October 7, 2007
Fall is Fragrant!
PART ONE. This issue is so big that I cannot list all the titles as I normally am able to do.
This issue is part one and is devoted to the upcoming fragrance extravaganza of the world,
the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball! The Guest Artists this year are spectacular for the event in
New York City, Oct 20 & 21, 2007. In this issue you will find many articles, all pertaining
to the special events of Fall Ball. For Bond. No 9 fans, we have reviews of the new
(to be released Dec1.) For upcoming Chandler Burr "Scent Dinner" information,
you will find it all here.
The Fall Ball is the biggest yet for Sniffapalooza and the full schedule is listed far below.
Everyone is in a frenzy of excitement, including me.
Bellissimo! Welcome to Sniffapalooza Magazine, where we celebrate all things fragrant.
Bond No. 9 - Sak's Fifth Avenue for Her Bond No. 9 - Sak's Fifth Avenue for Him
Four Reviews of the new fragrance.
We were so crazy about the new scent coming from Bond No. 9
and Saks Fifth Avenue that we will be running reviews all month-
By Christine Lewandowski
Laurice Rahme of Bond No. 9 fame has released the next of its New York scents.
This release marks the first time Bond No. 9 has created a scent for a well
known shopping landmark: Saks Fifth Avenue, which, could arguably be a New York
neighborhood in and of itself.
Here is an excerpt from the press release:
“Saks Fifth Avenue for Her signals the return of the classic gardenia eau de
parfum, given a chic contemporary twist with the addition of sparkling jasmine and vetiver,
along with smooth vanilla. This all-white bouquet captures the fashion-forward
essence of 21st century Saks, while at the same time expressing the eclectic
downtown spirit of NoHo-based Bond No. 9.”
Before analyzing the scent, let me share with you my impressions.
Here in my mind, a stage is set with sultry lighting, lots of lush fabric, the feeling is opulent. Enter Billy Holiday, stage right. Enter Veronica Lake, stage left.
Without a doubt, their presence is a tangible force in the room. They walk, pout, chat to someone they pass…they exist in the moment. As an observer, you enjoy the sight, the sound, the aroma of them. It is as if the rest of the room has fallen away. Only you and the stunning women have substance. You watch but do not presume to engage them. All too soon, the song ends, the room is empty, the women you experienced are gone. The only proof that they were ever even there is the lingering scent of gardenia.
These are my first impressions of Saks Fifth Avenue for Her. The fragrance evokes a presence, an image of classic femininity from another era. The first and most prominent note is a rich gardenia. I am not a scientist but I would think that this would be a difficult note to work with. It could so easily be overdone and the outcome would not be pleasant. Nothing could be further from the truth with Saks Fifth Avenue for Her. The gardenia is exceptionally well done and although jasmine is one of the ingredients, I would not consider this a jasmine perfume. Instead, the jasmine and vetiver, which is not a white flower by the way, provide a seamless structure, melding top to base. Vetiver is an excellent choice to blend with jasmine: where vetiver is “calming” , jasmine is “relaxing and emotionally warming” . Now, I do not presume to know if the contents are essential oils or fragrance oils. However, it is obvious that the creators selected the notes with some knowledge of aromatherapy. Pure gardenia absolute is available and the other listed ingredients are available as essential oils. Having experienced this fragrance, whatever the oil composition, the ingredients smell expensive. Unfortunately, there is no escaping the obligatory vanilla note. Here, at least, I do not find the vanilla overpowering.
Overall, Saks Fifth Avenue for Her is a promising addition to the Bond No 9 library. I can imagine it will become a signature scent for anyone who appreciates a well-constructed, memorable fragrance. Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue for Her is memorable because, if you choose to wear it, you will be remembered by anyone who encounters you and your sillage. Be prepared to tell the curious what you are wearing and to be remembered, but in a good way, a very good way.
Davis, Patricia, “Aromatherapy An A-Z”, page 342. The C.W. Daniel Company Limited, 1993
Ibid, page 188
Saks Fifth Avenue for Her
By Kathy Patterson
Notes: jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, vetiver, vanilla
This is not your grandmother’s gardenia perfume! The first of two fragrances commissioned by venerable New York fashion institution Saks Fifth Avenue, Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue for Her opens with notes of jasmine and tuberose. The gardenia, supreme queen of white flowers, becomes evident within a minute or so of this largely linear fragrance. The effect of this triple whammy of all white is intense. Elegantly so. White floral fragrances, particularly a powerhouse combination like this, can be overwhelming, and for some more sensitive people, headache-inducing. Bond’s genius of adding a dash of earthy vetiver and sweet vanilla keep this luxurious new scent grounded. The result is a gorgeously creamy and warm floral with an underlying tropical quality reminiscent of coconut cream. The drydown retains all of the gorgeous heady quality, but speaks more in a whisper.
Saks Fifth Avenue for Him
by Kathy Patterson
Notes: chili, black pepper, cardamom, bergamot, incense, guaiac wood, amber
Initially, Saks Fifth Avenue for Him is all about a bright bergamot note dancing among spices. There’s a bit of pepperiness, more black pepper than chili, and combined with the sharp yet warm sweetness of cardamom, it lends depth to the opening notes of this scent. The pepper/cardamom gives way, quite seamlessly, to incense and the delicious resinous quality of guaiac wood. There’s a bit of bitter sweetness in here too, almost licorice-like in quality. Several minutes into the drydown, a soft amber note is detectable.
Merely reading the notes would give the impression that this scent is a spicy woodsy fragrance, however, it is actually strongly aquatic. All of the pepper and incense seem to be submerged in a cool blue-green quality that floats somewhere just above the skin. It’s only when one takes a deeper sniff that the other elements make themselves known.
Bond No. 9 Sak's Fifth Avenue for Her
by Juvy Santos
It's...stunning.
I'm not sure what I expected, in a year full of other, notable white-floral, gardenia-based fragrance launches. I certainly didn't expect it to wow me, no, not in any sense of the word. But Saks for Her distinguished itself almost immediately from the run of other gardenia based scents, in much the same way my other gardenia-love, Stephanie, does.
Only a true gardenia at the outside, far creamier than its sister of similar distribution, Estee Lauder Private Collection. Not very green. The initial blast is classic white floral bouquet--creamy and slightly tropical, rounded out by the effervescence of jasmine. But within moments, the triumvirate of tuberose/gardenia/jasmine gives way to an interplay with an almost woodsy vanilla. And there it stays, a deceptively simple scent. A white flower bouquet morphing into an earthy, rooty, yet comforting base. The drydown lasts for quite some time, relatively linear after the top notes fade. For me, it's almost a comfort scent rather than a glamorous scent--something about the grounded quality of the vanilla/vetiver base keeps this from sending me off into flights of fancy of red carpets and decollete. But it delivers, amply. This fragrance is lush, deep, and a particularly likeable rendition of the white floral bouquet.
Bond No. 9 Sak's Fifth Avenue for Her
By Amber Gibson
For all the perfume lovers who love Bond no. 9's fragrances, Saks Fifth Avenue "For Her" will not disappoint. The gardenia scent is very uplifting and classy, the perfect scent to represent Saks Fifth Avenue. The gardenia comes through very clearly, but is not overwhelming.
Notes of jasmine and vanilla add a an underlying touch of sophisication to this elegant floral scent. The scent does not go on strong, but with a subtlety so natural that I began to think that I just naturally smelled this good! While I was worried that the fragrance would fade throughout the day, Saks Fifth Avenue "For Her" has been lingering on my wrists all day.
Bond No. 9's new "For Her" fragrance comes out on the 1st of September and it is definitely worth the wait!
Ineke
Appearing at Bergdorf Goodman - opportunity for small group discussions with the creator and perfumer, Ineke Ruhland
At Takashimaya, Ineke will be doing a special hands-on presentation on components of her fragrances and how they get combined together into the top, middle and base notes.
Ineke Rühland is a professional nose creating original fragrances in her independent studio in San Francisco. Born and educated in Canada, she moved to Europe in 1988 to embark on a career in the fragrance industry. After working in the Netherlands, England and France, she became fluent in three languages (English, French and Dutch) and cultivated a love for creating complex and original scents along the way. While living in France, Ineke completed her formal perfumery studies at ISIPCA, the only university-level perfumery school in the world. She honed her traditional perfumery techniques with sojourns to Grasse, the city that spawned perfumery in France. Culminating her studies in Paris, where she still resides for part of the year, Ineke apprenticed at an esteemed fragrance house for three years before moving to San Francisco and eventually launching her own line in the summer of 2006. As one of a small number of classically-trained perfumers in the world, Ineke uses a time-honored approach to developing new scents. In her perfumery studio, she uses notes such as lilac, magnolia and peony for her eau de parfums. An enthusiastic gardener, she also derives inspiration from her collection of rare scented botanicals. Her passion for literature, design and the arts are reflected in every bottle. Through original photos, beautiful artwork and snippets of verse, Ineke crafts an intimate story for each scent. With four fragrances to date, the Ineke line caters to those with a sophisticated appreciation for unique fragrance.
For Canadian-born perfumer, Ineke Rühland, her eponymous fragrance line symbolizes her natural joie de vivre for perfume, design, art and literature. Indeed, her fragrances live up to that spirit. The Ineke fragrance line is refreshing and imaginative, provoking your senses with its mixed-media stories. Using lyrical titles that evoke stories of romance, nature, chemistry and courage, Ineke fragrances are rooted in her perfumery education and apprenticeship in France. The first four scents in the alphabetized collection are:
After My Own Heart - A romantic reflection on finding yourself in a place that feels just right. This scent is inspired by the romantic and wistful lilac flower, which to Ineke is the forgotten flower of perfumery.
Balmy Days & Sundays - A perfume about perfect moments on a relaxing Sunday; lying in the grass, breathing the smells of sweet scented flowers and fragrant leaves.
Chemical Bonding - Playfully juxtaposing Chemistry 101 principles with human attraction, this scent combines a bright citrus opening with a powdery soft base, resulting in a flirtatious alchemy.
