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The last issue has been archived in "Interviews", Most Recent Articles, Natural Perfumers Page & Fragrance Reviews Vol 4.
If you have not seen Part One, Two and Part Three of the exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Fragrance and the Arts Series by Michelyn Camen, you can view here.
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January 6, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: An Interview with Camille Goutal,
Artistic Director; Annick Goutal Parfums,
we feature "Real Men Wear Violets" By Michael W. Davis and The Scent of a Woman: Verno Kern’s Rubj".
We continue this issue with "Milieu…The Fragrance for the New Year" and "An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn; Aedes Attains A Class Act With Une Histoire De Chypre" by Barbara vanBok.
We also offer the press release for the NEW
Bond No. 9 BROOKLYN fragrance and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews New York City Perfumer
Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis and we introduce
the new release of PureDistance Parfume with a Puredistance Perfume Lounge opening in Vienna.
November 20, 2008
In this issue we feature The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Two- Nest Fragrances,
Le Cherche Midi, and Joya with featured interviews, Cinquieme Sens opens an Olfactory training center in New York City, view the stunning Holiday ‘08 from Bond No. 9 and UNDER THE RADAR: Estéban; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Dominique Alison CEO . We feature Scents in the City: Clyde’s on Madison Fragrant Gems Amidst the Bobby Pins: An Interview with General Manager Rick Friedland and Blossom and Spice…and Everything Nice. We are also proud to feature in-depth interviews with two artisanal natural perfumers: Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums and an interview with Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery that includes a review; "Cat’s Meow" by Tonie Silver, Yves Rocher Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolute & Iris Noir and a new fragrance from Switzerland by Perfumer Brigitte Witschi, who created the new fragrance "edelweiss".
We share with you; The American Society of Perfumers Announces Honorees from its 2008 Perfumers’ Choice Awards, Nature’s Bounty: How to Smell ’Up’, Even When the Dow is Downnnnnnnnn; Just our Two Scents, Parlux Fragrances signs Queen Latifah and Aftelier’s Mandy AfteI Introduces Cassis. We offer Estée Lauder’s Vintage Jewels collection, Ormonde Jayne’s new multi-wick candle and new release of Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan, Chicago Entrepreneur launches “lifetherapy”, Strange Invisible Perfumes Holiday 2008 and Caron Paris Pays Tribute to Haute-Parfumerie with Montaigne Diamélite.
December 1, 2008
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Scentsational Holiday Gift Guide,
The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Three - Antica Farmacista, Archipelago Botanicals including interviews & "The Best of the Rest", Viva La Juicy…The Grown Up Fragrance, UNDER THE RADAR: An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Salvatore Piazzolla of Hampton Sun and Parfums Mercedes Jus d'Amour new fragrance review by Juvy Santos. We also feature UPTOWN GIRL: Perfumer / Aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opens new design studio & storefront in Boulder Colorado's fashionable district and "A Good Pre-Christmas Sniff at First In Fragrance, Germany" By Bettina d’Onofrio.
Finally, Sniffapalooza Magazine is proud to make a special announcement!
THE fragrance event of the season is fast approaching and the one and only fragrance legend, Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, has granted us an exclusive interview. We are thrilled to welcome MICHAEL EDWARDS in a rare appearance as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of his iconic fragrance reference books and revolutionary classification system at Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete. Don't miss our next issue for the video and written interview with Mr. Edwards by Mark David Boberick.
A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
Burning Down The House Series
The Influencers Speak
Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Jean Claude Ellena; In-House Perfumer of the House of Hermès, Michel Roudnitska, Mandy Aftel, Kilian Hennessy, Chandler Burr Perfume Critic for the New York Times, George Wuchsa-The Global E-tailer of First-In-Fragrance, Ron Robinson of Apothia, Andy Tauer, Yosh Han, Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood of LuckyScent, Vero Kern and Sarah Horowitz-Thran.
The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams of Sniffapalooza.com
Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz ‘Les Christophs’, Nobi Shioyo of
S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog.
Niche fragrance at its best is cutting edge, thought provoking and controversial. These are our anti-heroes and heroines of scent. Some are outspoken, some stay hidden in the shadows. All are unique.
Why did the sales of niche fragrances double within the last year and a half, while the commercial fragrance industry is losing ground? With nearly a thousand new launches a year, millions spent in advertising, flanker after flanker, what is happening to our fragrant world? I posed this question to a group of industry ‘influencers’ (les nez, the retailers, the niche and artisnal perfumers, the critics, the bloggers, and the owners of fine fragrance companies), who are leaving their thumbprints, as unique as their words, on the match that is burning down ‘the house of mediocrity’.
In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers and some of the greatest innovators in the Fragrance industry share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question:
“What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”
Their words are uncut, unplugged, unedited.
Serge Lutens
Laurice Rahmé
Frederic Malle
Jean Claude Ellena
In a series written exclusively for Sniffapalooza Magazine, prepare yourself for a multi sensory olfactive journey, where fragrances embrace the worlds of fiction, fine art, film, music and dance.
