oz. / 50 ml
Available at Trunk Show Feb 9-13 Henri Bendel, NY (Special $99 for Valentine's Day, regular $120)
Spafumerie, NY Tel: 212 644-9525 Email: thespa@spafumerie2.com
Perfumer Clement Gavvary
Kristen Michèle
Guerlain's Rose Barbare.
One word. Stunning.
From the L'Art de Matiere Collection, Rose Barbare has captured my heart. A very contemporary and untamable rose, Rose Barbare is beautiful and rebellious, with heady top notes of ottoman rose amid the spontaneous sensuality of fresh honey and chypree notes. If you have not read Chandler Burr's review in the New York Times, view here.
Valentino Rock 'n Rose. A fragrance inspired by the modern woman, who combines a rock 'n roll attitude with style. Rock 'n Rose strikes the perfect balance between edgy and Valentino's elegance and tradition. Notes of Bergamot, Black Currant, Crunch Green, Orange Blossom, Gardenia, Muguet, Rose, Sandalwood, Orris, Musky Notes, Vanilla, Heliotrope. Two versions, both beautiful.
Stella McCartney Stella
A sensuous, this scent pairs feminine notes of rose and peony with juicy mandarin and intense amber for a scent that's both sexy and unmistakably stylish. A fragrance based on the contrast between the freshness and softness of the rose, and the dark sensuality of amber. Notes:Rose, Peony Flower, Mandarin, Rose Absolute, Amber.
Annick Goutal Rose Absolue. A bouquet of the most beautiful and noblest roses. Roses from May, Turkey, Bulgaria, Damascus, Egypt and Morocco. A deep and powdery fragrance that gives the impression of standing in a rose garden. Annick Goutal chose to create this perfume for her own pleasure. Made in a floral compsoition from six kinds of rose. Seductive scents of rose de Mai, Turkish rose, Bulgarian rose, Damask rose, Egyptian and Moroccan.
Lancome Mille et Une Rose- The rose of "blue juice". Launched by the design house of Lancome, MILLE & UNE ROSES by Lancome is classified as a flowery fragrance. A ‘blue’, ambery rose This feminine scent blends Absolute Damascus Rose with Ambrette and a modern amber note.
E. Coudray Jacinthe et Rose
A very fresh rose that smells like a summer breeze. A light floral fragrance that combines the sharp, green scent of spring hyacinths with the sweetness of the summer rose. Top notes: bigarade, hyacinth, vineyard, peach - Middle notes: rose, peony, orange blossom, jasmine, ylang ylang - Bottom notes: cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, musk. Hard to find in America now, best bet is Les Senteurs in the UK where shipping is fast.
Editions Frédéric Malle Une Rose
Applying the slogan, “Fragrance without compromise”, Frédéric Malle’s collection of highly crafted and exceptional perfumes; each of which bears the name of the creator on the bottle. All of the fragrances have been formulated by those whom Malle considers to be the top ‘noses’ in the world. Edouard Fléchier’s “nose” led him to international acclaim following years of study at Roure Bertrand Dupont's Ecole de Parfumerie. His Une Rose fragrance for Frédéric Malle is his first rose-scented creation. Une Rose is said to have set new grounds, combining the floral burst of the bloom with the more dirty depths of its roots, injected with geranium and wine dregs. The intoxicating notes of Turkish Rose Absolute finish with a sensual and earthy black truffle accord which reminds many of the essence of a rose garden.
Yves Saint Laurent Paris.
I recently revisited Paris because of Michael Edwards and the workshop that he conducted in New York City. Smelling Paris again was like visiting an old friend and I learned to let go of my "judgements" of what I considered to be a "big eighties and blowsy fragrance" It is simply a beautiful fragrance. It is said that Yves Saint Laurent was an incurable romantic and that he created Paris in a dedication to the city of inspiration and love. Paris by YSL is a perfect orchestration of 232 notes. This feminine scent possesses notes of Rose, Hawthorn, Mimosa, Violet, Sandalwood, Moss, Iris, Amber and Musk. Most definitely worth a revisit. Thanks to Michael Edwards for opening my eyes to the beauty of the notes.
