In the 18th century, in Parma, Italia, there was fine printer and typographer named Giambattista Bodoni -- his work was called by many of his time and since, as the exemplar of sophistication in design. Beautiful books, exquisite typefaces, amazing sense of airiness and restraint. The type of our masthead is custom designed and hand-drawn by Tim Girvin and his team in NYC | Seattle, creating a perfection on the classics from centuries past, to a new revised and refined titling treatment -- just for us! Sniffapalooza Magazine Banner by Tim Girvin.
Sniffapalooza logo/banner: Bond No. 9 is a registered trademark of Laurice & Co. ©2008
The last issue has been archived in "Interviews", Most Recent Articles, Natural Perfumers Page & Fragrance Reviews Vol 4.
If you have not seen Part One, Two and Part Three of the exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Fragrance and the Arts Series by Michelyn Camen, you can view here.
November 20, 2008
In this issue we feature The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Two- Nest Fragrances,
Le Cherche Midi, and Joya with featured interviews by Michelyn Camen, Cinquieme Sens opens an Olfactory training center in New York City, view the stunning Holiday ‘08 from Bond No. 9 and UNDER THE RADAR: Estéban; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Dominique Alison CEO by Michelyn Camen. We feature Scents in the City: Clyde’s on Madison Fragrant Gems Amidst the Bobby Pins: An Interview with General Manager Rick Friedland by Michelyn Camen and Blossom and Spice…and Everything Nice by Felicia M. Hazzard. We are also proud to feature in-depth interviews with two artisanal natural perfumers: Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums and an interview with Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery that includes a review; "Cat’s Meow" by Tonie Silver, Yves Rocher Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolute & Iris Noir and a new fragrance from Switzerland by Perfumer Brigitte Witschi, who created the new fragrance "edelweiss".
We share with you; The American Society of Perfumers Announces Honorees from its 2008 Perfumers’ Choice Awards, Nature’s Bounty: How to Smell ’Up’, Even When the Dow is Downnnnnnnnn; Just our Two Scents By Michelyn Camen, Parlux Fragrances signs Queen Latifah and Aftelier’s Mandy AfteI Introduces Cassis By Michelyn Camen. We offer Estée Lauder’s Vintage Jewels collection, Ormonde Jayne’s new multi-wick candle and new release of Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan, Chicago Entrepreneur launches “lifetherapy”, Strange Invisible Perfumes Holiday 2008 and Caron Paris Pays Tribute to Haute-Parfumerie with Montaigne Diamélite.
December 1, 2008
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Scentsational Holiday Gift Guide By Michelyn Camen, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Three - Antica Farmacista, Archipelago Botanicals including interviews & "The Best of the Rest" by Michelyn Camen, Viva La Juicy…The Grown Up Fragrance By Felicia M. Hazzard, UNDER THE RADAR: An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Salvatore Piazzolla of Hampton Sun by Michelyn Camen and Parfums Mercedes Jus d'Amour new fragrance review by Juvy Santos. We also feature UPTOWN GIRL: Perfumer / Aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opens new design studio & storefront in Boulder Colorado's fashionable district and "A Good Pre-Christmas Sniff at First In Fragrance, Germany" By Bettina d’Onofrio.
Finally, Sniffapalooza Magazine is proud to make a special announcement! THE fragrance event of the season is fast approaching and the one and only fragrance legend, Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, has granted us an exclusive interview. We are thrilled to welcome MICHAEL EDWARDS in a rare appearance as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of his iconic fragrance reference books and revolutionary classification system at Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete. Don't miss our next issue for the video and written interview with Mr. Edwards by Mark David Boberick.
A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
Burning Down The House Series
The Influencers Speak
by Michelyn Camen
Sniffapalooza Magazine and Michelyn Camen interviews Jean Claude Ellena; In-House Perfumer of the House of Hermès, Michel Roudnitska, Mandy Aftel, Kilian Hennessy, Chandler Burr Perfume Critic for the New York Times, George Wuchsa-The Global E-tailer of First-In-Fragrance, Ron Robinson of Apothia, Andy Tauer, Yosh Han, Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood of LuckyScent, Vero Kern and Sarah Horowitz-Thran.
The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams of Sniffapalooza.com
Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz ‘Les Christophs’, Nobi Shioyo of
S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog.
Niche fragrance at its best is cutting edge, thought provoking and controversial. These are our anti-heroes and heroines of scent. Some are outspoken, some stay hidden in the shadows. All are unique.
Why did the sales of niche fragrances double within the last year and a half, while the commercial fragrance industry is losing ground? With nearly a thousand new launches a year, millions spent in advertising, flanker after flanker, what is happening to our fragrant world? I posed this question to a group of industry ‘influencers’ (les nez, the retailers, the niche and artisnal perfumers, the critics, the bloggers, and the owners of fine fragrance companies), who are leaving their thumbprints, as unique as their words, on the match that is burning down ‘the house of mediocrity’.
In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers and some of the greatest innovators in the Fragrance industry share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question:
“What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”
Their words are uncut, unplugged, unedited.
Serge Lutens
Laurice Rahmé
Frederic Malle
Jean Claude Ellena
In a series written exclusively for Sniffapalooza Magazine, prepare yourself for a multi sensory olfactive journey, where fragrances embrace the worlds of fiction, fine art, film, music and dance.
Tales, myths, and larger than life characters thrive in the world of perfumery and this is what makes perfumery mysterious, multifaceted, intriguing, magical, and forever wavering between fact and fiction. In Volume 1, Book 1i. we meet the niche ‘feminines’ who had most profound effects on us from both a literary and olfactive perspective.
In Volume 1, Book ii we meet a Cop and three Queens, a pampered socialite and a woman of ill repute, and an aging beauty and a Goddess. These fictional and/or iconic women span centuries and continents, blurring the lines between truth and fiction and time --- from the 10th century BC to the Year 2058. These are their fragrances; the scents that would bring them to life and live forever in the realm of our imagination.