Tales, myths, and larger than life characters thrive in the world of perfumery and this is what makes perfumery mysterious, multifaceted, intriguing, magical, and forever wavering between fact and fiction. In Volume 1, Book 1i. we meet the niche ‘feminines’ who had most profound effects on us from both a literary and olfactive perspective.
In Volume 1, Book ii we meet a Cop and three Queens, a pampered socialite and a woman of ill repute, and an aging beauty and a Goddess. These fictional and/or iconic women span centuries and continents, blurring the lines between truth and fiction and time --- from the 10th century BC to the Year 2058. These are their fragrances; the scents that would bring them to life and live forever in the realm of our imagination.
Part 3 features Men in fiction – flawed as all men (and women) are, but men who dare to dream, to rule or to experience. Whether they are vilified or placed high atop a pedestal, here are five iconic men who 'lived' in a world long before our own time. These men will always resonate with us and are brought to life here through fragrance.
Real Men Wear…Violets
By Michael W. Davis
‘Shrinking’ is the first word that springs to mind when one mentions violets. Shrinkage is rarely a good thing in a man’s world. Another metaphor used with violets is ‘shy’; let’s just say a real man wants to be seen as daring. Time to clear up violets’ wallflower reputation.
When the Mongol-Tatar forces-- invaded Russia in the 13th century, they were constantly moving and lived off the land. According to Gmelin, a 17th century German scientist who explored Northern Persia, the Mongol-Tatars ate a thick soup made from violet roots that provided adequate sustenance as they advanced. My grandmother would say this soup will put “hair on your chest”.
Led by Batu Khan, a grandson of Gengis Khan, Mongol-Tatar armies destroyed many Russian cities including Kiev, Vladimir and Moscow. The advancing horde continued to the "Great Sea" (Atlantic Ocean). [Writer’s note: Violets can be ‘invasive’ because of their ability to spread quickly and overtake lawns and gardens. I find it interesting that this invasive plant provided fuel for an invasion.]
One of the world’s most famous military leaders, Napoleon Bonaparte, held a
lifelong passion for violets. Napoleon had fond memories of the sweet scent of the
violets that he remembered from his childhood in Corsica. His first wife, Josephine,
wore violets on her wedding day and Napoleon gave her violets each year on
their wedding anniversary. Ok, so real men are romantic; nothing wrong there.
It’s high time to cast aside the stereotype of the violet. They are flowers with
bold charm and strong roots. Violets have a sweetness that can charm an
emperor and roots hearty enough to feed an army. And to make one of the
most beautifully constructed fragrances of all time.
While in exile on the island of Elba, Napoleon secretly informed his friends that
he would return to France with the violets in the spring. His supporters adopted
the violet as a symbol of his returns and often referred to him as Caporal Violet
or La Père Violet. In addition, a popular postcard circulated during this time
depicted a bouquet of violets with hidden outlines of Napoleon, Marie Louise and
of their three year old son, Charles, King of Rome. Espionage…real men stuff…
Bois de Violette by Serge Lutens showcases the multifaceted nature of violets
better than any fragrance I have worn. The violets and violet leaves in
Bois De Violette are bold, charismatic and command your attention;
a stalwart accord with powerful sustain. Although bold and resilient,
the violet notes provide a soft, sweet welcome for their woody, cedar partner.
In Bois de Violette, perfumer Christopher Sheldrake created a perfume
reminiscent of the sweet, Corsican violets of Napoleon’s childhood.
The crystalline confectionery sweetness of the violets is like a light sugar glaze.
The opening sweetness is quite potent but settles quickly without ever becoming
cloying. As the intense sweetness fades to a transparent glaze, a warm honeyed
cedar becomes evident but not dominant. Cedar and violet accords are blended
yet distinct as if they are bound in a helical spiral. Bois de Violette eventually
spirals down to a mildly spiced woody base that pays homage to its inspiration,
Shiseido Feminitè du Bois.
Credits: The Playful Eye by Julian Rothenstein and Mel Gooding, 1999; Chronicle Books, SF. Original engraving by Canu: 1815.
Bois de Violette bottle image courtesy of Aedes Venustas and Serge Lutens website. Violet photograph courtesy of Culver Edu sigma/kappa. Additional images courtesy of Editor /Stock Photos. Photo of vintage shoes unkown.
Milieu…
The fragrance for the New Year
Now that the Christmas shopping is over for yet another year, you may be thinking about running to the mall for those after Christmas sales. Or, you may have hinted all year long about that special item you would love to receive for Christmas and to your surprise, you didn’t receive it! Don’t fret I have the perfect solution. It is new, glamorous and it will bring in the New Year with a blast of sensual floral notes of Jasmine, Rose, Ambergris, Patchouli, Gardenia and Ambriene.
Milieu, is the latest fragrance from the winter collection by Lissa Liggett Fine Perfumes. Lissa a Santa Barbara, California native is a cornucopia of producing elegant fragrances. She was intrigued with the world of perfumery at a very early age and now this accomplished perfumer starts with formulating a fragrance with small batches to insure the highest quality is produced. Only certified organic grape alcohol or jojoba oils are used as the base for all of her perfume formulas. Precious absolutes, resins, essential oils and attars are globally sourced and animal musk's are never used. So, if you are thinking about running around your local mall for this fragrance, you won’t find it there. Milieu is so exclusive that it can be found only at certain boutiques in the Santa Barbara area such as Lily Angel, Wendy Foster Downtown, Upstairs at Pierre La Fond and Porch just to name a few but if you cannot get to one of those boutiques, simply go to LissaLiggett.com to place an order.