Derring-Do - A darkly romantic fragrance for men evoking spring rain, this is an ode to the literary rogue. Derring-Do is the Old English term for daring, with its requisite chivalry.
Mark David: Can you tell me briefly about yourself, your Product Line, and its History?
I’m a classically-trained perfumer based in San Francisco with two nationalities: Dutch and Canadian. My introduction to the world of perfume was on the supply side, working for Quest (now Givaudan) in Europe for 12 years before moving to San Francisco. While working for Quest’s fine fragrance office in Paris, I took a two-year leave to study at ISIPCA, the perfumery school in Versailles. I launched my line of four eau de parfums in August 2006 at Bergdorf Goodman in New York and Fred Segal in Los Angeles. My line is now also available at Takashimaya in New York. My fragrances follow an abecedary (alphabetical) pattern and, although I launched A to D at one time, I intend add one new fragrance per year hereafter.
Mark David: As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting?
My biggest inspirations are nature and popular culture. I’m an enthusiastic gardener, and have a scented plant theme in the garden. I’ve collected a lot of books on the subject, and I also try to visit botanical gardens whenever I’m in a new city. In terms of popular culture, I’m known as the “magazine queen” at home, with out-of-control stacks around the house. I think my fragrances are quite current, rather than being based on historical structures or materials. In terms of keeping it fresh, I’m still such a freshman that it hasn’t yet been a problem. I have lots of ideas and directions that I still want to explore, so I can’t see it becoming an issue for quite a few years. I hope to be versatile enough to eventually offer a range of perfumes that’s diverse enough to appeal to a broad swath of perfume lovers.
Mark David: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall’s event?
I am very curious to meet these people who are so mad about perfumes. I think it’s a really unique group of people, and will be unlike the general public who are often quite blasé about fragrance. I intend to bring along some raw materials in case there are people interested in the building blocks of my fragrances.
Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you think makes them register with people?
The popularity of each fragrance varies by store, region and country. For example, the best seller in the UK is Balmy Days & Sundays, in France it is Derring-Do, and in the USA it is After My Own Heart. What I’ve found is that fragrance preference is so individual that there isn’t really a single thing that makes them register with people. I’ve had several “fans” of certain of my perfumes write me via our website to tell me what it evokes for them, and it’s always different! I’m just really happy when someone can connect to one of my fragrances, even though it’s often for reasons I didn’t foresee or intend when I created them.
Mark David: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves – it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product Release department?
My “E” fragrance, called “Evening Edged in Gold” is coming out in a couple of months. The fragrance and the visual design are completed, and we’re just waiting for some packaging components to arrive (slowly on a boat from France). It would be classified as a “woody oriental” in fragrance industry parlance, and contains some night-blooming flowers that we grow in our garden in San Francisco. I may have a small sample in my pocket for those interested in having a sniff.
During the morning I’ll be at Bergdorf Goodman, where my fragrances are sold on the 5th Floor, Bergdorf’s contemporary floor. It won’t be accessible until the store opens at 10:00 am, but I hope the Sniffapalooza community thinks of heading up there. 5F is Bergdorf’s young and fun floor, with great fashion and accessories brands like Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney, a café and a fragrance outpost with a small selection of their “younger” lines, including mine. If you miss me at Bergdorf Goodman, I’ll also be at Takashimaya on Saturday afternoon, where I’ll bring along some raw materials for people who are interested in how fragrances are constructed. I look forward to meeting the Sniffapalooza group!
Thank you so very much and we look forward to meeting you and your fragrances at Sniffapalooza's Fall Ball! www.ineke.com
Guerlain - Bergdorf Goodman's Sniffapalooza
Mark D'AVIRRO and Jason Beers will present the lastest releases.
COLOGNE DU 68
Some 153 years after Impériale Eau de Cologne earned Guerlain the title of
Exclusive Perfumer to the Emperor, Guerlain is once again throwing itself
into an eau de cologne venture. Forget nostalgia, this is in no way reminiscent
of gentlemanly eau de cologne as it was designed in the 19th century,
for Eau de Cologne 68 likes to fuel a love of paradox.
First of all, in the name which evokes the address of the Guerlain empire,
but in a shortened form that is likely to appeal to regulars at the Champs-Elysées
flagship!
A paradox also in the packaging design. A beautiful, tall minimalist bottle with
clean lines that seem to be reaching for infinity. An ambivalent sobriety in
which the false simplicity of the bottle boldly sports a superb Macassar ebony
stopper the top of which is decorated with a silver-plated metal plate engraved
with the double G. The whole thing is carefully wrapped in kraft paper. A long
time ago in the Guerlain perfume laboratories, the same kind of paper was stuck
onto nicely rounded demijohns to protect the precious natural raw materials
from the light.
A further paradox lies in the sophistication of a unisex product. He or she, him
and her, Cologne du 68 shatters the traditional mould. The “second sex” disappears in the mists of time and makes way for equality, at least on the surface.
The fragrance itself has an element of paradox. Being both fresh and spicy, a first in the history of Eau de Cologne, it will win hearts with its ultra-modern facets, nonetheless imprinted with the values of originality and quality cherished by the brand. This contrast between warmth and cold is represented by a very precise choice of the raw materials used in the composition. The final paradox is that Cologne du 68 lasts! Its extraordinary persistence contradicts the statement that eau de Cologne, by definition, has a fresh but short-lived scent.
The talent of Sophie Labbé takes us on a sumptuous, astonishing journey through the finest raw materials gathered from all over the world. The journey begins in the Hesperides where green mandarin and Italian petitgrain citronnier blend wonderfully with Mexican sweet lime, Chinese star anise and Italian cypress. The freshness persists and quickly intensifies with sharp accents of Russian coriander and Guatemalan cardamom. Then comes orange blossom picked with meticulous care in Tunisia. Its sunny facets entice voluptuous ginger conjuring up the heat of India, juxtaposed with accents of Chinese magnolia lightly dusted with Indonesian pepper. A new kind of bliss emerges from the sensual waves of Yugoslavian everlasting, so rare in perfume, whose skin-like accents harmonise with the recognisable scent of Hawaiian vetiver which, for the occasion, rubs shoulders with African opoponax and American cedar.
Available: November 2007 in Guerlain Boutiques in Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus San Francisco, Epcot Orlando and The Breakers West Palm Beach
QUAND VIENT LA PLUIE
This fragrance is a true work of art created by the talented perfumers,
Thierry Wasser and Sylvaine Delacourte. Inspired by nature,
Quand vient la pluie means “when the first raindrops begin to fall.”
Aromatic and floral, its frosty rosemary and delicate orange blossom
combines with intense bergamot orange. Then, as the first raindrops
begin to fall, with them rises the fragrant scent of blossoming summer
flowers including heliotrope, violet and jasmine. Just as the sun soon
reappears after a summer storm, the fragrance releases amber-based
accents and praline.
The absolutely sublime bottle was designed by Serge Mansau.
A glass crystal sculpture in the form of a drop of rain contains
the perfume, displayed on a base adorned with a leaf.
An ultra-luxurious and exclusive limited edition, the beautiful
reflections of this Perfume bottle blend with a delicately frosted
Swarovski crystal.
OLFACTORY PYRAMID: Fresh, powdery and amber-based this
fragrance is available in an Eau de Parfum and Extract
SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE
If a colour or fragrance were to be
associated with each day, like the
planets were in ancient times,
sandalwood would be the Sun,
saffron would be Jupiter, and
without doubt vanilla would be Venus.
JEAN-PAUL GUERLAIN
Vanilla has always been a voyager at
Guerlain. It has been present throughout
Guerlain’s history, appearing in many
guises in perfumes as well as eaux de
toilette; it is a note that is unexpected
in Jicky, subtle in Eau Hégémonienne
and lavish in Shalimar. Above all vanilla
has a majestic presence in Guerlain’s
signature accord, Guerlinade, which
can be found in all the perfume house’s
great creations.
Who could best express the extraordinary magic of this vanilla in a perfume? The purebred black vanilla pod that grows on tropical islands, with its unexpected and contrasting aromas? A creative perfumer with a trained nose; a gourmet with refined taste buds who is familiar with its every subtlety – Jean-Paul Guerlain.
Thanks to Guerlinade of course, but also using his own vanilla plantation in Mayotte, not far from his ylang-ylang plantation.Two raw materials of which he is exceptionally fond.
To understand this Limited Edition Spiritueuse Double Vanille, you must first linger over the
name. Spiritueuse? Yes, like a liqueur… on the skin. Exhilarating, compelling. Double Vanille? It could just as well have been called triple; it has such resonance, like an echo rebounding off the other notes in the composition. Finally, it is as much a “taste” as an “aroma”, to be experienced not just once, but twice or three times, discovering a different aspect each time.A single vanilla pod is already a whole perfume in itself. Its many facets were the source of inspiration for Jean-Paul Guerlain’s accord. For instance, vanilla has a spicy aspect, far removed from any sweet and childlike sentimentality.Thus, in the top note, slightly piquant and fruity pink peppercorns play with the fresh bergamot that instantly lightens the composition. Alongside the spices, you can very quickly sense a soft, resinous and woody note interpreted by incense which lingers at the top, giving way to cedar, a key element of the middle note, illustrating the woody aspect of the vanilla pod. Dry and elegant, with a dash of skittishness, this is the “backbone” of the fragrance, giving it its character. The flowers, Bulgarian rose and ylang-ylang from the Comoros islands add a feminine touch that fur ther accentuates the refinement of the wood to create an effective contrast. Then comes a base accord with the aphrodisiac sensuality of vanilla underscored by benzoin that keeps the resinous top notes of incense and spices alive. Spiritueuse Double Vanille is a truly amazing composition in which each component conjures up the image of a boat journey, and the combined scent of the ship’s wooden hull with barrels of rum and crates of spices. It is also the olfactory notebook of an explorer, documenting the finest scents from the ends of the earth. The bottle recalls the historical link between Guerlain and vanilla. The label sparks off nostalgia for distant treasures and tells the full story of vanilla. As a finishing touch, the bee, Guerlain’s symbol since 1853, with Eau de Cologne Impériale, embodies the transformation from the flower of the orchid into its fruit: the vanilla pod, for it was originally the Melipona bee that pollinated the flower before the process began to be done by hand.