Part 3 features Men in fiction – flawed as all men (and women) are, but men who dare to dream, to rule or to experience. Whether they are vilified or placed high atop a pedestal, here are five iconic men who 'lived' in a world long before our own time. These men will always resonate with us and are brought to life here through fragrance.
January 6, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: An Interview with Camille Goutal, Artistic Director; Annick Goutal Parfums, By Michelyn Camen,we feature the continuing series "Real Men Wear Violets" By Michael W. Davis and The Scent of a Woman: Verno Kern’s Rubj" by Michelyn Camen. We continue this issue with "Milieu…The Fragrance for the New Year" By: Felicia M. Hazzard and "An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn; Aedes Attains A Class Act With Une Histoire De Chypre" By Barbara vanBok. We also offer the press release for the NEW Bond No. 9 BROOKLYN fragrance and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews New York City Perfumer Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis, we introduce two new products; the new release of PureDistance Parfume and a Puredistance Perfume Lounge opens in Vienna, we close out with ExfoliShave.
January 13: Due to the overwhelming response to our interview with Camille Goutal, Ms. Goutal has expanded her interview and in this edition reveals many new personal insights.
Camille Goutal
DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae
photo credit: Zenobia Barlow
January 19, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: Jean-Claude Ellena Réinventés Vanilla; Hermès Hermessence Introduces Vanille Galante By Michelyn Camen, Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Exclusive Interview and breaking news item with Ms. DelRae Roth CEO, Creative Director of Parfums DelRae as she speaks of the latest fragrance Emotionelle with Michel Roudnitska By Michelyn Camen. We also feature The Magical Allure of Fragrances in Fairyland, A Perfume Review By Felicia M. Hazzard, Campos di Ibizia Reviews by Kathy Patterson, Another Birthday? Wear Grapefruit By Michelyn Camen, Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Trina Lewis Natural Perfumer, Founder and Director of HipLilly Aroma Couture™ and we finish this issue with The Allure of Amber by Michelyn Camen.
February 1, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive:
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others By Michelyn Camen that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'. Michelyn Camen interviewsSymine Salimpour, Founder and Owner of Hors Là Monde as she also introduces Lady Shiloh, Real Men Wear Perles by Michael Davis and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Mercedes Ganon of Parfums Mercedes Jus D’ Amour.
We feature Crazylibellule and the Poppies L’eau de Crazy Cologne, Diptyque opens new a boutique in New York City with exclusive Diptyque Roses Candle and you can Take an Olfactive Journey with Sue Phillips of Scenterprises/Perfume Studio. We offer to our readers Ginestet: Gets Sweeter With Time; The History, The Fragrance, The Aroma By Felicia M. Hazzard, Love Notes By Michelyn Camen, Kingsbury Fragrances Twilight Rose review By Raphaella Barkley, Ron Robinson introduces Pearl Eau De Parfum by Apothia Los Angeles and Ajne offers us Aphrodite honoring The Goddess of Love and for the men; Adonis. We close with The Naturals: Sniffapalooza Magazines Interview with Natural Perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfumes.
Mercedes Ganon
Symine Salimpour
October 18, 2008
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City
In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House by Michelyn Camen: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine. The House sizzles in this issue.
We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian by Michelyn Camen, Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel, Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses, Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Bringing Sexy Back By Michelyn Camen, Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room and a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead, Bringing Sexy Back By Michelyn Camen, a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices by Michelyn Camen and Michael W. Davis and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.
Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more. Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances and interviews.
Each article is full of photographs, so scroll down, click away, have fun and welcome to this special issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine Fall Ball.
Aurélien Guichard
Thierry Wasser
November 9, 2008
In this issue we feature the finale of the spectacular must read series titled Burning Down the House by Michelyn Camen: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz ‘Les Christophes’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog. The House continues to sizzle in this issue. We offer a warm welcome to Nathan Branch with his new article How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Unisex Fragrance or "Gee, You Smell Terrific!", Michelyn Camen introduces us to a new release from CREED - ‘LES FLORALIES’ which debuts in December, Michelyn Camen's new series debuts with Under the Radar: Cereus Pour Homme and Pour Femme and features an Exclusive Interview with Bill Rosenbaum, President, CB I Hate Perfume: Burning Leaves Autumnal Magic by Michael W. Davis, Pacifica Holiday Gifts Holiday 2008 Guide, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part One- BURN Candles, Saint Parfum Authentic Parfumeur and Amourelle Paris By Michelyn Camen and NEC-scent-SARY Luxuries By Michelyn Camen, we introduce MUSIsCent, the first perfumed Album from musician Laurent Assoulen.
Sniffapalooza Magazine also Interviews Kedra Hart of Opus Oils, a fascinating look into her life and fragrances. We share with you an upcoming event in New York City featuring Chandler Burr from the New York Times and we are extremely proud to debut a new fragrance from Parfums Mercedes exclusive at Lucky Scent. Cathy Gins of Aromawear shares holiday information and a great idea for perfumistas and Juvy Santos enchants us with her "Sniffapalooza-thon" of the Fall Ball. We finish this issue with a link to many wonderful photographs from the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball from photographer and friend Michael Friedlander.
If you missed the huge Sniffapalooza Magazine FALL BALL NEW YORK CITY issue, full of exclusive photographs, reviews, article and interviews; you can view it in it's entirety. Please note that we have gone to a new format/layout for your viewing pleasure so please click on each section to view full page and each article.
Marie-Helene Rogeon
December 15, 2008
In this issue we feature "Fragrance for the Designated Driver: ‘Spritzers’ That Leave Us Giddy" By Michelyn Camen, we welcome a new guest contributor, Elena Vosnaki features a in-depth article "Jean Claude Ellena Is All About The Dirt!", "A Holiday Treat, an interview with the incomparable Monsieur Olivier Creed by Michelyn Camen, "A Tale of Two Cities: Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne" By Michael W. Davis and we feature the continuing series UNDER THE RADAR: Red Flower; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Founder and Owner,
Yael Alkalay by Michelyn Camen.