Robert Piguet Baghari. Aurélien Guichard, a young master perfumer who is part of Givaudan in Paris, undertook the delicate process of adapting Baghari’s original formula and created a modern classic fragrance that is destined to last forever. A bouquet of rose, jasmine, iris and fresh citrus is blended with powdery amber and natural vanilla. Baghari is so enchanting that this has now become a staple of my "Fragrance Library"
Yves Rocher Rose Absolute
The world's most afforable rose fragrance and very beautiful. The Secrets d' Essences rose is a multi-faceted rose born from the union of two rosa damascena absolutes: Bulgarian and Turkish rose absolute, combined with Moroccan rose absolute, sensual and voluptuous. A Floral Oriental Woody wit added notes of Cinnamon, Tonka bean and Patchouli.
Everything in the Les Parfums de Rosine line is extremely appealing. Ecume de Rose is a surprisingly romantic, deep and light perfume, where the fresh note of the rose is delicately mixed with sea spray and sand flowers. A savage, wild rose that is inspired by the dune rose bushes.
I secretly call this my "Mermaid Rose". Olfactory family is Marine, Floral. Notes of Blackcurrant leaf, Sea lily with heart notes of Dune roses, Artemisia, Rose Attar and Rose Absolue with base note of Vetiver, Ambergis, White musk.
Another stunner....
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Eté
Rose d’Eté is the perfect yellow rose in full bloom...just one of my "happy" summer favorites. Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Ete belongs to the olfactory family of fresh and loral.Beautiful accord of roses and lime trees flowers, Galbanum, Green apple, Bergamot, Yellow rose, Lime tree flowers, Mimosa, Lotus, Ambrette seeds, and Musk. samples and website
Bond No. 9 West Side. Bond No. 9 is a seduction of floral accords of intoxicating rose along with ylang-ylang and peony, the heart is warm with sandalwood and amber. Soft and warm vanilla and musk form the base. Unisex.
"A melodious full-bodied coloratura perfume, with dark-light, high-low, sweet-sharp floral and woody notes."
Bond. No 9 and Saks
The Simple Pleasures in Life. Dazzle her with the Estée Lauder pleasures Simple Treasures fragrance gift set wrapped in the exclusive, stylish Valentine’s Day inspired box. This whimsical, lively fragrance comes in a trio of products to evoke all of the senses and includes a 3.4oz Eau de Parfum Spray, 2.5 oz Body Lotion and 1oz Perfumed Body Powder.
Every Girl Loves a Little Sparkle. The Amythyst Treasure Powder Compact is exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue and is filled with Re-Nutriv Intensive Comfort Pressed Powder for a flawless, glowing finish on-the-go. This compact is sure to light up every makeup bag, making her feel glamorous and thinking of you each time she uses it. Amethyst Treasure (Exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue)$175.00
October 18, 2008
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City
In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House : The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine. The House sizzles in this issue.
We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian by Michelyn Camen, Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel, Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses, Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room and a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead and finally a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.
Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more. Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances and interviews.
Each article is full of photographs, so scroll down, click away, have fun and welcome to this special issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine Fall Ball.
Aurélien Guichard
Dr. Avery Gilbert
Thierry Wasser
November 9, 2008
In this issue we feature the finale of the spectacular must read series titled Burning Down the House: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz ‘Les Christophes’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances. The House continues to sizzle in this issue. We offer a warm welcome to Nathan Branch with his new article How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Unisex Fragrance or "Gee, You Smell Terrific!", release from CREED - ‘LES FLORALIES’ which debuts in December, new series debuts with Under the Radar: Cereus Pour Homme and Pour Femme and features an Exclusive Interview with Bill Rosenbaum, President, CB I Hate Perfume: Burning Leaves Autumnal Magic by Michael W. Davis, Pacifica Holiday Gifts Holiday 2008 Guide, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part One- BURN Candles, Saint Parfum Authentic Parfumeur and Amourelle Paris and NEC-scent-SARY Luxuries By Michelyn Camen, we introduce MUSIsCent, the first perfumed Album from musician Laurent Assoulen.