INTERVIEW WITH SYLVAINE DELACOURTE AND PIERRE HERMÉ
How is vanilla used in your two different worlds?
Sylvaine Delacourte: At Guerlain, vanilla is considered as an elegant ingredient above all else. It is always rendered to extremely high standards and is used in many of our perfumes. It is a key feature in “Guerlinade”, a compilation of Guerlain’s favourite raw materials, which include tonka bean, coumarin, sandalwood and ylang-ylang.This olfactory signature gives our perfumes depth, and imprints them in our memories. If I were to compare vanilla to a woman, I would say that it is not a classic beauty of simple regular features, but rather that her face shows a great deal of character.
Pierre Hermé: In my profession, vanilla is the base ingredient.You might even call it the baker’s “base note”.This is why working on the theme of vanilla immediately appealed to me. I don’t have a taste signature as such, but rather a style, using distinctive and contrasting flavours. I like to surprise the palate, because this is part of the pleasure of savouring food.
Are the same types of vanilla used in both perfumery and in baking?
Sylvaine Delacourte: There are two botanical species, Vanilla tahitensis and Vanilla planifolia. We usually use the latter as it has more nuances and is richer in flavour. It often comes from the Comoros islands or Tahiti.To intensify the trail of a fragrance, we combine the vanilla (in the form of tincture, absolute and super absolute) with one of its principal aromatic components, vanillin or ethyl vanillin. These raw materials enhance the natural products and give the perfume a true fragrant trail.
Pierre Hermé: I use both species, but I vary their origins to create a special “house” vanilla. My favourite three are those fromTahiti, Mexico and Madagascar.
You are both experts in your respective fields, where do their similarities lie?
Sylvaine Delacourte: First of all, smelling and tasting require training and practice. Great concentration is needed to perceive the subtleties of a creation. In both cases the ability to hold them in one’s memory plays an important role. Furthermore, taste and smell complement one another. For example, a vanilla from Madagascar reveals slightly smoky, almost leathery aromas and is subtly woody on the palate.
Pierre Hermé: Sylvaine is right, and this is probably the reason why I always smell before I taste. I often ask the opinion of a perfumer friend when choosing my vanillas.Another similarity is that the flavours of a pastry develop in the mouth just as a perfume does on the skin. For my house vanilla composition, I chose Tahitian vanilla, which has a roundness to it and lingers in the mouth, this is like the base note.Then I add Mexican vanilla, which is more floral and can be seen as the heart of the flavour. Finally, I include the light woody Madagascan vanilla which binds the other two together.
Sylvaine Delacourte: You make what we call in perfumery a “communelle” which involves selecting ingredients from different sources in order to create a rich and balanced accord.We do this for many of our natural materials, including vanilla. These communelles enable us to guarantee the constant quality of ingredients between different harvests, which is very important for Guerlain.
Pierre Hermé, how did you take inspiration from the Spiritueuse Double Vanille to create your macaroons?
It was the delicacy of the various facets of “Spiritueuse” that inspired me. I cloaked my vanilla
accord with cedar so that the two flavours reveal themselves almost simultaneously in the
mouth. It is important that neither flavour supplant the other and as you will notice in the
fragrance, I added a soupcon of rum.
SHALIMAR BLACK MYSTERY HOLIDAY 2007
Among the most prominent and significant fragrances in history,
the original Shalimar was created as an ode to love in 1925.
To recapture that magical feeling for the holidays, Guerlain
reinterprets the Shalimar legend, with a nod to designer
Philippe Starck. Much like his famed black crystal Baccarat
chandelier, the latest offering from the Shalimar family is a
modern rare jewel. Crafted of smoky black crystal with
burnished gold accents, the beloved scent finds a new
home in this unusual and striking flacon.
Shalimar begins with an effervescent combination of fresh
citrus ingredients reminiscent of fine Champagne.
Its elegant and feminine heart of luxurious flowers - jasmine,
rose, heliotrope and iris - drifts into a warm, sensual
base of woods and spices. The lingering impression
of a tender embrace is mysterious, voluptuous, unforgettable.
Shalimar Perfume $345 30ml (Limited Editon)
Shalimar Eau de Parfum $110 75ml (Limited Editon)
Guerlain photographs courtesy of Guerlain PR office
Sniffapalooza New York City!
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball Countdown!
The countdown has begun! In just TWO SHORT WEEKS, fragrance lovers from around the globe will be gathering in NYC for the most spectacular fragrance event of the season, the ultra-fabulous Sniffapalooza Fall Ball!
For those who are just joining the Sniffapalooza family, the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball is an entire weekend crammed full of olfactory and multi-sensory experiences. You'll come away from the weekend with new knowledge, new friends, lots of new goodies, and a new perspective on a fragrant life. There's nothing else like it on the planet. This year's event will be Saturday, October 20 - Sunday, October 21. As always, Saturday will be our *Uptown* day, and Sunday will be our *Downtown* day. Just a few spaces remain for each day, so if you love fragrance and want to have the greatest weekend of your life, please sign up as soon as possible!
Here's what we've got on the roster so far, and we're continuing to work on more surprises. Stay tuned for additional updates!
At BERGDORF GOODMAN, it is our pleasure to present:
- Perfumer Kilian Hennessy, of the Hennessy cognac family, with his incredible new line, By Kilian. Sniffapalooza gets first sniff!
- Antonia Bellanca of Antonia's Flowers, meet the woman behind this beautiful collection of scents.
- Mark D'Avirro of Guerlain, who will be presenting Guerlain's newest creations and limited editions, including Quand Vient La Pluie, and he'll also premiere the new Pucci fragrance.
- Christopher Brosius, a Sniffapalooza favorite local perfumer, who will be showing his CB I Hate Perfume collection.
- Dovanna Pagowsky, treating us to Acqua di Parma's latest release, Colonia Intensa.
- Ineke Ruhland, sharing her inspirations as a perfumer and showing her collection.
- Tom Crutchfield, presenting Etro, Asprey, and Annick Goutal, and premiering the exclusive Goutal butterfly bottles.
- Sharene Bell, telling us the story of L'Artisan Parfumeur's latest vintage limited edition, Iris.
- Michele Curcio of Jo Malone, introducing us to White Jasmine & Mint.
- Aurelien Guichard, perfumer with Givaudan, presenting Robert Piguet's new Visa.
- Sandi Burrows of Serge Lutens, welcoming a favorite collection back to Bergdorf Goodman.
- Theresa Dickinson of Creed, sharing Creed's exquisite new atomizers with us.
- Cathy Lilly of Ajne, teaching us about Ajne's new demi-blending.
- Olga Shifan of Estee Lauder, presenting Aerin Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia and exclusive compacts.
- Emmanuelle Brard of Hermes, debuting Kelly Caleche.
- Kathryn Jourav of Tom Ford, premiering Black Orchid Voile de Fleur & Tom Ford for Men.
- Ingrid Gonzalez of Fendi, giving us the scoop on new Palazzo.
There will also be representatives to present Prada, Chanel, Missoni, JAR, Caron, Clive Christian, and many other lines.
**Please Note: Space for the breakfast at Bergdorf Goodman from 8:15 -10:00am, which is limited to 65 persons due to fire-code laws, has completely sold out. If you have not gotten a seat at the breakfast, you may come at 10:00am and get to meet all the speakers and special guests, and, of course, carry away the legendary BG gift bag! We encourage you to join our BG Breakfast Waiting List, as there is often movement in the week of the event. We will remain at BG until 12:15pm so you'll have plenty of time to sniff!
At our luncheon at SEPPI'S, we are pleased to have you meet:
- Chandler Burr, fragrance critic for The New York Times and author of The Emperor of Scent, and the soon-to-be-released The Perfect Scent, giving us a sneak-peek at his new book.
- Perfumer Neil Morris of Neil Morris Fragrances, presenting his collection.
- Salvatore Piazzolla, founder of Hampton Suncare & Privet Bloom fragrance, introducing his lines.
- Anne-Cecile Duputel, of Crazy Libellule and the Poppies parfums, sharing
the new collection from Paris.
At TAKASHIMAYA, we are excited to present to you:
- Ulrich Lang, creative force of Anvers and Anvers II.
- Montgomery Taylor presenting Ambre di Venizia, Parallel & Calibration.
- Perfumer YOSH Han, treating us to her extraordinary line.
- Marjorie Kitzrow, the creator of Summersent, sharing her fragrance inspirations.
- Maria from Aroma M. presenting the collection.
- Representatives will also be on hand from Miller Harris, This Works, Santa Maria Novella, Lorenzo Villoresi, The Different Company, Divine, Carthusia, Patyka, and many others.
**Special Takashimaya Promotion for Sniffapalooza: $25 off $100 purchase!
At HENRI BENDEL, it is our honor for you to meet:
- Creative visionary Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libre D'Orange, presenting the collection.
- Legendary perfumer Mandy Aftel, sharing her life as a perfumer and
introducing her creations.
- Representatives from L'Artisan, Caron, Privet Bloom, Be.becker, Memoire Liquide, and many others.
**Special Bendel Gift With Purchase for Sniffapalooza!
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 21
At BOND No. 9, please meet Bond No. 9 founder and Director Laurice Rahme, who will introduce the newest additions to the line.
**Special Bond 15% discount on all purchases for Sniffapalooza, and get your fabulous gift bag!
At LE LABO, please meet founders Eddie & Fabrice, and sample the line.
At LAFCO NY, please meet creative team Jon Bresler & Segen Scott, who will present their many fragrance & home lines.