We continue this issue with Voluspa Floraison Collection: The Fragrances of Luxurious and Faraway Places By Felicia M. Hazzard, a new Bond No. 9 release called Boca, Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview the well-known Dominique Dubrana; Composer Perfumer of the Italian company La Via del Profumo, we offer a very warm welcome to John E. Smith, an author and herbalist with his article "Attars -Fragrances Of The Soul" and Bergdorf Blends Ajne for Blokes and finally, we end with my favorite "Christmas Present Fragrant Picks". We close out this issue with some photographs from the Sniffapalooza Holiday Fete last weekend in New York City with Michael Edwards and watch for our exclusive interview coming soon!
Jean Claude Ellena
Monsieur Olivier Creed
March 1, 2009
In this issue we feature the upcoming Sniffapalooza Fragrance Fair in Germany on
March 20th - 22nd, 2009 in Düsseldorf and Cologne Germany, upcoming event PERFUME EXPO AMERICA 2009 in New York City, Bond No. 9 Announces Bottle Design Contest, Orange Blossom-The Other White Flower By Michelyn Camen, New fragrance release: Burren Perfumery, Over 35 years of luck in Ireland By Felicia M. Hazzard and we feature Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times By Michelyn Camen.
We also feature information about C-THRU, a new fragrance collection for young women, new fragrance release Fleur d’ Amour by Sylvie Beljanski, we give a warm welcome to new contributor Alisa Shorago with her Kristen Michèle Parfumeur’s Épice Orientale Fragrance Review, new fragrance Diesel For Life Unlimited, Estée Lauder introduces Bronze Goddess Fragrance, Beauty, Skincare and Lip Gloss Collection, Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz adds three new 'Aroma-Color' perfumes to Parfums des Beaux Arts Limited Edition Collection called TRUE COLORS and Regal, Remarkable and Romantic, The Reputation of Espiègle by Guepard By Felicia M. Hazzard. We also feature Raphaella's Roses Part Two and Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Natural Perfumer Persephenie.
February 12, 2009
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Perfumer Kristen Michèle of Kristen Michèle Parfumeur, an in-depth article about melon in fragrances called "Niche Meloncholy" By Elena Vosnaki, upcoming Guerlain releases, Love the Key to Life by Michelyn Camen and Parfums des Beaux Arts: A Gallery of Masterpieces featuring Dawn Spencer Hurwitz By Felicia M. Hazzard.
We also feature Raphaella's Roses, Ormonde Jayne now offers initial engraved bottles, online boutique Mio Mia is offering a free sample offer; Estée Lauder shows us Valentine’s Day Gifts, Viva La Ajne hits Las Vegas and Sniffapalooza Magazine features "The Naturals" with an interview with Julie Longyear of Irie Star/Blissoma.
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others By Michelyn Camen that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'.
Kristen Michèle
Color Me!
Design Me!
Dream Me!
Bond No. 9 Me
Baby!
Avery Gilbert
March 15, 2009
Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Issue, a Spectacular Fragrant Feast!
In this special Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Issue, we feature four breaking news items. Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusives... Turtle Bay SPAfumerie will introduce the re-launch of Futur de Robert Piguet during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling and we include a special note from Joe Garces, President of Robert Piguet Parfums, Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive; NEW Amouage Ubar will be unveiled during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling April 4 and 5th, 2009 at Bergdorf Goodman's and Aedes De Venustas. Christopher Chong, Amouage Creative Director and David Crickmore, CEO of Amouage will be there with Marlena Egan from EM Distribution to introduce the fragrance to Sniffapalooza members.
Aedes De Venustas to launch the newest fragrance Amouage Ubar as well as the new Molinard 160 with special guest; Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard, Owner of Molinard and Sabine Hernandez. Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard will attend both Henri Bendel and Aedes De Venustas to unveil 160, Molinard's New Anniversary fragrance. 160 The New Molinard Fragrance will be showcased in "avant-premiere' during the Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Event, April 4th, 2009 and will be released this summer.
In this issue, we feature an Interview with Roberto Ferreira from the House of Creed that include Creed Reviews For The Men by Christopher Voigt and Mark David Boberick and Reviews For Women, Real Men Wear...Lavender featuring Creed Royal Scottish Lavender by Michael W. Davis, we feature a very special DSH Perfume: The Road Less Traveled And What You Can Find There By Christine Lewandowski with comments by Sofia Lewandowski. We continue with a Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview By Raphaella with Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz as she talks about fragrance and inspiration. We feature the itinerary/schedule of events for the upcoming Sniffapalooza Spring Fling in New York City, Pretty in the City; The Paradox of Pretty By Michelyn Camen, Bond No. 9 Astor Place:Mesmerizing New Eau de Parfum which includes the exclusive news of the Pre-Sniff Party of the new Bond No. 9 Astor Place at Bond No. 9 during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling! We offer Bond No. 9 Fragrance Reviews of Brooklyn and Boca By Kathy Patterson and we are proud to feature the very beautiful Lisa Hoffman: Wife, Mother and Perfumer with a Mission, A Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview By Felicia M. Hazzard.
Read about KILIAN’S latest temptation, travel sprays for men and women, Hanae Mori Parfums Contest Winner, Guerlain new releases, Aedes De Venustas newest releases, GREENWITCH: In Honor to the White Lady, A Green Chypre Perfume By Roxana Villa, upcoming event at Turtle Bay SPAfumerie, review of Annick Goutal Un Matin D’Orage by Diane Artzberger, ONDE By Michelyn Camen, Gump's San Francisco NEW fragrance called Baroque Pearl, SCENTS FOR THE MIND: The Attars of Asia By John E Smith and finally end with Celebrity Fragrant Watch!
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Kilian Hennessy
April 15, 2009
In this special issue, we feature The Perfume of the Wind: An Interview With Jean-Claude Ellena with an Introduction by Michel Roudnitska By Michelyn Camen.