New Years Eve to me represents out with the old and in with the new and there is no better way than to approach the new year with a new exclusive fragrance that will accompany that black, sparkling dress than a bottle of Milieu. Oh it is not cheap. It cost $120.00 for a 55ml spray eau de parfum. But since I recommend this for a grand New Years Eve party it will go great with that bottle of Dom Perignon. So, don’t wait until the clock strikes twelve. Just savor the moment, glance back at the past briefly and welcome the new year with a spritz of Milieu.
By: Felicia M. Hazzard
The Scent of a Woman:
Vero Kern’s Rubj
Every year, five or six hundred new perfumes come onto the market – most of them a result of large-scale production by multinational corporations and distributed on the mass market.
With the width of niche, there are so many new and confusing offerings that true artisnal talents sometimes can get lost in all the clutter. Fortunately there are exceptions; Vero Kern, the founder, perfumer and owner of vero.profumo.
Vero is an independent perfumer, trained by Monique Schlienger at Cinquième Sens in Paris (as was also Lyn Harris from Miller and Harris). Monique Schlienger herself was trained by Jean Carles, considered by many to be one of the greatest perfumers of the last century (Shocking Schiaparelli, Tabu, Canoe...). After five years of creation time, Vero launched, a small, high-precision series comprising three niche fragrances, Onda, Kiki and Rubj. Each of these creations encapsulates a unique aspect of the feminine world in a miniature flacon. Each is a masterwork.
An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn;
Aedes Attains A Class Act With
Une Histoire De Chypre
By Barbara vanBok
I am traditionally not a Chypre wearer. With the exception of a couple dry roses and ones that stay green long past the initial welcome, Chypres have always been somewhat of an unknown quantity to me. Lovely at a distance and delicious on blotter, they are nevertheless, something that my skin just doesn’t seem to want to warm up to.
However, Aedes Une Histoire De Chypre is so well crafted and blended that it’s impossible not to at least be impressed by its beauty. While testing it I found each subsequent phase melds into the preceding one. The opening moves gracefully into the heart, and each stage of the heart unfolds quietly, the layers peeling back one by one, until you hardly realize you’ve moved into dryout.
This perfume starts out smelling extremely high-class and melts right into my skin. The opening touches on light, bright citrus, florals and greens. It is dry and smooth with just the right hint of sweetness from neroli- one of my most treasured blossoms- and as the fragrance warms, a slightly powdery, dry, soft, warm note is added.
The heart smells of juicy apricots with the strong, fresh note of expensive osmanthus. Floral and fruity at the same time, it adds a lush, ripe note over other exotic florals and the smooth, skin-melding recipe all ready brewing.
Now, on me, a true Chypre will take on a dry/dusty kind of note usually into the heart. Here Une Histoire did not disappoint. This combination of Chypre heart notes always reminds me of dried rose petals, old, wooden attics and vintage clothing.
Camille Goutal
(Batu Khan, invading Mongol leader)
Michael W. Davis is a writer and management consultant in Atlanta, Georgia. Michael has been collecting and testing fragrances for fifteen years, and is an active contributing member of Basenotes. Michael holds a B.S. in psychology, an M.S. in organizational behavior and focuses on behavior modification in corporate environments. Michael also studies the effects of fragrance from a social psychology perspective.
An opulent, beguiling perfume, but – and not just for the eccentric and flamboyant. Rubj is shy and wild at the same time. Although it has a very feminine signature it also smells terrific on “Boy’s” skin. And it gives a very seducing attitude to “Girls” wearing ‘Le Smoking’ “.
Writer’s Note: I love how the funky metal label contrasts with the 1940’s vintage shape of the flacons, so I asked Vero about her vision. For Vero, perfumes are love stories and multi faceted works of art. The flacon is just as important as the scent. Since standardised large-scale product flacons are almost the only type available on the market today, Vero employs a long-established glassworks company in Normandy that has been run by the same family for more than a hundred years, and where the glass is fired in old-fashioned ovens. She uses the old method of dying the amber fonce glass (which protects the scent from light) right through, instead of simply spraying the colour on. The shape of the flacon that emerges is the dichotomy of the feminine, - up-to-the-minute, traditional, unpredictable, and most importantly sensual.
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By Michelyn Camen
The effect is sensual, erotic and alluring. Perhaps none more sensuous on skin as my personal favourite, the enigmatic Rubj.
In my conversation with Vero, she describes Rubj as the duality of a woman, the scent of our yin and our yang. “This is Rubj, Michelyn! Notes of Sweet orange blossom from Morocco, wear a mellifluous shimmery dress of the finest notes of musk, and are earnestly courted by tempting Egyptian jasmine. An auspicious alliance, indeed. Rubj is a rendezvous in Sheikh Nefzaoui’s tome of Arabian Erotology, The Perfumed Garden – a place of secret obsessions and consuming passions.”