** Special Lafco 20% discount on all purchases for Sniffapalooza, and come away with a terrific gift bag!
At our luncheon at COUNTRY CAFE, we are pleased to present:
- Miryana Babic of I Profumi di Firenze, presenting her newest fragrances.
- Debra Courtright of Floris of London showing the collection.
- Rapahella Brescia of Sniffapalooza Magazine with a special raffle!
- Representatives from Tarte Cosmetics, and many others!
**Please note: Due to the size of the group, there will be two seatings for lunch. While the first seating dines, the second seating will visit L'Artisan Parfumeur, which is right across the street. While the second seating dines, the first seating will visit L'Artisan Parfumeur. Seatings are from 1:00-2:30pm & 2:30-4:00pm.
At L'ARTISAN PARFUMEUR, we are thrilled to have you meet L'Artisan President Francois Duquesne, who will present new releases and share his experiences with fragrance. Leave with tons of samples!
At AEDES DE VENUSTAS, we are excited to present:
- Kilian Hennessy, his last appearance right before he gets on the plane back to Paris, presenting his fragrances.
- Dominique from Molinard presenting the collection.
- Symine Salimpour, creative visionary of Shiloh perfume, premiering her scent and sharing her experiences with perfumer Michel Roudnitska.
**Special sampling and a terrific gift bag!
To make it easy to register, we have combined the event registration fee and lunch charge into one payment. The lunches include an appetizer,
main course, dessert, non-alcoholic beverage, tax & gratuity. If you purchase the full weekend package, you SAVE MONEY!
The rates are as follows: Saturday, 10/20: $65 covers event & lunch, Sunday, 10/21: $65 covers event & lunch, Full weekend: $125 covers events 10/20 & 10/21 & lunches both days.
You can register at www.sniffapalooza.com via PayPal. You will need to log in with your Username and Password to access the "Event Registration" page. If you have questions or need to make other payment arrangements, please contact Karen Adams at kadams@sniffapalooza.com.
Looking forward to seeing our old friends and meeting our new ones...
Viva La Sniffa, Baby!
Neil Morris
will be appearing at Sniffapalooza Fall Ball on Saturday.
Mark David: Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your perfumes, and its History?
I have been creating custom fragrances for individual clients, private label, and special occasions
for more than 30 years. A little more than four years ago I met my business partner, David Garten,
who convinced me to bring my fragrances to a wider audience. Earlier this year I launched a line
of six fragrances- Aegean, Afire, Clear, Midnight Flower, Quest, and Zephyr. I recently added
two new scents to the line - Storm and Coral - which I will be featuring during my presentation
at Sniffapalooza. I really wanted to invite people into my world and have them become a part of it,
so in addition to describing the fragrance I also like to share my inspiration for creating the fragrance
and have included both the description and the inspiration on the back of each box.
Mark David: As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh
and interesting?
I find my inspiration in people and events that have been part of my life. What keeps it fresh
and interesting is the enthusiasm and encouragement I receive from the many special people
who love my fragrances.
Mark David: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests
at this fall's event?
I can't wait to tell my friends at Sniffa about the eight perfumes in our retail line. Storm and Coral are the two newest. Storm is based on a memory of an approaching Summer Thunderstorm on Cape Cod when I was 10 years old. I remember the sudden quiet and the "smell" of the storm - ozone in the air - that charged the scent of everything around me! The trees, flowers, grass - everything! Then the storm was upon us and we ran for cover! The aftermath left everything - the flowers, sand & trees - wet and incredibly fragrant. Top Notes of Papaya and Lime lead to a Floral Heart of Delphinium and Purple Hyacinth. The dry down is a blend of Tonka Bean, Golden Musk and Marine Notes.
Coral was inspired by a three hour walk I took along Laguna Beach, CA. It was a GORGEOUS late afternoon as can only be found in Southern California. The ocean had that "scent" that tells you - without a doubt - that you are on the West Coast and not the East Coast! I was completely tuned in to my surroundings and fully present in the moment. The Sea Birds, The Wet Sand, The Dry Sand, The Flowers growing on the nearby cliffs, The scent of the Fruit Juice I was sipping, EVERYTHING! It was a completely magical experience.
Coral begins with Top Notes of Bergamot and Pomegranate leading to Heart Notes of Fig and Sweet Pea lightly touched with Bulgarian Rose. The Dry Down involves Sandalwood and an Incense Note(to conjure images of Driftwood) and a fresh Oceanic Musk!
Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many people?
AFIRE and CLEAR are two of our most popular fragrances. AFIRE is a very sultry and exotic scent. It is wonderful on both men and women. I'm often told by fans that they get constant comments on AFIRE and that it's like nothing else they've tried. CLEAR is a very refreshing blend of Linden, Yuzu, Mint and Cedar. I didn't want just another "clean" scent and the reports from those who wear it are overwhelmingly positive.
Mark David: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?
I am so glad you asked that. I have a real treat in store for my fellow Sniffas! I have created hundreds of fragrances over the years on my own, in addition to all the bespoke fragrances I have created clients. The past several months I have been in contact with many of the new friends that David and I met at the Spring Sniffapalooza. Everyone has been so kind with their responses for my eight fragrances. But as you said, being Sniffas they are always looking for something new and different. So we thought it only fitting to create a special area on our website that would allow fellow fragrance fanatics to experience fragrances for the truly adventurous. The new area of the site will be launched some time in the next few months, but before the Spring Sniffapalooza 2008. So I will be presenting a sneak preview of one of the new fragrances to my fellow Sniffas before anyone else in the world has had the opportunity to try it. I can’t wait to hear the responses!
Thank you so very much and we look forward to meeting you and your fragrances at Sniffapalooza's Fall Ball!
Neil Morris: The Proust of Perfume
By Michelyn Camen; Beauty New, NYC
“She sent out for one of those short, plump little cakes called petites madeleines, which look as though they had been moulded in the fluted scallop of a pilgrim’s shell. And soon, mechanically, weary after a dull day with the prospect of a depressing morrow, I raised to my lips a spoonful of the tea in which I had soaked a morsel of the cake. No sooner had the warm liquid, and the crumbs with it, touched my palate than a shudder ran through my whole body, and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary changes that were taking place…at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its brevity illusory…”(2)
— Remembrance of Things Past, Volume 1: Swann’s Way
Neil Morris stands out in a crowd; both the man and his amazing line of fragrances. At 6” 6, Neil towered over the genteel diners at our breakfast meeting at the fabulously opulent Hotel Algonquin’s lounge. He walked up to me as if we had met before, gave me a giant hug and in a surprisingly soft spoken voice for such a big man said, “You must be Michelyn and you are wearing Aegean”. (Aegean is one of my favorite fragrances from his line of eight spectacular scents). Neil introduced me to his business partner David Garten and we all got comfortable over cappuccinos. In speaking with Neil, his approach to fragrance is unlike any other perfumer I have met. The fragrances are based on actual life experiences. For example, he does not use the familiar perfumer vernacular, top, mid, and base notes; for example he describes his latest scent Storm as opening with the “calm before ”, morphing to the down pour and settling into après le deluge. We began the interview on that totally different note.
BN: Neil, your approach to fragrance reminds me of the great author Proust’s approach to literature. Explain to our readers your relationship with fragrance.
NM: Our sense of smell is intimately connected to our experience of the world around us. Without us knowing, it governs what we choose to eat, who we love, why we hate, and how we remember; yet, we pay very little attention to the profound effect that scents have on our everyday lives.
BN: You have a custom clientele in Boston and fragrances were created for individuals only. When was the retail business launched?
NM: I met my business partner David Garten in 2003 while I was operating as an independent perfumer. Our incredible passion for fragrances led to a discussion about establishing a fragrance company that could expand beyond the custom fragrance market and introduce a ready to wear line of fragrances that would allow a larger group of fragrance lovers to experience and enjoy Neil Morris perfumes. Over the years I’ve created a catalog of over one hundred fragrances, most inspired by my own personal experiences and memories. From that catalog, we chose six favorites to launch. The initial line of six fragrances (Clear, Zephyr, Aegean, Quest, Afire and Midnight Flower) was launched at a New Year’s event held at the Montage Laguna Beach, CA.
BN: What are your two newest scents? And of course, what are the “stories” that influence you to create them.
NM: Coral and Storm. Here are the stories behind them. Storm is based on a memory of an approaching summer thunderstorm on Cape Cod when I was 12 years old. I remember the sudden quiet and the “smell” of the storm - ozone in the air - that charged the scent of everything around me! The trees, flowers, grass - everything! Then the storm was upon us and we ran for cover! The aftermath left everything - the flowers, sand & trees - wet and fragrant. I blended notes as follows: pres-storm- Papaya and Lime, the downpour leads to a Floral Heart of Delphinium and Purple Hyacinth. “Après le deluge” is a blend of Tonka Bean, Golden Musk and Marine Notes.
Coral was inspired by a three hour walk I took along Laguna Beach. It was a GORGEOUS late afternoon as can only be found in Southern California. The ocean had that “scent” that tells you - without a doubt - that you are on the West Coast and not the East Coast! I was completely tuned in to my surroundings and fully present in the moment. The Sea Birds, The Wet Sand, The Dry Sand, The Flowers growing on the nearby cliffs, The scent of the Fruit Juice I was sipping, EVERYTHING! It was a completely magical experience.
BN: Although your focus is on growing your retail business, I know our readers would love to learn a little about your custom clientele business. Ok, pretend, I am a new customer and I want you to create a fragrance just for me. Then what?
NM: First, I would serve you a cup of tea and appreciate that you did not wear any manufactured scent when you came to my studio (Neill sniffs Michelyn’s elbow which has no added scent). I detect signature body chemistry to you…. It’s milky. Others may have salty, airy, powdery, etc. I don’t have a list of set names but go by my nose and instincts when smell-testing a client’s skin. That is why fragrances smell better on some people than on others. I don’t have a list of set names but go by my nose and instincts when smell-testing a client’s skin.