We also feature Niche, Nicher, Nichest: In Two Verses featuring interviews with Ralf Schwieger, Andy Tauer, Antonia Bellanca, Ron Robinson, Ulrich Lang, Gerald Ghislain, Beth Terry, Maria McElroy and Liz Zorn,
By Michelyn Camen, Roxana Villa’s Vespertina, An Illuminated Perfume by Trish Vawter and Hilde Soliani Parfums: A Collection That Commands The Spotlight By Felicia M. Hazzard.
We feature a new fragrance review; Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinal By Diane Artzberger, Sue Phillips and Bloomingdale's Presents Exclusive Custom Perfume Event at Roosevelt Field, NY, SNIFFAPALOOZA UND DIE 1. DEUTSCHE DUFTMESSE IN DÜSSELDORF in German or Sniffapalooza and the First German Fragrance Fair in Dusseldorf By Manuela Pfannes-Völkel, Scents in the City: Fragrance: The Plaza Beauty Store by Warren Tricomi By Michelyn Camen and we close with Living Perfume: The Natural Alchemy of Mandy Aftel at Henri Bendel.
Jean-Claude Ellena
May 1, 2009
The Fragrance Foundation and the 2009 Fifi Awards recently announced the
Top Five finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog. Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog over selections from perfume blogs from around the country! In this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine you can NOW VOTE in the FiFi Awards "Favorite Fragrances of 2009" in all Top 8 categories for men and women. The Fragrance Foundation presents the famous FiFi Awards, the 'Oscars' of the fragrance industry.
We also feature "Perfumes in Dialogue with One Another" By Elena Vosnaki, "London Calling; Czech and Speake No. 88 & Frankincense and Myrrh" Fragrance Reviews For The Men, "Fracas; For The Woman Who's Smokin' Hot" By Suzanne Keller, Ormonde Jayne Special Sniffapalooza Magazine Champaca Offer, "Calè Fragranze d'Autore; Perfume: The Embodiment of a Story" By Bettina d'Onofrio, Bond-No. 9 offers a Mother’s Day Raffle, Verveine by Molinard offers a Mother's Day Charity Event with Sniffapalooza, "Cherry Blossom; The Peace And Quiet Of An Earthly Existence" By Felicia M. Hazzard, Diptyque’s New Fragrance L’Eau de Tarocco and osMoz.com offers a collection of olfactory exploration kits called "Les coulisses du parfum". We close this issue with "Raphaella's Roses" Part Three.
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the
TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage
2009 Blog!
The Fragrance Foundation and the 2009 Fifi Awards recently announced the
Top Five finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog. Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog over selections from perfume blogs from around the country! The Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage Blog category is an historic and appreciative gesture on the part of The Fragrance Foundation for the quality work on online fragrance blog sites, legitimizing them as editorial vehicles. If you have not seen our two "Top Five" articles that the Fifi panalists chose, you can view the full articles here in their entirety. This is truly a honor for us.
Congratulations to Elena Vosnaki and Nathan Branch for catapulting Sniffapalooza Magazine into the FiFi Award Nominations that were chosen for this historical award nomination. A sincere heartfelt thanks to the Fragrance Foundation and FiFi Awards. See all the nominations Fifi Awards here at www.fifiawards.org.
Sniffapalooza Magazine
New: Estée Lauder Introduces Pure White Linen Pink Coral
A delicate, tender and peaceful fragrance for all seasons. Estée Lauder brings you a new addition to the irresistible collection of Pure White Linen fragrances that you can live in all year round. New Pure White Linen Pink Coral is an utterly feminine, tender and peaceful fragrance that gently sweeps over the senses in soft waves, capturing the feeling of being by the ocean at daybreak, just as it is blushed by dawn’s warm light. With a composition of perfectly blended sea-kissed Apple Blossoms, Waterfruits, Sweet Peas and Camelias blushed with Honeysuckle and Sandalwood, Pure White Linen Pink Coral is a scent that is feminine, peaceful and wonderfully, perfectly pretty. “Pure White Linen Pink Coral is the perfect feeling and fragrance to complete the Pure White Linen collection,” said Karyn Khoury, Senior Vice President of Fragrance Development Worldwide, Estée Lauder. “The Pure White Linen values of sophisticated simplicity and relaxed elegance are reinforced, but with a unique view that is tender and feminine.”
Sweeping over the senses in series of soft waves, Pure White Linen Pink Coral opens delicately with a gentle mist of Chinese Berry and Pink Peppercorns. When combined with juicy Apple Blossom, Waterfruits and Clear Aldehydes, a sparkling crisp wetness and a dreamy bright floralcy greet you in the top notes of the fragrance. Next comes a perfect floral fusion that lingers with the pure innocence of Jasmine, Camellia Flower and a perfect accent of Honeysuckle. A blushing bouquet of Sweet Pea, Cherry Blossom, and Pink Peony follows closely behind, evoking the tender serenity of the ocean at daybreak. In the end, the petals float softly away leaving in their wake a peaceful whisper of creamy Sandalwood, sheer Vanilla and a caressing touch of Heliotrope.
Photographed by Craig McDean, the print ads feature Oscar®-winning actress and Estée Lauder spokesmodel, Gwyneth Paltrow, in an alluring linen sun dress by See by Chlóe and relaxing in a serene seaside setting with waves gently breaking in the distance. “The image of Gwyneth embodies a relaxed, carefree luxury that speaks to the fragrance and the collection,” says Aerin Lauder, Senior Vice President and Creative Director, Estée Lauder. The tagline: “I love how I feel in pink,” conveys the feelings of femininity and tenderness we experience when we are in a relaxed and peaceful setting.