Deep into the heart, the patchouli note starts to rise along with the Bulgarian rose. The combo is warm, spicy, mossy, sweet- nearly gourmand it is so mouthwateringly delicious, with the osmanthus still giving up its fruity edge. This blend almost wanders into the land of Oriental on my skin, yet retains the aristocratic air that always seems to define Chypre to me: dry, mossy and just a little dusty.
While there is no mention of a leather note in this perfume, on me, the deep heart speaks of leather. While on blotter; I didn’t get a trace of it. So much did it smell like leather on me, it reminded me of Bandit Eau de Parfum, without the green note. Here the fragrance really starts to warm. It becomes stronger. The patchouli note is spicy, dry, ambery. So much warmer than the beginning of the fragrance, it’s nearly a different perfume at this point. Once again, each stage is so subtle that you never realize you’re heading toward it until you are already there.
The end heart and beginning dryout is sweeter, and darker. On my skin it is strong and the way Chypres typically behave on me: dusty, dry, rosy, leathery and a little harsh. On blotter it is smooth, perfumey, mossy, sweet, a little fruity, clovey, warm, spicy and oh, so very well blended. If Coco Chanel parfum were a Chypre, this is how it would smell. The kind of fragrance you just want to keep inhaling.
The final dryout is dark, mossy, floral and sweeter than the opening would have led you to believe. While the ingredients don’t necessarily give it away at first glance, with the addition of osmanthus, I’d have to class this one as a Fruity Chypre. The osmanthus remains strong and potent throughout the blend and lasts nearly till the end, especially on skin.
While I will probably never have the pedigree to pull this one off, if you wear Fruity Chypres well, you at least owe yourself a sample of this exquisite elixir. Supposedly based off of an old Molinard recipe, Aedes and world class perfumer, Dominique Camilli, didn’t skimp at all when it comes to ingredients.
A class act from first spray to finish, Fruity Chypre lovers should be purring with satisfaction when they catch a whiff of Une Histoire De Chypre.
Notes Include:
Bergamot, Mandarin, Neroli, Jasmine and Galbanum.
Jasmine, Bulgarian Rose, Osmanthus and Iris.
Patchouli, Oakmoss, Musk and Amber.
Available exclusively at Aedes.com. 3.3 oz. Eau de Parfum, $225.00 US.
Barbara M. W. vanBok is a long time member and moderator of the Perfume of Life, where she goes by the name Artisankey. She is a life long lover of perfume and perfumery, and a 16 year veteran of aromatherapy. She is a musician, graphic artist, and dancer, and lives with her husband and two dogs in Bath, Maine.
Bond No 9
Brooklyn, the Eau de Parfum
Captures the Vibe of the Edgy New Brooklyn—
Home to Artists, Bloggers, & Creative Types.
Brooklyn is changing. New York’s legendary city within a city, home to a century or more of
strivers, dreamers, and Nobel laureates, is reinventing itself, neighborhood by neighborhood, as
an edgy metropolis. Sure, for a while there Brooklyn was a necessary second choice for the real
estate-challenged Millennials seeking affordable rents and more square footage than formidable
Manhattan could offer. But now— a whole new story. Today’s Brooklyn is preferable to a new
generation of artistic émigrés. This is where the artists and musicians choose to move. It’s home
to graffiti-ists, gaffers, and key grips, to web designers and aspiring editors. This is where fashion
stylists live. New York-bound hip-and-cool Seattle-ites prefer to move to Brooklyn; smart
Stockholmers book their hotel rooms here.
Now don’t get us wrong. The creative new Brooklynites are no mere space invaders.
They’re creating their own lifestyle and sense of community, while loving the built-in amenities—
Prospect Park and the Bandshell, the Brooklyn Museum, BAM—the Brooklyn Academy of Music,
the West Indian Day Parade, McCarren Park. And where are their neighborhoods?
DUMBO, Greenpoint, and Bushwick, with their industrial lofts. Thoroughly Gen-Y-ified Williamsburg.
Park Slope with its brownstones. Red Hook, with its cobblestone streets. And now moving inland,
mansion-filled Midwood.
And of course, the newcomers are proud to occupy terrain that’s produced literary types from
Walt Whitman to Paul Auster, composers like Aaron Copeland, auteurs like Spike Lee, and a
multitude of comedians (Mel Brooks, Woody Allen, and Chris Rock, to name a few). So it’s no surprise that Brooklyn is revered, and that the natives retain deep emotional attachments even decades after they leave.
But something was needed in dynamic new Brooklyn: Its own eau de parfum, which Bond No. 9 has now designed. Unisex with a desirably masculine attitude, Brooklyn the scent is romantic, sexy, and distinctive—built in a very contemporary way to display its entire composition, rather than individual notes. But OK: For those who want us to name names, it’s officially a woody, spicy-filled oriental that mingles cardamom, geranium leaves, and cedarwood while grapefruit and juniper leaves accelerate the scent, and South American guaiacwood and leather bring a tender, beckoning touch. On the cutting-edge of perfumery, Brooklyn also has what’s known in the trade as sillage, which is to say, it doesn’t cling to the skin, but rather diffuses, leaving a trail behind it.