With your milky natural scent, I would immediately think you are not a floral person. Amber, Vanilla, Benzoin and Sandalwood- Afire would smell great on you. I would ask you about happy moments in your life, ask you to describe favorite art, books, music, images, memories, passions, etc. (the total session is approximately one and one half hours). I then choose a selection of appropriate aromas from a collection of over 700 fragrances for you to sample. After you’ve chosen the aromas you find most appealing, I build the fragrance directly on your skin—drop-by-drop—until it becomes the right scent for you!
BN: BTW, I have trouble wearing florals, you are right. They smell too strong on me. Neil, any DO’S and don’ts of wearing fragrance in summer?
NM: A good question. Generally it’s best to avoid heavy, dense fragrances during the summer such as Shalimar or Chanel #5. The heat and humidity tend to make them a bit too “lush” for the average person. A light floral or fruity perfume usually is best for summer. Zephyr and Clear are favorite summertime choices for many of my clients.
BN: Ok, here’s the fun part. What are two things about that our readers would be surprised to know about you?
NM: I love vintage Sci-Fi movies from the fifties! I’m also in love with Drive-In movies theaters! I go with a group of friends as often as possible during the season.
BN: David, you have been so quiet, what is the biggest challenge in growing the Neil Morris Fragrance retail business?
DG: Not being able to have Neil in every store to personally introduce the fragrances to each client. His love of fragrance is only matched by his passion for meeting new friends and introducing them personally to his perfumes (but we are working on that).
Neil Morris Fragrances
221 Massachusetts Avenue
Suite 501
Boston, MA 02115
617.267.2315
Jane Hendler - Parfumeur at Bergdorf Goodman's
The extraordinary fragrance and product experiences of Ajne are inspired by a rich history. Centuries ago, Master Alchemists and their apprentices blended rare, precious botanicals into incense, fragrant oils and healing elixirs usually for royalty. Many formulas reputedly possessed healing, transformative and almost magical properties. Yet while legendary, the formulations were limited by local plant availability and especially by the existing distillation technology. In the industrial age of the late 19th century, inexpensive, colorless aroma-chemicals were first developed, which today have replaced natural ingredients altogether. Yet whether developed from non-sustainable petroleum or chemically manipulated from less expensive plant substances, we feel they lack the complex fragrance characteristics and most importantly, the healing benefits of rare and precious plants. But Ajne changes all that! Combining the blending secrets and rare, organic materials of the past with the most modern distillation technology, we now invite you to escape to the realm of Ajne, where precious natural ingredients are hand-blended into transformative experiences that indulge the senses.
Jane began her love affair with rare and precious scent as a child playing in front of aromatic lilacs on warm summer evenings.
Fragrance captured her imagination and drew her to the world of beauty. While working as Vice President for a beauty product company, she was captivated by the properties of natural ingredients, but saw first-hand the corporate practice of "compounding," the diluting of natural formulas with synthetic chemicals. And with that, her life's work became clear. Inspired to pursue her passion, she literally followed her nose on a 12 year quest to study both on her own and with the great masters of distillation and blending. Today, Jane is a Certified Master Essential Oil Therapist and Herbalist, lending unique insights to her creativity. Yet, Jane's skill goes far beyond her training. She knew intuitively that rare and precious oils could be transformed into breathtakingly elegant, sophisticated fragrances. Today, Jane is recognized as a gifted perfumeur. She and her husband Rex blend ancient alchemy with the latest technology to grow, source and distill the world's rarest plant oils into the finest, safest and entirely natural custom parfum, skin care, body care and ambient fragrancing.
Nestled in the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea California, Ajne is one of the world's only entirely natural perfume houses and the nation's premiere destination for 'scentophiles' and seekers of rare and precious products. Alongside sculptors, painters and poets, Jane Hendler creates 'fragrant' art. Blending real flower and plant ingredients without synthetic chemicals of any kind, Jane creates the perfumes, lotions, soaps, skin care and home fragrances for her Prêt-à-Porter collection, as well as the ultimate in luxury, an Ajne Couture custom blend.
Entering the boutique, the first thing you notice is the intoxicating, delicate scent. As you try to decipher just what it is, you're drawn further into the space evoking a 15th century French parfumerie complete with 22 karat gold accents. Your journey of self and scent discovery begins at an antique dressing table, where you'll complete a brief, computerized questionnaire. The computer accesses a database of thousands of potential ingredients best suited to your unique chemistry. A keen nose may detect Ajne's famous scent bar where you can browse the largest collection of plant distilled fragrant oils. Here, many people experience for the first time nearly 300 authentic aromatics including some from Ajne's own organic farm and others from small, elite growers around the world.
A magnificent gilded granite hand-painted blending bar is located at the back of the boutique where Jane mixes these rare and precious ingredients until your signature perfume, lotion or skin care product is blended to perfection. You can even select from Ajne's breathtaking collection of handmade perfume bottles including the signature black heart flacon designed by Jane's husband Rex.
Jane Hendler Parfumeur Ajne Parfumerie and Apothecary
Mark David Boberick of Sniffapalooza Magazine: Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your Product Line, and its History?
Jane Hendler: I have had a passion for fragrance for about as long as I remember. I am the one who literally has to stop and smell every flower and plant wherever I am. The idea of Ajne started about 9 years ago when my husband Rex and I took a trip to Mt Shasta for my birthday. My dad had been sick with cancer with a grim prognosis and I was seriously reevaluating my life. Rex and I had a long talk where I expressed to him that what I really wanted to do was to work with natural healing essential oils and create beautiful perfumes and therapeutic products using them. I wanted to create a collection of perfume that were healthy and had balancing properties for the body and mind. Rex expressed that he wanted to get his hands in the earth and create an organic farm and distill plants for there essential oils. We realized that our combined vision created a business. We spent several years wrapping up existing projects and eventually selling our former business. I went back to school and became a certified essential oil therapist, herbalist and natural perfumer. I wanted to make sure that I had all the credentials that I needed. Two and a half years ago we launched Ajne and our first store in Carmel California. Ajne is a unique concept in that we are one of the few natural perfume houses in the world. We work in only pure rare and precious essential oils in fact we have one of the largest collections in the world. We also have organic lavender farm where we grow and distill many of our own oils. Our store is a working perfumery where we hand blend all of our formulas on the premises. We created a proprietary computer analysis that directs you to the correct fragrance for your unique body chemistry and personality. Aside from parfum Ajne also has a full collection of body care products that can be scented to match your fragrance, Maternite fragrances, baby care collection, therapeutic body care and skincare and environmental fragrancing. We also create custom blended parfums and environmental fragrances for your home, wedding, business, resort and spa.
Mark David: As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting?
Jane Hendler: My first response is nature. Since I am working in nature with pure essential oils this makes sense. Quite often the small in the air, a flower that I smell or the smell of an amazing vacation destination will intrigue me to create something new. Of course my clients are a huge motivator as well especially those that I am commissioned to create custom blends for. Creating a custom blend gets my undivided attention and allows me the time to put combinations together that perhaps I've never tried before. I always end up with amazing ideas from a custom blending session.
Mark David: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?
Jane Hendler:I am most excited about our BG luunch of our on the floor demi blending process. This is a process where we can create in less than an hour a personalized custom fragrance by blending various perfume accords and rare and precious bridge notes to meet the needs and desires of each client.
Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many people?
Jane Hendler: I find that this varies according to the season and geographic location. Currently my newest fragrance de Lavande is one of the most popular. It is a blend of three lavenders from France, Bulgaria and one from our own farm almond scented woods. It is so soft and powdery with just a touch of spice. The lavender also helps to induce a calming and overall balancing effect which most of us really need. Psyche is another big hit and one of my newer fragrances. It is a floral oriental built around rose and champaca with a beautiful grounding base accord containing notes of frankincense. This is a complex fragrance with a beautiful floral bouquet and a hint of warming spice. This fragrance makes me feel like I am being wrapped in a warm blanket. It helps one to stay grounded and steady the mind. Perfect for the fall and winter months.
Mark David: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves -it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look
forward to in the New Product/Release department?
Jane Hendler: You can create your very own personalized fragrance with our BG Ajne Melanger thru Demi Blending. Our clients love the idea of having a fragrance that is uniquely them and one that they can personally name. I love encouraging clients to create a name that helps them to work on issues in there life and then they can use their fragrance as a tool to affirm this positive attribute every time they smell it.
Thank you so very much and we look forward to meeting you and your fragrances at Sniffapalooza's Fall Ball!
photographs courtesy of Ajne PR office
Ajne Parfumerie and Apothecary
Robert Piguet Parfums:
Visa de Robert Piguet
Bergdorf Goodman's Sniffapalooza
Joseph Garces, president of Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, Ltd.
Visa de Robert Piguet. Because life has no boundaries.
A sophisticated woman travels the world but never gets lost in the crowd.
Her signature fragrance is reminiscent of all the places she visits and sights she sees.
Discover uncharted places. Make them your own. Mysterious and addictive, where will Visa take you?
Experience Robert Piguet's Most Exotic Olfactive Journey
Visa, Robert Piguet's classic oriental fragrance originally created by Germaine Cellier and launched in
1945, has been rebalanced to blend modern radiance and retro glamour. Givaudan's Aurelien Guichard
undertook the delicate process of adapting Visa's original formula to respond to today's sensibilities.
The approach combined contemporary style with a strong commitment to Piguet's original vision,
specifically remaining sensitive to all the nuances and complexities of Visa.
A blend of spices, flowers and fruits from different areas of the globe, Visa de Robert Piguet is its
wearer's passport to an exotic encounter. Visa opens with lush notes of white vineyard peach, pear,
violet leaves and Italian bergamot and yellow mandarin essences. Heart notes include rich ylang
essence mingled with rose, immortelle and orange flower absolutes. Essence of Indonesian
Patchouli and sandalwood, vetiver, moss, vanilla beans, benzoin and a gourmand leathery accord
compose the drydown.