Available at all department stores and esteelauder.com
Edelweiss
Fragrance Review
by Victoria Austin
When I first heard there was a new fragrance on the scene by the name of edelweiss, it immediately conjured memories of the tune by the same name performed in Rogers and Hammerstein’s movie The Sound of Music, with panoramic views of Julie Andrews twirling in pristine meadows and the glorious majesty of the Alps. I wondered how the fragrance would compare with the beauty expressed in both the movie and song. I was not disappointed when I experienced edelweiss, passionately created by Brigitte Witsche whose idea and inspiration for the fragrance was her beautiful homeland Switzerland.
Diane Schofield lives in London with her partner Jack and an awful lot of perfume. She can't remember a time when she wasn't interested in fragrance and as a precocious child she was entranced by her aunt's collection of Guerlain scents in their magical bottles. She is a member of Sniffapalooza as well as other fragrance forums. When not buying, sniffing, spraying, dabbing, reading or thinking about scent, Diane somehow finds the time to work in the world of international tax.
Bond No. 9 needs your help!
Vote now to help pick the bottle of "Brooklyn"...
When we introduced, Brooklyn, its breakthrough street-art surface design brought praise and a barrage of responses. Well, we already knew that aficionados of the borough of Brooklyn can be opinionated. But so many strong opinions reached us about what a Brooklyn bottle could look like that we realized we’d better offer more options if we knew what was good for us.
After receiving hundreds of fabulous designs submissions, the Bond No. 9 team has decided to have you vote!
The final bottles are fantastic so please vote!
Sniffapalooza Magazine
ROJA DOVE INTERVIEW
By Diane Schofield
SM: What is your first scented memory?
RD: The scent of wet leather. I only recalled this quite recently, I was invited to smell the series of fragrances Vera Stubi had commissioned to have made for the launch of the film Perfume. These scents were not sold commercially as the project was totally esoteric. When I smelt one of them I asked how old are you when you wear reins – I was told about two or three. Suddenly I remembered the reins I wore when I was tiny as I used to love chewing them
SM: You were for many years Professeur de Parfums at Guerlain. Can you tell us how this came about?
RD: I was employed by Guerlain when I was in my twenties – they employed me specifically to devise, create, and implement a perfumery course as they did not have one. The family always said I knew more about their history than they did and I had a good rudimentary understanding of perfumery. I had the good fortune to spend time with Jean-Paul Guerlain and his assistant at the time, Anne-Marie Saget who went on to Bouicheron after she left Guerlain as well as a wonderful Scottish perfumer Nancy McConnicky who had worked on Ivoire for Balmain and had spent time also working with Jean-Paul.
The course I devised became the industry’s standard as every buyer came to be induced by me in the world of perfumery. The press attaché at the time then asked me if I would be prepared to conduct a perfumery course for the press – I said yes if you think they will be interested. At that time I believed the press to be omniscient.
When the Comité Français du Parfum put on the exhibition Heavenly Scent, I was asked by its Vice President, Guy Robert, if I would conduct the inaugural lectures as it travelled around Britain over an 18 month period having met him and worked with him during the creation and launch of the Osmotheque. By this time Guerlain had given me the title Professeur de Parfum as I had established myself as a specialist perfumery teacher.
SM: Who do you consider to be the greatest perfumier ever?
RD: I really find this too hard as François Coty is without question the one who shaped modern perfumery using the new bases and absolutes that other perfumers were so frightened of, as well as creating three of modern perfumeries most important accords – the oriental with Emeraude, the chypré with Le Chypré, and the origan with L’Origan. The other would have to be Jacques Guerlain who I believe to have had a level of finesse which is incomparable.
SM: Can you tell us what in your opinion makes a great perfume? Would a great perfume also necessarily be considered a classic perfume?
RD: A great perfume is one that has re-written the rules, that has used nothing as a point of reference, and is uncompromising. The resulting scent will be one which other perfumers refer back to as the bench mark for the style – the definitive interpretation. It is generally acknowledged that a composition has to have endured for approximately fifteen years before it can be called a classic – the criteria being:
First of its type
Best example of its type
Endures the passage of time
Set a new trend
Becomes the benchmark/reference for all perfumers working on the style
SM: What made you decide to develop your own small range of fragrances?
RD: I had been making bespoke fragrances and then opened the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie. Many clients visiting the perfumery thought we ‘mixed’ fragrances there – so many asked if they could smell a Roja Dove creation I decided to create a range of fragrances which would break every rule of our industry. These scents which my team have christened the Semi-Bespoke range are hidden in a drawer, have no smart bottle, have no names, and are only available in 250ml perfume – once fifty people own one, its ‘book’ is closed and only those people can continue buying it. For most people it is as near as they can get to having a bespoke fragrance – at a £1000 each, and not being on view, it is interesting to note they are the second best selling item in my perfumery. That said the demand was there for a commercial range and so I created the trilogy. I believe very strongly that people generally like fragrance from one category or family over the others which is why I decided that I would create one to represent each.
SM: There is currently a great deal of interest in and anxiety about IFRA deliberations which propose the restriction of certain materials. What effect do you believe any such restrictions will have on the perfume industry?
RD: In the end it will mean natural materials are more difficult to use and we will have to rely on synthetics. I hope your readers understand that I have been brought up on naturals and use the highest concentrations of the finest ones available – but IFRA will make it increasingly difficult for us to use the materials we all love.
SM: We are currently experiencing the worst financial crisis since probably the 1930s. What do you think will be the impact on the luxury sector, specifically the fragrance industry?
RD: I think it will show many things up to be what they often are - overpriced and lacking integrity. This has to be a good time for legitimacy through good, fine quality perfumery. I believe people will still buy but will be considered with their purchases. It is interesting to think my perfumery is on the fifth floor, you have to go out of your way to find us, I have no financial support for advertising and marketing and yet our perfumery finished the first quarter of the year +30%
SM: What is your opinion of the great perfumes which have had to be reformulated?
RD: HEARTBTREAK. Are modern synthetics capable of providing the depth and character in a fragrance that was previously produced by natural ingredients? No synthetic material can capture the complexity or subtlety of natural materials
SM: What do you consider to be the most beautiful fragrance ever produced?