Sniffapalooza Magazine also Interviews Kedra Hart of Opus Oils, a fascinating look into her life and fragrances. We share with you an upcoming event in New York City featuring Chandler Burr from the New York Times and we are extremely proud to debut a new fragrance from Parfums Mercedes exclusive at Lucky Scent. Cathy Gins of Aromawear shares holiday information and a great idea for perfumistas and Juvy Santos enchants us with her "Sniffapalooza-thon" of the Fall Ball. We finish this issue with a link to many wonderful photographs from the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball from photographer and friend Michael Friedlander.
If you missed the huge Sniffapalooza Magazine FALL BALL NEW YORK CITY issue, full of exclusive photographs, reviews, article and interviews; you can view it in it's entirety. Please note that we have gone to a new format/layout for your viewing pleasure so please click on each section to view full page and each article.
Marie-Helene Rogeon
December 15, 2008
In this issue we feature "Fragrance for the Designated Driver: ‘Spritzers’ That Leave Us Giddy" , we welcome a new guest contributor, Elena Vosnaki features a in-depth article "Jean Claude Ellena Is All About The Dirt!", "A Holiday Treat, an interview with the incomparable Monsieur Olivier Creed , "A Tale of Two Cities: Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne" By Michael W. Davis and we feature the continuing series UNDER THE RADAR: Red Flower; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Founder and Owner, Yael Alkalay.
We continue this issue with Voluspa Floraison Collection: The Fragrances of Luxurious and Faraway Places a new Bond No. 9 release called Boca, Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview the well-known Dominique Dubrana; Composer Perfumer of the Italian company La Via del Profumo, we offer a very warm welcome to John E. Smith, an author and herbalist with his article "Attars -Fragrances Of The Soul" and Bergdorf Blends Ajne for Blokes and finally, we end with my favorite "Christmas Present Fragrant Picks". We close out this issue with some photographs from the Sniffapalooza Holiday Fete last weekend in New York City with Michael Edwards and watch for our exclusive interview coming soon!
Jean Claude Ellena
Monsieur Olivier Creed
Parfums des Beaux Arts, LLC fine art fragrance
A Gallery of Masterpieces
When I looked up the word "Fine Art" on the internet, I saw different variations of the meaning but the best definition comes from wordnet.princeton.edu and it states art: the products of human creativity; works of art collectively; “an art exhibition”, “a fine collection of art”.
This definition couldn’t be further from the truth when it comes to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, who is a Perfumer, Creator, Certified Aromatherapist and Painter. Dawn is the mastermind behind Parfums des Beaux Arts, LLC fine art collection that has aesthetics, history and is a divine work of art wrapped in each bottle.
These fragrance collections should be guarded by a velvet rope to be viewed and admired and placed in the center of the Musee du Louvre (Louvre Museum) in Paris, France. Each collection is of precise historical research and of individual artistic persuasion dating back to the days of ancient Egypt.
Dawn is originally from Dover Plains, New York and attended art school at Boston University
to become a painter. She studied art based on the “renaissance method” and I could not help
but to think about Jean-Honore’ Fragonard (April 5, 1732-August 22, 1806) a French painter
and printmaker born in Grasse, Alpes- Maritimes who produced more than 550 paintings
(not counting drawings and etchings).
The house of Fragonard perfumery was born out of respect to Mr. Fragonard and his
son famous Rococo painter, Jean-Honore’ Fragonard in 1926.
Dawn, affectionally known as DSH by her loyal followers created a library of over
10,000 fragrance files during her career and is best known under the house of Parfums
des Beaux Arts with the Limited Editions by Parfums des Beaux Arts, Perfection Connoisseur
Fragrances & Les Rouges, DSH New Creations, Your Perfect Day Wedding Fragrances
(for men and women) and in 2008 Essence Studio made its grand opening in Boulder, Colorado.