The signature Robert Piguet flacon in sleek black glass is richly accented in gold for the
reintroduction of Visa. Elegant and stylish, Visa is a fragrance with great depth and character...
sexy, modern, unique.
Mark David: Can you tell us briefly about your Company's History?
Joseph Garces: Couturier Robert Piguet began developing fragrances in the 1940s. Like his fashions,
Piguet’s fragrances were created with much attention to detail, sophistication, elegance and individual
style. Following Piguet’s death in 1953, the fragrance business passed through a number of owners
and distributors. Ten years ago, Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics, Ltd. acquired the Robert Piguet
trademark. The company’s main priority was to return to the original formulas for Fracas and Bandit,
the two historical classic fragrances in the collection. Today, the company’s mission is to market
and introduce Piguet’s legendary and unique fragrances by maintaining the same bold attributes
and highest level of quality Piguet demanded in his scents. The fragrances developed or reintroduced
by the company sustain this strong conviction to the Robert Piguet
legacy.
Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what
about them do you think makes them register to so many people?
Joseph Garces: Piguet customers are seeking something unique and exciting. They’ve come to expect
fragrances that reflect their personalities and style, allowing them to stand out from the crowd.
These enthusiasts realize these scents truly stand the test of time, and are as modern today as
they were decades ago.Fracas is the star of the range, celebrating its 60th anniversary next year.
It is an intoxicating combination of tuberose, lush white flowers and a hint of orange blossom.
Fracas was the first tuberose-dominated white floral fragrance introduced to the market. It was
created for Robert Piguet by Germaine Cellier, the first female perfumer in France. Once a cult secret,
Fracas has evolved into an industry icon. Last year Fracas was inducted into the FiFi Hall of Fame.
Fracas is often cited in international media, and constantly hailed by celebrities.
Bandit, which was Piguet’s first fragrance, was formulated in 1944. It is an intense blend of exotic leather,
wood, spices and floral notes. It is one of Piguet’s more androgynous scents, loved equally by women
and men. Bandit was the first Chypre fragrance to include smoky and leather tones. In 1950, Piguet created Baghari, an intricate blend of Centifolia and Damascena roses, Egyptian jasmine, amber and iris. Baghari was reintroduced last year. Givaudan’s Aurélien Guichard undertook the delicate process of adapting Baghari’s original formula to respond to modern sensibilities. During the development process, Aurelien was committed to honoring Piguet’s original vision, specifically remained sensitive to all the nuances and complexities of Baghari, and at the same time, incorporated his contemporary tastes to the formula. The company decided to turn to Aurelien once again for the re-orchestration of Visa de Robert Piguet, launching this month exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman.
Mark David: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?
Joseph Garces: It is an incredible honor to have Aurelien Guichard present Visa de Robert Piguet, the brand’s newest launch, to this distinguished panel. Aurelien will describe the evolutionary creative process used in order to bring back these classics, from establishing the original formulas to the development direction of the fragrances for the market today, while always maintaining the image and high level of Robert Piguet quality.
Mark David: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?
Joseph Garces: Visa de Robert Piguet is an amazing introduction for Fall featuring new molecules proprietary to Givaudan. The new technology used in the formula allowed Aurelien to combine his vision of a future classic with nuances of the original formula.
Aurelien Guichard is a young perfumer that has talent and a gift for creating fragrances that leave a trail. He is an artist, and his art is creating fine fragrances.
Thank you so very much and we look forward to meeting you and your fragrances at Sniffapalooza's Fall Ball!
CONTEMPORARY MASTER PERFUMER
Appearing at Sniffapalooza
We knew we needed just the right “nose” to rebalance this very special fragrance.
We found him in Aurélien Guichard, a young master perfumer who is part of the Fine
Fragrance Team of Givaudan in Paris. Aurélien was appropriately born in Grasse,
the center of the great tradition of “Haute Parfumerie.” He discovered his passion for
composing fragrances while working for Givaudan in New York City. He joined the
Fragrance Team after three years’ study at the Givaudan Perfumery School. Since then
he has created Love in Paris and Les Belles-Cherry Fantasy for Nina Ricci, as well
as several other successful fragrances. Along with his obvious talent, we were drawn
to Aurélian’s commitment to honoring Piguet’s original vision, his sensitivity to all
the nuances and complexities of Baghari, and his familiarity with contemporary tastes.
Aurélian undertook the delicate process of adapting Baghari’s original formula to
respond to today’s sensibilities. The result: a modern classic fragrance destined to
last forever.
Special thanks to Nanci DiGiaimo
photographs courtesy of PR office of Robert Piguet Parfums
Hampton Sun Privet Bloom -Salvatore Piazzolla Presenting
Inspired by summer in the Hamptons
SENSUOUS SOPHISTICATION-PRIVET BLOOM
A NEW FRAGRANCE BY Hampton Sun
The Fragrance: A delicate scent that captures the purity and elegance
of summer in the Hamptons, with a fresh and unique blend of sea spray,
dune grass, blue plum and the captivating privet blossom.
This signature fragrance new from Hampton Sun.
Welcome to S&G HAMPTON SUN, our complete line of luxury sun-tanning
products inspired by the beautiful beaches of eastern Long Island, New York.
Created especially for the Hamptons Set—quality-minded individuals who enjoy
the sun but not the burn—Hampton Sun products provide superior skin treatment
for every category of sunbather. We believe using Hampton Sun products
allows you to make the most of your time in the sun, whether at the beach,
by the pool, or just strolling through town.
S&G’s Smart Serious Sunbathing offers unique formulations that combine the
most effective moisturizers, anti-oxidants and sun protection ingredients to provide
the most flawless and enviable tan possible. With a clean-lined package design
and a signature fragrance reminiscent of the region’s blooming privet hedges, Hampton Sun products embody the simple pleasures that make up the magnetic allure of the Hamptons.
The Hampton Sun Vision
As co-founders of Hampton Sun we wanted to create something very special—like no other suntan product on the market.
After studying a basket full of different types of suntan products by the pool one day, we wanted to create something that was completely different. It had to be natural, feel light, silky, clean and rejuvenating, contain the most powerful antioxidants along with vitamins A through E and provide UVA/UVB protection to help reduce premature signs of aging. Having achieved this, the line also had to have a complete spectrum of SPF protection for all skin types, be hypo-allergenic and dermatologically tested for safety. After working with a highly experienced chemist for over a year perfecting the formulas, we finally achieved our goal.
When we were asked what it should smell like, it took a very talented perfumer to see our vision. Riding your bike to the beach, the smell of privet hedges blooming in the breeze, the sun in your face as you approach the dunes, and then at last you see the ocean, a deep breath, fresh, clean and pure. We’ve captured this feeling in our signature fragrance Privet Bloom that is most memorable.
Our Serious Shimmer Cooling Spray is the perfect after sun accessory. It cools the skin with Aloe Vera and Chamomile, giving the skin the benefit of our signature vitamin formula which helps diminish the premature signs of aging. Its subtle shimmer illuminates your tan. We’ve heightened our signature fragrance to smell intoxicating—perfect for a night out under the stars.
Our packaging had to be sophisticated and elegant, something you would like to have on display whether it be in the pool house or in the guest cottage. A classic clean bottle with a gold atomizer that is pulled out of a chic raffia pouch—perfect to throw into a beach bag.
We hope you enjoy the line as much as we enjoy it with our friends in the Hamptons… Smart Serious Sunbathing
See you on the beaches, Salvatore & Grant
Co-founders and residents of Manhattan and Southampton, NY.
S&G Hampton Sun products are available fine retail stores.
For more information visit www.hamptonsuncare.com.
Chandler Burr
Perfume Critic and author of
The Emperor Of Scent
Guest Speaker at Sniffapalooza
discussing his new book release...
coming soon.
Watch for a full interview about
his new book in
Sniffapalooza Magazine.
Mark David: Can you tell us briefly about your exciting new book release?
"The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris & New York" will be published January
22 by Henry Holt, Inc. It's about the year I spent for The New Yorker magazine behind the scenes in
Hermes watching Jean-Claude Ellena create "Un Jardin sur le Nil" for Hermes; and the year I spent,
starting with an article for The New York Times, inside Coty with Sarah Jessica Parker as she creative
directed Laurent Le Guernec and Clément Gavarry in their creation of "Lovely."
Mark David: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests at
this fall's event?
Some personal details about the making of the book.
Mark David: What is it that makes us all so passionate about fragrance?
It's the communication system that is at once most ancient in our species, most viscerally powerful,
and least organizable by the rational mind.
photograph courtesy of Chandler Burr
Lafco NY
Segan Scott and Jon Bresler will show us thier amazing array of
many fragrances and home lines.
Mark David: Can you tell us briefly about your Company's History?
Segan Scott: LAFCO NY - Luxury Articles and Fragrance Company - distributor of high
end, luxury, niche perfumes and body care. Santa Maria Novella, Lorenzo Villoresi,
Eau d' Italie, House & Home, Claus Porto and Linari.
Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products
in the range and what about them do you think makes them register to so
many people?
Segan Scott: Pomegranate Fragrance, Latte Per Il Copro, Pot-Pourri from Santa Maria
Novella. Alamut, Teint de Neige Fragrance and Yerbamate Bath Salts from Lorenzo Villoresi.
The best unisex fragrance via Allure's Beauty Awards - Eau d' Italie Signature fragrance.
The launch of 6 new Rooms/Fragrances in House & Home Candle Collection.
Crenia and Melodia - the two NEW fragrances just hitting the shelves in America!
Legno and Sfera Room diffusers - set the home for the Fall Season.
Mark David: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza
guests at this fall's event?
Segan Scott: All of the above, under one roof!
Mark David: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the
newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the
New Product/Release department?
Segan Scott: Being the 1st in the states to sample Toscano, the new Fragrance from
Santa Maria Novella and Luce and Songa the two new home fragrances from Linari.
All will be ready to delivery by November - just in time for the Holidays!