The Brooklyn bottle’s design marks a first for the iconic Bond No. 9 superstar flacon: We’ve decorated directly onto the transparent glass surface with edgy, urban, handwritten script. With the words BROOKLYN and BOND NO. 9 spelled out in a vivid array of colors, this is an example of contemporary street art with a message. In fact, the dynamic lettering transcends the Bond No. 9 centerpiece token logo it’s meant to be enclosed in—and almost seems to take off beyond the curved and angled shape of the bottle itself.
Brooklyn, the eau de parfum, is available in two sizes: 100ml and 50 ml, at Bond No. 9’s four New York City boutiques, www.bondno9.com, 877.273.3369, and at Saks Fifth Avenue nationwide. Launch date: March 2008
Suggested Retail Price: $220 for 100ml; $145 for 50ml
Sniffapalooza Magazine interview with New York City perfumer
Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis
by Raphaela Barkley
Alexis Karl brings an artist's sensibility to the world of scents. A classically trained painter, who received her masters from the New York Academy of Art and studied the fine art of gilding at Palazzo Massimo in Rome, she has marked her presence in the New York art scene with seven-foot tall realistic paintings of nude women, painted from life. In 2005 she launched Scent by Alexis, her collection of oil-based perfumes.
Hand-blended oil-based fragrances are held within bottles hand-gilded with 22k gold and crushed leaf. Each bottle is unique and one-of-a-kind. The combination of a classic decorative approach with a modern, urban sensibility speaks to the new collectors' desire for perfume as art. The line is New Romantic in style. Sensual, erotically charged names like Venus in Furs, Courtesan, Vixen and Femme Fatale dare the wearer to to enwrap herself in the character of her fragrance.
Scent By Alexis approaches fragrance as fine art. Often inspired by paintings, literature and music, the scents linger between a conceptual artistic world, and that of the creative olfactory. Scents and bottles are original, unusual and sexy.-web site
Alexis, can you tell us briefly about yourself and your business?
I am a classically trained figurative painter, and my line; Scent by Alexis is based on the idea of perfume as art. My oil-based scents are very potent, and are held within hand gilded and hand blown glass bottles. I like to present an alternative to commercial perfume, in that each scent is blended and poured by hand into hand blown or hand decorated bottles. In addition to my existing line, I offer a number of “speakeasy” scents. These fragrances are only word of mouth, and not on my website. They are introduced to a few clients who than pass the word to other clients. This is my idea of underground perfumery! I also offer custom scents for private clients in which I create a one of a kind fragrance for an individual. These are my favorites as they are portraits in scent, and bespeak of the individuals personality.
Could you please tell us a bit about your background leading up to your career in perfumery?
As I had mentioned, I am a painter, and have also been a glider and exhibition designer. I was working within a notable fragrance house, executing in house exhibitions and alternative environments to present new fragrances, and became entranced by the perfumers who worked there. I was very interested in learning about fragrance at that point, yet wanted to approach fragrance from the outside- as an independent perfumer. While the commercial route to becoming a perfumer is time honored and auspicious, as an artist, I require ultimate freedom and control. I loved the idea skirting trends and market testing- to back away from traditional advertising and commercial creation of scents. My interest was to recall an old world idea of perfumery- when perfumers were called in to consult with private clients, and when it was considered a fine art.
The interesting thing is that the perfumers working for large fragrance companies are certainly great artists, yet are hidden behind large brands. They are genius artists without exhibitions.
There must have been a defining moment that led you to become a perfumer. How did that happen?
I was in between painting shows here in NYC, and I honestly had no money to buy perfume, though couldn’t conceive of living without it… not for one day! So I gathered the cash I had in hand and ran to a local health food store and bought a few essential oils. I remember them quite well- Ylang Ylang, Clove and Jasmine. I ran to my painting studio and created my formula, held in an almond oil base. I added a dash of pure vanilla extract and had my first scent, which I called Sex Kitten. I wore it out that night, and asked a dear friend in the fragrance world if it smelled Ok, and his reaction set my course. He loved it and was amazed I created it on my own. That affirmation, and my desire to gild perfume bottles pushed me into the direction of niche fragrance.
Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve created.
There are a few favorites. I am very fond of Venus in Furs, though I do not like how it smells on my own skin. I adore it on others though and love the concept of light and dark that the fragrance is based upon. Speaking of light and dark, I am very proud of two “speakeasy” scents called White Magick and Black Magick. They both have anis in the recipe and balance well together yet are so very different. White Magick is light and creamy, with vanilla and white floral, while Black Magick is earthy- with herbs and roots one would find in the forest. Finally, I really love Black Valentine. This is a warm, sweet scent, of caramel, brown sugar and hints of tuberose. The name is from a song my husband sings in his hard rock band. When I wear it, it reminds me of a rock club- a little dangerous, dark and seductive.
As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?
I find my inspiration in everything from paintings to literature. Music is a huge inspiration as well.
From Opera to Glam rock, I can always find my perfume muse when listening to music.
A mid-1880's book and a Velvet Underground song of the same name inspired Venus in Furs.
Femme Fatale was inspired by a genre of 1930’s Hollywood cinema, while Courtesan found its inspiration
in 18th century paintings of Fragonard. My friends are often my muses in painting and perfume, and often I will create scents that a specific friend has inspired.