Essence Studio is a new aroma design studio and storefront. It can be described as
part vintage scent parlor and part modern art studio. It specializes in artisan (handmade)
perfumes, natural perfumes, aromatherapy scents and preparations as well as organic
bath & body care, essential oils and vintage-inspired perfume specialties.
Dawn has been working with aromatics for the past 17 years and has developed innovative scents and as of January 2009, added her newest Limited Edition Collection of ‘Aroma-Colors’.
So when I think of a great artist such as Mr.Fragonard and his son, Claude Monet, Michelangelo and I cannot help but to think of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz in the same category. She defines what fine art truly should be. This is what Dawn had to say during in a conversation. “I will say that making perfume and making visual art has always been the same ‘in my mind’ and I apply the same artistic /aesthetic principles to each“.
The fans of Parfums des Beaux Arts are privy to a rare collection of museum quality fragrances but if you have not been to the studio, here is your chance to make history because Parfums des Beaux Arts, LLC fine art fragrance is surely to become the Museum of Parfums de Beaux Arts to visitors near and far.
Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz coming soon...
Keiko Mecheri's Mogador. This fragrance is a highly distinctive rose and Keiko Mecheri is known for as her obsession with the power of scent to evoke emotion. This fragrance evokes the sensuality of the majestic rose in one fragrance featuring three types of legendary flower: Turkish, Bulgarian, and Dades.
The new bottle, shown here is only available at Lucky Scent
Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie is a gorgeous and beautiful fragrance made from the rarest Bulgarian rose essences with ambergris and musk to provide depth and tenacity. Currently, Bulgarian Roses cost over a thousand dollars per ounce due to their rarity. Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie is based on a perfume created by Creed in the nineteenth century for Queen Victoria but is definitely not old fashioned. This fragrance always garners mystical compliments, it carries a special and magical aura for me. It's scent is timeless. One of my top ten.
Also available at Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Ave counters.
Amouage Lyric Woman
Lyric Woman is a new modern classic and is described as a "deliciously dramatic fragrance, inspired by the poetic beauty of that most iconic of fragrance notes – the rose."
Lyric Woman is complex in which deep, smoky rose takes center-stage in the heart, with the addition of rich floral notes of geranium, jasmine and orris. The spiciness of cinnamon, cardamom and ginger in the top notes lifts the fragrance, while the base is made up of Amouage's stunning frankincense and wood notes. Darkly intense and and very unusual.
"When all of the flower ladies want back
what they have lent you
And the smell of their roses does not remain... Won't you come see me,
Queen Jane?"
--Bob Dylan, "Queen Jane Approximately"
Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La Rose. Some describe this a "dirty green rose". This is Serge Lutens’s ode to the Queen of flowers. Sa Majesté La Rose is another stunning rose and ultimate seductress, a rose of fresh dew resting on rose petals. Notes of Moroccan rose absolute, gaiac wood, clove, white honey and musk. Another stunner which blooms on the skin in the heat. One of my favorite reviews of Sa Majesté La Rose was by Theresa Duncan.
Téo Cabanel Oha
Oha is the enchanting floral chypre. Voluptuous roses from Bulgaria and Morocco, Jasmine and Cardamom. Oha luxuriates in the captivating notes notes of vanilla, iris, tonka bean and exotic woods lifted by a note of white musk, Vanilla and Iris. Henri Bendel USA only, the whole Téo Cabanel line is absolutely stunning and strangely addictive. "Very French"
I adore rose fragrances. The Rose is the sacred incarnation of femininity and has an incredible metaphysical history. Each of my roses has it's own special siren song that calls to me...of course I cannot name all of the favorites and there are so many that I have never tried. The following is in no particular order. For a comprehensive list of rose fragrances, if you have not yet seen it, please visit Roses and More Roses.