RD: This really is too difficult to answer – maybe the original Parfums de Champs-Elysées…and I do mean the one by Jacques Guerlain and not the more recent Champs Elysées which has nothing to do with the original.
SM: Are there any perfumers working today who you believe will ultimately rank with the likes of Jacques Guerlain and Edmond Roudnitska?
RD: I believe there are but maybe their compositions will not see the light of day as they do not have the commercial freedom to bring their beauties to market but instead have to create fragrances to marketing briefs
SM: I know that you have an unparalleled collection of scent bottles. Which ones are your greatest treasures?
RD: The ones made for Queen Victoria – Prince Albert – and Napoleon as they are the only known examples in the world. Also the Chanel set I have which neither the Comité Français du Parfum nor the Wertsheimer estate have any record of, which contains Chanel No’s, 2, 5, 11, 22
SM: Do you think that there is any occasion on which the wearing of fragrance is inappropriate?
RD: Yes, when I am working and someone comes near me wearing something overbearing as it is both disturbing and disruptive.
SM: How would you respond to those people who feel that parfum is too “strong” and prefer to wear an eau de toilette?
RD: They are making an assumption based on a lack of experience/exposure. Many people say they don’t like perfume as it is strong as a smoke-screen to hide the fact that they find it too expensive.
Do you believe in the concept of a “signature scent”?
Without question. Whilst I think it is great to have a range of scents for different moods and occasions, if you can find the ‘one’ it will take you anywhere – and there is nothing more precious than being remembered for your scent.
NEW Fragrances
KISS by J. Del Pozo
Press release
The neon, the music, the noise, the night. The transgression, the forbidden, grown-up places, the graffiti, the taxis, the cars, the motorbikes. An urban atmosphere, Tokyo, Shanghai, Guinza.Oriental eroticism in the mind of a young woman.
A sexy woman, wild and fascinated by transgression, the forbidden, going through the wild age and discovering the first flirtatious glances, her first high heels, her first mini skirts, her first derires, the first secrets, the first lipstick, the first scent of a body. A woman that is exploring her eroticism and sensuality. A sexy girl that feels that her dreams can come true; she lives her life and love to the fullest.
KISS represents perfection of the new concept within the universe of J. Del Pozo. KISS is sexy. Is there anything sexier than the whisper of KISS? The kiss is immediately associated with the mouth. Kisses are to the mouth what water is to thirst. Intoxicating richness. Kiss. May they kiss you. KISS, KISS, KISS. Its bottle is an evocation impossible to elude, intense and unforgettable. A Japanese orchid, the color of red desire, on the glass of the bottle, sends her to an oriental universe, the pink color of the fragrance giving it an eye-catching contrast. Pinkish red as only the red of the Orient can be, the red of those city nights, lit up streets of Shanghai or of a Tokyo discotheque.
The Roberto Verino, J. Del Pozo and Tous brands are all available mainly in Dillard’s, also the Tous perfumes can be found as well,
in the Tous boutiques.
In Fiore's Fleurs Blanches
and Rose Noir
Fragrance Review
By Trish Vawter
In Fiore's founder and creator, Julie Elliott, creates parfum solides that are quite
beautiful and could even be considered a little treasure. Each compact
is embossed with their lovely logo and made of heavy bronzed metal that feels
weighty and secure in your hand. Of course the real gem is what is found inside;
gorgeous fragrances made from 100% all natural essential
oils and absolutes nestled inside a jojoba and beeswax base.
To give a bit of background, In Fiore specializes in more than just solid perfumes. Ms. Elliott also produces the most luxurious, hydrating and beautifully scented body balms that have garnered her a devoted following.
For those of you who love jasmine, I highly recommend giving her Dayala body balm a serious look. Its jasmine grandiflorum is rich, luscious, and slightly indolic. Lemongrass in the Dayala blend provides a grassy green brightness, and the overall result is deep and beautiful. In Fiore also makes many skincare items for the face, only one of which I have tried, the Pur Face Oil Concentré. Since the focus is fragrance, I will simply comment on its scent and declare the neroli bouquet to be such an accurate rendering that it swiftly takes me back to my childhood neighborhood in Phoenix where springtime orange blossoms were overly abundant.
In Fiore's Fleurs Blanches parfum solide gives us tropical floral lovers a chance to experience Ms. Elliott's expert hand with the sultry headiness of tuberose, jasmine sambac, and orange blossom; and the delicateness of rose petals. Once applied, Fleurs Blanches' hanky-panky begins without hesitation and the tuberose and jasmine begin their intoxicating interplay. Jasmine sambac, also known as pikake, has a slightly spicy aspect that melds effortlessly with the hypnotic lily-like greenness of the tuberose absolute. The heart of the parfum solide finds itself in sweeter territory as the orange blossoms assert themselves with their bounty of soft white petals, ultimately settling alongside graceful rose florets. The tuberose and jasmine remain steadfast throughout Fleurs Blanches' evolution as the fragrance meanders with you through lush oceanside botanical paths as you effortlessly tuck an orange blossom in your hair.
Rose Noir on the other hand, finds you in the city wearing your evenings' best and feeling rather elegant. Or maybe you're in your favorite pair of hipslung jeans and a comfy tee, but you know Rose Noir will easily take you into your anticipated night out. It's sexy and versatile, yet Rose Noir's wearability belies the exotic origins of its fragrant ingredients. Saffron absolute, Damascena rose petals, Oud from Assam and galbanum all play their part in this extraordinarily beautiful perfume. From the outset, rose and oud mingle together effortlessly and create a striking balance between floral sweetness and balsamic woods. I will not claim to be an oud expert, but the one Ms. Elliott has chosen from Assam, in northeastern India, is particularly fresh as if the wood of a trunk had just been split, exposing its raw heartwood and severed bark. There's a tanginess to this oud, and the rose embraces it warmly. Together they cultivate an aroma that is a fresh green rose, grounded by vibrant earthy woods. The saffron and galbanum support this blend with a subtle hay note and even more rich green depth, respectively. The parfum solide is the perfect medium for Rose Noir. It is a sensual scent that is applied in a tactile, and some might consider, sensual way.