What was your favorite fragrance growing up?
I would have to say my favorite fragrance growing up was Enigma by Alexander De Markoff. This was my Mothers fragrance. It pervaded the house, the clothes, even our cats smelled of Enigma. It smelled amazing on my mother. Her skin makes that scent bloom. An interesting aside- She refuses to wear it now. She will only wear my scents, her favorite being Diva, which I created for her.
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever smelled?
I have smelled so many amazing fragrances. It’s hard to choose. I will say one of my favorites, and a huge inspiration for me is Annick Goutal’s Charlotte. It is so warm and delicate. It has traces dark sweetness, which I adore. To me, it is a perfect scent.
Why do you think so many women and men are part of this fragrance explosion, especially the green and natural trend?
People want a more personal approach to fragrance. The large companies make fragrances that target a mass market. But honestly, who wants to smell like the rest of the nation? Consumers want to be treated as individuals- special. That’s where niche fragrance comes in, both natural and synthetic. The desire to be one of a hundred rather than one of thousands of people wearing a scent is a powerful notion. I have put out scents where I have 20 bottles. That’s it. 20 people in the world will have this scent and no one else, ever. It’s my way of offering artwork in the form of perfume.
While I am not a natural perfumer, the trend is an important one, and one I independent perfumers can address. Of course it should be understood that not all essential oils are safe to use. Just because it is pure does not mean it can be worn on the skin- many oils burn or cause photosensitivity, and so the natural perfumer must have great knowledge of ingredients. The Synthetics often have elements of essential oils yet they are tempered with carrier oils and the fragrance oils themselves have been tested and produced specifically for safe use on skin.
Is there anything else you would like our readers to know about you or your perfumes that we
have not discussed?
If you are reading this you are already part of an amazing society of perfume lovers who seek different
and interesting products. I thank you for that. Independent perfume companies such as my
own are held together by your support and interest.
I am as much a painter as a perfumer. Many of my paintings correspond with the scents, and both
disciplines serve to inspire one another. If anyone would like to see my paintings, you can visit my site
at the following address: http://www.alexispalmerkarlart.wordpress.com
Where are your fragrances available for sale?
My fragrances are available at numerous locations, my favorites being La Crème Beauty in Seattle and Butterflies
Zebras and Moonbeams in NYC. I am also involved with special events and trunk shows at Henri Bendel,
which is a great way to try out the line and talk with me!
I have recently added a movie that was created for my line by Jorge Colombo and Angela Harriel.
Its truly spectacular, and I would like to invite everyone to view it. It is what my line is all about- Art!
Violet postcard circulated during Napoleon’s exile. Can you find the three hidden faces of Napoleon, Marie Louise and their Son? The print shown is from an engraving by Canu in 1815.
Copies were circulated among the supporters of the exiled Emperor. They would toast, "Corporal Violet."
New release
PureDistance Parfume
and Puredistance
Perfume Lounge
opens in Vienna
Discover the true exclusivity of Puredistance
Perfume and the Puredistance Perfume
Lounge in Vienna Does true exclusivity still
exist in the world of luxury fragrances?
It certainly does. In Vienna.
Puredistance proofs truly exclusive and
timeless perfumes still exist.
After 5 years of passionate product development Puredistance recently launched a limited edition
Crystal Masterpiece that holds a wonderful perfume: ‘Puredistance I’.
A CRYSTAL MASTERPIECE MADE OF PURE SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL
This one of a kind Crystal Masterpiece consists of a stylish Crystal Column with a crystal cap made of Swarovski crystal and 24 carat gold. Both the Column and the cap are engraved with a unique number. The result is one of the world’s most exclusive perfumes: limited edition only.
‘Puredistance I’ the perfume is the creation of Annie Buzantian, a world renowned Perfumer from New York. Initially she had created the perfume for herself as her personal masterpiece. The words that inspired her were elegance, sophistication and timelessness.
A SECRET IN THE HEART OF VIENNA: THE PUREDISTANCE PERFUME LOUNGE
Puredistance, a privately owned company, has its headquarters in the Puredistance Perfume Lounge in the heart of Vienna. Why Vienna? Vienna is pure in many ways and its beauty timeless. Puredistance shares the philosophy of the Wiener Werkstätte – a movement that flourished in the early 20th. century in Vienna - to focus on timelessly elegant and beautiful design for a select market. And in the best tradition of the Wiener Werkstätte fine arts, architectural arts and decorative arts are all united in the Puredistance Perfume Lounge.
Entering the Puredistance Lounge is nothing less than a stunning experience due to its mystical atmosphere and simple beauty. The concept of creating a central meeting place where people that are attracted to the concept of Puredistance can meet in an informal atmosphere was the reason for establishing the Puredistance Lounge in Vienna. The Lounge is located at the well known Franziskanerplatz; one of the most central and authentic squares in Vienna.
The suggested retail price of the ‘Crystal & Gold’ Limited Edition including the perfume spray is 2.750 euro, the ‘Crystal & Steel’ Limited Edition including the perfume spray 1.750 euro. A 17.5 ml. perfume refill costs 165 euro.