Thank you so very much and we look forward to meeting you at Sniffapalooza's
Fall Ball!
photographs courtsy of LafcoNY
CREED
Theresa Dickenson of Creed at Bergdorf
Goodman's will share Creeds new exquisite
atomizers with us!
CREED is the world's only dynastic, privately held luxury
fragrance company. Founded in 1760 and passed from father
to son since then, CREED has served more than 10 royal
houses and the discerning public for 247 years. Based in
Paris, CREED today is led by the legendary Olivier CREED,
sixth generation master perfumer and company chief.
Working alongside is his son, Erwin, 26, rising seventh
generation and future head of the House. A house of tradition,
CREED adheres to unrelenting high standards in fragrance
creation and client service. CREED uses methods of hand
production, including maceration and filtration, instituted at the
company's founding. CREED is the industry's strongest
proponent of natural ingredients in fragrance.
For these reasons, CREED has a loyal clientele that includes royalty,
Hollywood stars, political leaders, legends in business, sports, music
and the fine arts as well as discerning members of the public who
value beauty and quality in scent.
Adam Brecht of Creed spoke with us about the upcoming event-
Mark David: Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your Product Line, and its History?
Adam Brecht: Olivier CREED is the sixth-generation master perfumer and worldwide chairman and CEO of CREED, the world's only privately held luxury fragrance dynasty passed from father to son in an unbroken line since 1760, serving more than 10 royal houses and the discerning public for 247 years. CREED is based in Paris. Today's master perfumer, Olivier CREED, has created not only some of the most artistic fragrances in the history of CREED, he has also created the most popular, including Millesime Imperial, Green Irish Tweed, Silver Mountain Water, Love in White, Original Santal and Virgin Island Water, to name just a few. The House of CREED is enjoying an extraordinarily creative period. Working with Olivier CREED is his son, Erwin, 26, the seventh generation of the House and its designated future head. Olivier and Erwin CREED have collaborated on the last several CREED fragrances, all enthusiastically received by the CREED worldwide clientele.
Mark David: As a perfumer, where do you think Oliver Creed finds the most inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting?
An avid outdoorsman, Olivier CREED most often finds his inspiration in nature. A sailing journey with his son on Sir Francis Drake Channel off Ginger Island in the Caribbean became the inspiration for the 2007 fragrance, Virgin Island Water, rich with notes of coconut, lime and white rum. A journey to the mountains and temple ruins of the former royal colony of Ceylon in the south Parcific was the inspiraiton for limited edition CREED Royal Ceylan, lavish with lotus blossom and white tip platinum tea, presented in atomizers that evoke pillars wapped in flowering vines. When not working, Olivier CREED is an equestrian and skier and was a member of France's national championship golf team in 1984. Erwin CREED is also a skier. The CREEDs' love of nature and the outdoors influences their art of scent.
Mark David: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza
guests at this fall's event?
Fall and Holiday 2007 bring a range of exquisite goods from the House of CREED
Olivier CREED designed -- and personally signed and numbered -- a limited edition
of 350 golden flacons and atomizers to celebrate the centennial of Neiman Marcus.
It is the first time Mr. CREED has ever so honored a retailer. Filled with classic
Millesime Imperial fragrance for men and women, these collectors' items are
available at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman and their website ($450
for the pair). CREED is also expanding its permanent collection of 1.7-ounce
shatterproof take-anywhere Italian leather-wrapped atomizers in response to
client demand, starting with a special silver atomizer originally created to
celebrate the 75th anniversary of the Empire State Building ($150), where
CREED's corporate headquarters are located. A harvest of humble gold
atomizers arrive in October ($125), with a sleek black atomizer to follow
the next month ($125). This is in addition to CREED's existing palette
of atomizers in colors from camel to scarlet ($125). Each atomizer is etched
with CREED's royal three-plume crest and exclusive Paris address.
In addition to their beauty, CREED atomizers are the ultimate in practicality
as they slide easily into a purse or briefcase and comply with FAA
carry-on regulations for commercial air travel.
Mr. Erwin CREED will unveil during a November visit to the U.S. new CREED
leather goods that evoke CREED's glorious past in crafting leather items for
clients including King George III, for whom CREED made leather gloves scented
with fine fragrance. CREED travel grooming kits for men and women lead the
2007 collection. Please note these items will not be in the U.S. at the time of
Sniffapalooza.
Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or
products in the range and what about them do you think makes them
register to so many people?
Although CREED hand crafts and maintains the largest line of luxury fragrances
in the industry, a permanent collection of more than 45 fine scents available to
the public, many of them originally created for royalty, CREED fragrances
including Virgin Island Water, Original Santal, Love in White, Original Vetiver, Millesime Imperial, Spring Flower and limited edition scents such as Royal Ceylan are often cited as some of the most beloved. CREED's royal fragrances command a unique following. CREED created Fleurissimo for Princess Grace of Monaco as a wedding-day gift from her fiance, Prince Rainier II. CREED crafted Fantasia de Fleurs for Empress Elisabeth of Austria-Hungary. CREED made Fleurs de Bulgarie for Queen Victoria. Citrus Bigarrade is the CREED fragrance made for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. Among "Hollywood royalty", CREED crafted Green Irish Tweed for Cary Grant, Spring Flower for Audrey Hepburn and Jasmal for Natalie Wood. Like all CREED fragrances, these scents were made using hand techniques -- including maceration and filtration -- instituted at CREED's founding in 1760. CREED fragrances are made in a single location, the CREED workshop in the woods of Fontainebleau, France, by a staff of approximately 30 people working under Olivier CREED.
Thank you. We look forward to seeing our frinds at the event.
Easily slipped into a purse or briefcase, CREED atomizers wrapped
in Italian leather are the "take anywhere" way to experience CREED
fragrances. Shatterproof and sized at 1.7 ounces, the atomizers
are also compliant with FAA liquid carry-on regulations, which makes
them ideal for air travelers. But whether traveling overseas, to the
office or the opera, CREED atomizers offer sturdy portability and
pure glamour in fragrance packaging. CREED specialists at Neiman
Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and select Saks Fifth Avenue stores
can arrange for vritually any CREED fragrance to be packaged in
a colorful CREED atomizer of a client's choosing. This is easily
done with the purchase of a CREED flacon (or decanter) from which
fragrance is poured into an atomizer.
CREED has been wrapping its bottles in leather since the firm's
first fragrance client, King George III, commissioned the scent
Royal English Leather in 1781. The bottle's leather wrapping served
as an early form of shatterproofing and, of course, handsome design
bearing the king's crest. Over the years, CREED has continued to
innovate in fragrance and leather pairings. In 2006, CREED created
a striking silver leather atomizer (photo attached) to commemorate
the 75th anniversary of the Empire State Building. Warmly received
by CREED clients worldwide, that atomizer is now offered as part of the CREED permanent collection ($150).
Also in 2006, CREED's Royal Ceylan fragrance, exclusively at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, was offered in a range of vividly patterned leather-wrapped atomizers (photo attached) that proved evenm more popular than anticipated. Responding to an urgent call, France sent the U.S. a small additional supply of Royal Ceylan to accommodate strong demand in America, and the fragrance is available today at Neiman Marcus in limited quantities ($270). In addition to brightly patterned CREED atomizers, the CREED permanent collection of atomizers includes solid shades of winter white, noir, camel, chocolate, slate, yellow, pink, crimson and green leather ($125), a color for every season and taste. www.creedcollection.com atomizers from the House of CREED www.creedcollection.com
photographs courtesy of Creed PR office and Adam Brecht; Vice President - Corporate Communications for CREED
Floris of London's Debra Courtright appearing at Sniffapalooza
Floris London Auctioning Off Limited Supply of Prestigious No. 89 Fragrance for Charity
To help spread the word about National Breast Cancer
Awareness this month, Floris London is auctioning off a
classic men's fragrance collection for a very special cause.
October 4, 2007 -- Floris London is currently hosting a
special eBay auction of the last 60 bottles available in
the US of their exclusive and prestigious No. 89 men's
fragrance, and will donate 25% of the proceeds to the Susan G.
Komen for the Cure breast cancer foundation.
Sought by men the world over, requests for the elusive
No. 89 have been great, and this sophisticated and
provocative scent has been worn by many celebrities,
including James Bond in the 007 novels and star Daniel
Craig in Casino Royale. Richard Branson was delighted
when he recently received a fresh bottle of No. 89 from
us at a party in New York City celebrating the launch of
his new Virgin America airline.
To place a bid, please go to http://search.ebay.com/Floris-No-89
About Floris London
For over 275 years, the Floris London name has been synonymous with superior and distinctive fragrances for men, women and home. Floris London's current Chairman John Bodenham is an 8th descendant of company founder Juan Femenias Floris, and their flagship store is still located at its original 89 Jermyn Street address in Mayfair London. Other Floris fragrances include: Night Scented Jasmine, evocative of sumptuous and romantic Mediterranean evenings; Florissa, the true essence of an English garden; and Seringa, a modern, assertive scent and the adornment of pure elegance. For more information please visit www.florislondon-usa.com ... Floris London-The Art of Fragrance.
Contact Information:
Laura Smith
Fiore Associates
973-359-4444
Laura @ fioreassociates.com
photographs courtesy Floris London PR office
Aedes De Venustas
Highlights
Our fabulous friends at Aedes presents Kilian Hennessy, his last appearance right before he gets on the plane back to Paris, presenting his fragrances, Dominique from Molinard presenting the collection and Symine Salimpour, creative visionary of Shiloh perfume, premiering her scent and sharing her experiences with perfumer Michel Roudnitska.
Kilian Hennessy: "I conceived The Black Masterpiece with a quasi-Faustian ambience in mind. I wanted to cast a spell, like those that darkened Rimbaud's spirit or conjured the witches in Macbeth. But it also recalls contemporary R&B lyrics like those of 50 Cent, Snoop Dogg or Pharell Williams, all about temptation in the face of urban violence, like Baudelaire before them, as expressed in his prose poetry."