Both Fleurs Blanches and Rose Noir are beautiful fragrances from the moment you hold the compact in your hand to the instant you touch and inhale the gorgeous natural essences Ms. Elliott has so masterfully blended. I highly recommend looking at the In Fiore website (http://www.infiore.net/) or Beautyhabit.com to peruse her other parfum solides as there are a total of seven. Vetiver Sambac is not to be missed by those among you who love vetiver. And for the ones out there who can't get enough of neroli, Fleur Orange should be strongly considered. While you're browsing, don't forget to peek at the body balms, they are a truly luxurious and gorgeously scented treat for your skin.
Persona by Profumo.it/ La Via del Profumo
Review
Review by Elena Vosnaki
Can a custom-made fragrance resonate with someone who hasn’t commissioned it? Yes, it certainly can, as we like to daydream contemplating what Marlene Dietrich and Cary Grant wore. But it’s not often ~despite it being the case with Persona by natural perfumer extraordinaire Dominique Dubrana/Abdes Salaam~ that the imagery chosen by the patron can be so legible, so personal to the casual perfume lover. And yet the medieval painter Andrei Rublov and the smuggler and guide in the science-fiction film Stalker come to life beneath my very eyes as I uncork one of the vials of La Via del Profumo: Persona.
Like a cool intellectual Swedish cinemascope or a tweed jacket over a silk shirt, Persona the fragrance mingles cerebral notes like frankincense with the natural chilliness of vetiver grass and lemon petit-grain (ie. the distillate from the twigs and leaves of the lemon tree), which reminds us of classic Vetiver fragrances.
These elements form the backbone of the fragrance allied to the more upbeat aroma of neroli (ie. the steam distillation of bigaradier/citrus aurantium flowers); subtle accents of spice (clove buds), floral (jasmine) and sensuous materials (tobacco, benzoin, oak moss) peek their head at any given moment. The indefinable halo they create is the scent of contemplation somewhere amidst the tall trees of the Russian taiga in the summer when the sun shines through the leaves casting long shadows. Introspective, serene and serious but never stern, Persona makes for a fragrance to truly lose your mind to!
Available directly from www.profumo.it
Lentisque by 06130 Zéro Six Cent-Trente Review
By Elena Vosnaki
The Grasse Company Parfums Zéro Six Cent-Trente, its numerical name representing the postal code of the French capital of essences, Grasse, was founded by Nicolas Chabert who hails from the old city itself. Lentisque (2007) is one of the unisex fragrances in the line-up which includes Cédre (2003), Yuzu Rouge (2003), Lys (2006), Feuille de Reglisse (2007), and Lierre Rose (2007).
The at once fluffy and oleaginous flavour of mastic gum or lentisque, a resin from a variety of the pistachio tree growing on the Eastern Aegean Sea islands, is hard to convincingly capture because of its individuality and peculiar taste hovering ever so precariously between the gustatory and the medicinal. In this Grasse family-owned company's fragrance, Nicolas Chabert utilizes a mantle of subtle beauty to play peek-a-boo with the elusive resin and bring out its shaded nuances of refined goodness. The dry, powdery facets are due to iris and the synergy of synthesized musks. The graceful, never overwhelming sweetness owes its merit to touches of plush rose and light amber. The very individual vegetal muskiness of ambrette seeds, an essence natural perfumers use to render a genuinely warm, snuggly note without the use of synthetics, contributes its own bittersweet gentleness along with the at once fresh and “dirty” note of vetiver. The amalgamation of aromata reminds me of olive and ochre oil paints thinned in turpentine, while painting with the view of a sandy beach beneath shady trees ~when the sun is slowly rising, before the day becomes too hot to bear. Like that glorious moment impinted in memory, Lentisque is a segment of perfection to enjoy all year long.
Olfactory pyramid
Top Notes: Lentisque (mastic), Ambrette seeds.
Middle Notes: Jasmine, Orris, Turkish Rose Absolute.
Base Notes: Musk, Haitian Vetiver Oil, Amber.
TOUS IN HEAVEN HER
Feminine. Olfactory family: Chypre - Fruity
Vibrant top notes, a surprising note of Pineapple combined with Granny Smith Apple and Red Fruits, giving off a note of young fantasy to the lively citric cocktail made up of Lemon, Lime and Bergamot. The strength of its independence is revealed in the heart with a rich floral harmony of Blue Fresia, White Peony, Lilacs, Tiare.
The free woody notes, of Indian Sandalwood and Atlas Ceder, combined with the quality of Vetiver, give the fragrance a mysterious joy, dressed with a touch of defiance with a note of Patchouli.
Nose: Vincent Schaller de Firmenich
New Fragrance
“VV Platinum” by Roberto Verino.
Closing off the full circle that Roberto Verino opened with “VV Rose”, “VV Acqua” and “VV Tropic”, on this occasion he seduces us, at last, with “VV Platinum”; a fragrance taking its place among the exclusive ambience of luxury….The signature transparent cube, which has been
internationally awarded, is engraved with a thread of platinum, which draws a romantic bouquet of intertwined blackberry branches that spiral up and lovingly wrap around it. The bright engravings both conceal and reveal an interior platinum-colored sphere, in which an elegant perfume
mysteriously awaits… cold, crystal clear, passionately created for an enigmatic woman.
The brilliant elegance of a sweet coolness,coming forth more from playful coyness
than forced arrogance. Ilías Erminidis, the young nose of Firmenich has hit the mark with the
secret mystery of “VV Platinum”. The inspiration comes from noble and atemporal materials such as neroli and amber; giving a new air – younger, more modern and feminine. As the fragrance comes out, a luminous metallic note stands out as it envelops the fragrance where the energy of the calabrian mandarin and the optimism of lime, with a unique touch of green
tea, are combined.