The fragrance concept is available in the Puredistance Perfume Lounge in Vienna, in selected stores worldwide.
and online at www.puredistance.com If you want to know more about Puredistance, visit the Perfume Lounge or read the full story at www.puredistance.com where you can download the 160 page Puredistance Book 2008.
Puredistance - Franziskanerplatz 6, Vienna. Tel. +43 1 513 5518
Currently Puredistance is sold by some well known luxury stores: 10 Corso Como in Milan, Taizo in Cannes, Quartier 206 in Berlin, Swarovski Crystal World in Wattens, Lirouage in Moscow and soon Harrods in London.
Annie Buzantian, Masterperfumer Puredistance
Puredistance Perfume Lounge Vienna
The perfume opens as top note with a fresh, ozone-tangerine blossom blend with a hint of cassis, complemented with neroli bigarade and crisp watery nuances.
The heart of the fragrance warms to a sophisticated, modern blend of magnolia, rose wardia & jasmine; parmenthia & natural mimosa, before finally settling softly into the rich classical notes of sweet amber, vetiver and white musk.
The Perfumer; Annie Buzantian, Master Perfumer at the fragrance house Firmenich is the creator of Puredistance I and some of the most successful fragrances of the decade.
Annie Buzantian was first exposed to the exotic ingredients of perfumery in Constanza, Romania, where she was born. Later Annie Buzantian spent time in Lebanon, surrounded by the beautiful flowers of the Mediterranean, a memory that continues to inspire her to this day.
Annie Buzantian’s career began by training with Elie Roger, one of the most famous and demanding Master Perfumers. In recognition of her enormous successes, Annie Buzantian was awarded the title Master Perfumer in 1998. On top of that she was presented with the Lifetime Achievement Award by the American Society of Perfumers (ASP). Annie Buzantian originally created ‘Puredistance I’ for herself and still considers it her Personal Masterpiece. When by chance she learnt about the concept of Puredistance, she felt the two belonged to each other and ‘Puredistance I’ was born.
Puredistance Perfume Lounge Vienna
Sander Sinot - Designer Crystal Column
With Alexis at Henri Bendel
An Interview with
Camille Goutal
Artistic Director;
Annick Goutal Parfums
Annick Goutal Parfums is one of the original independent niche perfumeries, created in the 1980s by the legendary Annick Goutal. In this exclusive interview with the Company’s Artistic Consultant Camille Goutal, (Ms. Goutal’s daughter) we get an insider’s view of the complex relationships between scent and memory, tradition and innovation and mother and daughters, as well as Camille Goutal’s personal memories of one of the most innovative and influential women of modern fragrance.
MC: Please give our readers a brief overiew of Annick Goutal Parfums
CG: Annick Goutal is a Perfumery House, guided by the values of its creator and characterized by its remarkable sophistication and the excellent quality of its raw materials. Annick Goutal’s secret lies in its talent for transforming emotions into fragrances. Each unique creation represents a moment of happiness, a treasured emotion, or a powerful memory connected to a significant event or even a loved one.
MC: What is your first olfactive memory?
CG: Growing up with my mother, every moment was tied to scent. Whether it was hours spent playing in the lab experiencing each raw ingredient, or walking the lavender fields. Scent is a part of every memory.
MC: Annick Goutal was the first woman to lead niche perfumery ... what is her favorite memory of her mother?
CG: I remember having breakfast in bed with my mother on Sunday mornings and cuddling up against her. I loved the smell of coffee and toasted bread in our house, the feeling of calm and happiness.
MC: Did you always wanted to be in the family business?
CG: I first wanted to become a photographer but fragrance as also a passion for me at a very young age. I involved myself in the creative process as much as I could.
MC: How has the brand changed over the years, managing to flourish when there are thousands introduced and discontinued every year?
CG: People have a passionate love for the brand. Each fragrance has stood the test of time because they speak so clearly to the women and men that covet them. The company has always been a labor of love, and I believe that clients can sense that.
MC: What is Camille's signature fragrance? What was Annick's?
CG: If I had to pick one, I would say Songes. It was the first scent that I created. I love white flowers and powdery scents.
My mother was fond of roses, and created Ce Soir ou Jamais in their honor. This perfume was her dream and her quest.
MC: What inspired last year’s ‘scentsational’ collection… Les Orientalistes?
CG: It was mainly the rough material. My inspiration came from materials: the texture of an oriental fabric, the resine ingredients and the color used in the oriental paintings. I was fascinated by the fact that the orientalist painters use their imagination to depict a harem scene as they were not allowed to enter in a harem. They were in the same spirit state than we are when we compose. I was also touched by the sensuality depicted in the oriental paintings and I wanted to create very sensual and warm perfumes.
MC: Does art, music, travel or any other sensory experience inspire her creative?
CG: As you probably know our perfumes are the reflection of our lives, the people we met, and the people we love. We launch a perfume when we have finally succeeded to describe the emotion we have chosen. I find it really interesting when people, wearing my creation, share my feelings! You convey a message. I am so pleased when I see mothers buying Petite Cherie (little darling) for their daughters. It is the same love declaration that my mother did to me when created this perfume.