One can picture Kilian in Faust's workshop, calling up the Genii of Perfumes in search of a perfect, subtle harmony to transport us. A quest for absolutes, a frenzy to live every facet of human experience. Poetry by the poètes maudits, the accursed poets, continues to resonate. Dorian Gray continues to look down at us from his frame, a familiar spirit. And the sound of "Hennessy & Buddha" by Snoop Dogg seems
to attain Nirvana. "My soul is transported by fragrance like those of other men are transported by music" Petits poèmes en Prose, Baudelaire
L’oeuvre noire, The Black Masterpiece, revolves around the first 3 themes of this Deca Arôma: ingenues, artificial paradises and Parisian orgies. A new take on La Comédie Humaine, Balzac's consummate masterpiece! Six fragrances in pairs offer a choice that situates personal preference, whether in pleasure, love or pain. Choose Liaisons Dangereuses or Cruel Intentions, Love or Beyond Love, A taste of heaven or Straight to heaven.
"There's no reason to fear words when one has consented to things." Alexis ou le traité du vain combat, Marguerite Yourcenar
In fragrances for men, the artificial paradise is a black sun, the dark side of beauty. To taste paradise, a man must defy holiness and magic. These fragrances hail from a new paradise, one that man has chosen for himself. Inspired by Absinthe, bittersweet nectar of poets, this fragrance gives an initial burst of Orange Blossom then blossoms into a heart of Turkish Rose. Then swirling woody notes of Patchouli and Oak Moss join with lascivious Amber. The fragrance beckons one to enjoy a Garden of Delights, an astonishing olfactory oxymoron combining the freshness of Lavender from southern France and the warmth of Bourbon Vanilla.
Tempt Me
This fragrance features the warm, enfolding balsamic notes of Oud, a legendary wood said to be "worth more than its weight in gold". Beneath the pseudoinnocence displayed by Bergamot from Calabria, the seduction trap closes…courtesy of Centifolia Rose and woody heart notes. Papyrus, Vetiver from Haiti and Guaiacum Wood provide hints of mystery and elegance and then comes a grand
finale of warm, sensuous Styrax and Castoreum.
Kilian Hennessy, heir to a long line of cognac-makers that were pioneers in luxury, the grandson of the founder of The LVMH Group, Kilian decided to take up the torch of family tradition. Creating a new luxury brand was definitely a challenge worthy of his forbears! Only superlative products allowed! His childhood haunts included the family cellars in Cognac. Before graduating from CELSA (School of Higher Studies in the Information and Communication Sciences at the Sorbonne) he wrote a thesis on the semantics of odours in search of a language common to gods and mortals. In search of the "angels' share", he encountered the world of perfumery. The "angels' share" is what the House of Hennessy calls the percentage that - inexplicably - evaporates from cognac cellars, like an offering to the gods. One can well imagine angels stealing a few moments to savour those heady, forbidden scents! Kilian's fragrances are redolent of the sugar in alcohol and the wood of cognac barrels. After graduating from a university program in communication and language sciences, he trained with the greatest noses in perfumery: Alberto Morillas, Jacques Cavallier, Thierry Wasseur and especially Calice Becker. He chose to work in marketing, a natural choice that allowed him to combine all of his interests. He worked for great perfume houses such as Dior, Paco Rabanne, Alexander McQueen and Giorgio Armani. But even a rich and varied marketing career wasn't enough. He yearned to return to his first love: creation. Pure, divine and incandescent. His love for perfumes was insatiable and he needed to surrender completely, body and soul. So he decided to launch his own brand. It would reflect his personality and achieve a perfect alliance between elegance and absolute, uncompromising luxury.
"My goal is to create fragrances with powers as much of seduction as of protection." - Kilian Hennessy
Hors La Monde and Symine Salimpour at Aedes
Hors Lá Monde, established by Symine Salimpour, and its debut fragrance, Shiloh, is
created by the renowned perfumer Michel Roudnitska. The name of the line, which translates as
Out of This World, signifies the beauty that is powerful, intense and universal. Inspired by the
idea of such universal beauty, the Hors Lá Monde fragrances, just like the wonderful jewelry
which first made the brand famous, represent the harmony of fragility and strength and exemplify
the elegant and natural way of being.
ANDY WARHOL SILVER FACTORY
by Bond No. 9
By Mark David Boberick
NOTES:
Top: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Lavender
Heart: Violet, Incense, Jasmine, Iris
Base: Amber, Wood Resin, Cedarwood
Andy Warhol is alive and well and living in a fabulous
perfume bottle. The first collaboration between the Andy
Warhol Foundation and Bond No. 9, the edgy, extremely
successful downtown perfumery is sure to impress.
Incense lovers: pay attention!
What may seem like an odd marriage actually makes a lot
more sense than you might think. Andy Warhol loved perfume.
He once said, “Another way to take up more space is with
perfume. I really love wearing perfume.” This year marks the
20th anniversary of his death and what better way to continue
to celebrate one of the most influential artists of the 20th century
than with a series of Warhol inspired fragrances. Behold Silver
Factory.
Bond conceived Silver Factory as “a smooth, smoky, spicy
blend of interlacing incense – a key scent of the ‘60s.”
Created by Aurelien Guichard, Silver Factory opens with a lot of bergamot. Bond describes the bergamot as being “soft and gentle – as if it had a hangover,” and I couldn’t agree more. It mingles beautifully with the already present incense, right away setting the mood for this fragrance as being calm, cool, and collected. The lavender and the grapefruit in the opening are minimal to my nose, making their appearance only for several brief seconds at a time. In a few minutes the overture has finished and the curtain is now up. Andy Warhol’s favorite scent, violet starts to emerge. It is not a strong violet, and like all of the florals in this fragrance, it is supported by the incense. From the very start of this fragrance, there is a definite metallic quality – and there would have to be, right? The silvery Iris and the sultry jasmine are never strong, but they are there. It is around this time that things start to warm up. The Incense is full, sultry, and smoky and it supports the dissonant florals which are now like “warmed-up, molten silver.” The rather extraordinary part of this fragrance emerges around this time, about an hour after application – when things are both warm and cool – we have the metallic coolness paired with the warmth and smokiness of the incense with the florals vying for sides – not sure where they belong. It is absolutely breathtaking. The drydown is a simple, soothing aroma of resiny amber with a touch of cedarwood. Nothing strong, nothing different either, but very nice.
The Factory was Andy Warhol’s original studio on 47th Street in New York City from 1964-1968. It was called the Silver Factory because it was decorated in silver paint and tin-foil by Warhol’s friend Billy Name, whose own apartment was seen by Warhol who then requested Name repeat the décor to his Studio. Name also used shattered mirrors and Warhol would often bring in silver balloons to float around the ceiling. At the Factory, Warhol threw groundbreaking parties for the hip, artsy types. It was also here that Warhol created and mass-produced his art. The Factory, and especially its silver-skin represented the decadence of the 1960s.
Decadent? Yes, Bond’s new creation is indeed decadent – but it favors the more luxurious aspect of the word. It is luxuriously priced at $230 for a 100 ml bottle making it the most expensive Bond creation to date. The reason? Bond has never been shy about their perfumes – they are very quick to tell you the percentage of perfume oil in their eau de parfums – much higher than other fragrance companies. With Silver Factory, however, Bond has gone above and beyond their standard, already high percentage of 22 percent to make Silver Factory a 28 percent concentration. They are calling it just that, in fact – a Perfume Concentrate, much in the manner of a can of soup. Remember, we are also talking about Warhol here and one of the most recognizable images of Modern Art is the Campbell’s soup can which Warhol painted excessively. This “Condensed” perfume comes in a textured silver signature star-shaped bottle that has a myriad of Warhol references. Silver Factory’s label takes its inspiration from the soup can, but in true Warhol style, the colors have been psychedelically flipped into a world of turquoise and purple. The Bond subway token, substitutes for the Campbell’s emblem, bridging the 2 color fields together. This bottle is kitschy – exactly what it should be. It never once compromises the artistic integrity of the perfumery or the artist but is a very happy solution to the marriage.
The fragrance is divine, the best new release from Bond No. 9 since Chinatown. It has excellent sillage and superb longevity. It is quite avant-garde and thank god for that. In a market dominated by fruity florals, it is refreshing to smell a smoky, heavy scent. This is time-warp in a bottle. Most importantly for me, this scent truly represents everything Andy Warhol stands for. It’s not just about creating an evocative atmosphere – which Silver Factory certainly does. It’s about taking something that we as perfume lovers all know – a smoky incense scent – and re-interpreting it, because this is exactly what Andy Warhol did. He took a photo of Marilyn Monroe and gave it back to us in 7 polychromatic different forms.
He took what we all know and spun it on its axis. This is precisely what Silver Factory has achieved; your typical Incense with a fascinating new twist.
Thank you Laurice Rahme and thank you Andy Warhol.
Andy Warhol Silver Factory will be released on December 1st and will be a limited
distribution scent available only at Saks Fifth Avenue and the four Bond No. 9
New York boutiques. It will also be available for purchase online at the Bond
and Saks websites. It is only available in one size, $230 for a 3.4 ounce bottle.
Mark David Boberick is a student studying Interior Design in Philadelphia. Mark David has been
aware of scent from a very young age and started collecting fragrances at age 12. A lover of art
and music, Mark David frequents museums, Theatre, and the Opera. He is also an accomplished
theatrical set designer having already amassed a large portfolio of work for only being 22 years old.
In 2006, Mark David established Atelier Mark David, his freelance design business based in
Philadelphia. Atelier keeps him busy with several side projects both Interior and Scenic which
he works on in his spare time. Mark David is happiest when he’s designing or sniffing. He
hopes to finish his schooling by earning his Masters Degree in Florence.
photographs courtesy of Bond. No 9 PR office
The limited edition flacon and atomizer created for the 100th anniversary of Neiman Marcus and signed and numbered by Olivier CREED. Available at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.
Raphaella, age 16, looking for Andy Warhol, NYC
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