MC: Please tell the story of Petite Cherie...
CG: My mother created this perfume for me when I was 20 to mark the special time in life when a girl becomes a young woman. Petite Cherie or “my little darling,” is a fresh combination of fruity and floral ingredients including peach, musk rose, pear, fresh cut grass and vanilla. The fragrance was created as a symbol of a mother’s love for her child.
MC: Do you have a daughter. If so is she interested in perfumery?
CG: I have 2 daughters. They're 6 and 9 and like wearing perfumes. They steal mine in our bathroom as soon as I turn my back... Especially the little one who literally "bathes" herself in Vanille Exquise...
POSTSCRIPT: According to WWD, Annick Goutal Parfums plan to introduce a new fragrance in 2009----
Un Matin d’Orage. With the assistance of Isabelle Doyen, (their house perfumer) this new fragrance will debut in February, and captures a Japanese garden after a storm. Un Matin D Orange is composed of many diverse notes----Gardenia, Sicilian Lemon, Perilla Leaves, Ginger, Magnolia, Jasmine Sambac and Indonesian Champaca.
“Imagine yourself in a Japanese garden -- not a Buddhist Zen-type place, but a real garden with lots of greenery -- and smell the plants, leaves and white flowers after a storm as the sun creates a scented mist.”
Writer’s Note: I have been wearing Heure Exquise since its creation in 1984. With its rich orris and rose heart notes and powdery sandalwood drydown, it is quintessentially elegant and as fresh today as it was twenty five years ago..
Annick Goutal Parfums must be experienced in person. There is no better person to help you through this delightful journey than Tom Crutchfield, who is the Business Manager for the brand at Bergdorf Goodman NY. Contact Tom at 212-872-2768
by Michelyn Camen
A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
December 15, 2008
In this issue we feature "Fragrance for the Designated Driver: ‘Spritzers’ That Leave Us Giddy", we welcome a new guest contributor, Elena Vosnaki features a in-depth article "Jean Claude Ellena Is All About The Dirt!", "A Holiday Treat, an interview with the incomparable Monsieur Olivier Creed , "A Tale of Two Cities: Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne" By Michael W. Davis and we feature the continuing series UNDER THE RADAR: Red Flower; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Founder and Owner,
Yael Alkalay.
We continue this issue with Voluspa Floraison Collection: The Fragrances of Luxurious and Faraway Places, a new Bond No. 9 release called Boca, Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview the well-known Dominique Dubrana; Composer Perfumer of the Italian company La Via del Profumo, we offer a very warm welcome to John E. Smith, an author and herbalist with his article "Attars -Fragrances Of The Soul" and Bergdorf Blends Ajne for Blokes and finally, we end with my favorite "Christmas Present Fragrant Picks". We close out this issue with some photographs from the Sniffapalooza Holiday Fete last weekend in New York City with Michael Edwards and watch for our exclusive interview coming soon!
Jean Claude Ellena
Monsieur Olivier Creed
October 18, 2008
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City
In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House : The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris,
talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine. The House sizzles in this issue.
We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian by Michelyn Camen, Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel, Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses, Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Bringing Sexy Back , Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room and a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead and finally a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.
Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more. Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances and interviews.
Each article is full of photographs, so scroll down, click away, have fun and welcome to this special issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine Fall Ball.
Aurélien Guichard
November 9, 2008
In this issue we feature the finale of the spectacular must read series titled Burning Down the House: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz ‘Les Christophes’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances . The House continues to sizzle in this issue. We offer a warm welcome to Nathan Branch with his new article How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Unisex Fragrance or "Gee, You Smell Terrific!", Michelyn Camen introduces us to a new release from CREED - ‘LES FLORALIES’ which debuts in December, a new series debuts with Under the Radar: Cereus Pour Homme and Pour Femme and features an Exclusive Interview with Bill Rosenbaum, President, CB I Hate Perfume: Burning Leaves Autumnal Magic by Michael W. Davis, Pacifica Holiday Gifts Holiday 2008 Guide, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part One- BURN Candles, Saint Parfum Authentic Parfumeur and Amourelle Paris By Michelyn Camen and NEC-scent-SARY Luxuries and we introduce MUSIsCent, the first perfumed Album from musician Laurent Assoulen.
Sniffapalooza Magazine also Interviews Kedra Hart of Opus Oils, a fascinating look into her life and fragrances. We share with you an upcoming event in New York City featuring Chandler Burr from the New York Times and we are extremely proud to debut a new fragrance from Parfums Mercedes exclusive at Lucky Scent. Cathy Gins of Aromawear shares holiday information and a great idea for perfumistas and Juvy Santos enchants us with her "Sniffapalooza-thon" of the Fall Ball. We finish this issue with a link to many wonderful photographs from the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball from photographer and friend Michael Friedlander.
If you missed the huge Sniffapalooza Magazine FALL BALL NEW YORK CITY issue, full of exclusive photographs, reviews, article and interviews; you can view it in it's entirety. Please note that we have gone to a new format/layout for your viewing pleasure so please click on each section to view full page and each article.
Marie-Helene Rogeon
Dr. Avery Gilbert
Thierry Wasser