At the heart of the fragrance, there is a precious floral bouquet made up of violet and the delicacy of the lotus flower which give way through the original touches of pepper, Basilico and quince to the bottom amber and spiced floral notes. At the bottom we are surprised by the original combination of the eternal amber with the freshness and clarity of coriander and the tiare flower which make us feel the special attraction and the sensual character that is given off by the ROBERTO VERINO woman.
INTRODUCING C.O. BIGELOW’S NEW LEMON BLENDS
COLLECTION AND NEW LEMON EAU DE PARFUM
THINK: Lemon with a twist.
WHAT THEY ARE: New Lemon blends inspired by C.O. Bigelow’s Lemon Body Cream Original Formulary. From its sparkling, skin-brightening benefits to its zesty scent, Lemon is a C.O. Bigelow favorite. In fact, C.O. Bigelow’s Lemon Body Cream recipe has been an apothecary favorite since 1870. Now C.O. Bigelow introduces new twists on its time-honored formula in two high performance blends: Lemon & Pomegranate and Lemon & Lime.
The Lemon & Pomegranate blend is an antioxidant-rich formula combining the brightening and moisturizing effects of Lemon with antioxidant-packed Pomegranate to protect and nourish skin. The Lemon & Lime blend is a toning citrus formula infused with a twist of skin-toning Lime to visibly refine and smooth skin texture while rejuvenating and restoring skin. And in celebration of more than a century of Lemon benefits, C.O. Bigelow is debuting a new fine fragrance, Lemon Eau de Parfum—perfect for wearing alone or layering with your favorite Lemon scents.
Lemon Eau de Parfum
Inspired by all-time favorite original formulary Lemon Body Cream, this freshly scented eau de parfum is a pure, sparkling Lemon fragrance that blends effervescent citrus notes with green Lemon leaves and sensual, creamy undertones of warm white musk. As fresh and comforting as the cream, the fragrance can be worn alone or layered with the entire Lemon collection. $34.50 / 3.4fl.oz
C.O. Bigelow’s Lemon Blends Collection includes and contains: Lemon Oil and Extract 1%, Pomegranate Extract 1%:
Lemon & Pomegranate Body Cream Antioxidant-Rich Formula, Lemon & Pomegranate Body Wash Antioxidant-Rich Formula, Lemon & Pomegranate Body Scrub Antioxidant-Rich Formula, Lemon & Pomegranate Lip Cream Antioxidant-Rich Formula, Lemon & Lime Body Wash Toning Citrus Formula, Lemon & Lime Body Souffle Toning Citrus Formula, Lemon & Lime Body Tonic Toning Citrus Formula
WHERE TO FIND THEM: C.O. Bigelow Apothecary Shops, Bath & Body Works stores, and bathandbodyworks.com.
Since 1838, C.O. Bigelow Apothecary has been synonymous with quality. Using centuries-old therapeutic formularies and fusing them with the best of today’s technology, C.O. Bigelow offers an unparalleled collection of skin care and hair care products that contain authentic apothecary ingredients at active levels.
INTRODUCING BUTTERFLY FLOWER
FROM BATH & BODY WORKS
The floating lightness of the butterfly, captured in a romantic floral scent.
WHAT IT IS: A fragrance inspired by gardens carefully crafted to entice the delicate, playful butterfly. Created in the romantic spirit of the butterfly flower, the botanical planted expressly to seduce the butterfly, Bath & Body Works’ latest fragrance embodies the butterfly’s deep connection to the gardens it inhabits. Combining crisp top notes with a fresh floral heart, the scent evokes the fluttering weightlessness and delicacy of the elusive butterfly.
MASTER PERFUMER: When IFF master perfumer Jean-Marc Chaillan discovered the enchantment of butterfly gardens and their seductive flowers designed to attract butterflies, he instantly knew he wanted to translate the airy feel of the exquisite natural spaces into a light, living fragrance.
Top Notes: Black Tea, Mouthwatering Tangerine, Cyclamen, Banana Leaf
Mid Notes: Maxillania Tenufolia Orchid, Asia Syringa Flower, French Mimosa
Dry Down Notes: Creamy Coconut Milk, Musk
The light, fresh fragrance is captured in a limited-edition colored glass bottle etched with an iconic butterfly print. The fragrance is also available for the first time as a limited-edition solid perfume key chain that can be clipped to a bag or key ring, providing instant, on-the-go access to the addictive fragrance.
Butterfly Flower Eau de Toilette is $29.50; this fragrance is also available in a Solid Perfume ($19.50), Body Lotion ($10.50), Shower Gel ($10.50), Fragrance Mist ($12.00), Body Cream ($12.00), Hand Cream ($10.00), Creamy Body Wash ($10.50), and Body Butter ($15.00).
WHERE TO FIND IT: Exclusively at Bath & Body Works stores and via www.bathandbodyworks.com
Victoria Austin is a freelance writer, singer and fragrance collector and enthusiast living happily with her family in Texas.
Back to "Haute Parfumerie“ Guerlain
By Emmanuelle Pagès
In order to stick to my status of well-informed fragrance consultant, I am looking forward to being
updated about what will happen during the next few months on the fine fragrance market.
I was amazed about the numbers of launches that will surround us soon and so happily surprised
about the upcoming ones’ from – at least for myself - the “god father” of the Haute Parfumerie: Guerlain.
You might not totally agree with this, but for me - at least as French - Guerlain, one of the Oldest perfume house
in the world, is not only a piece of national traditional tradition, Guerlain is also a guardian of high quality wonderful
fragrances, which are still composed of 80% natural ingredients, making them unique and timeless, fragrance
with names that male one’s dreaming, escaping and feeling.
2009 will see the birth of Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus; the olfactive metamorphose of Mitsouko, younger and closer
to the spirit of our time. It remains a chypre fruity, whereas both peach and plum notes became lighter and the
watery floral scent brings more transparence and lightness to this new fragrance, a fragrance for upcoming Miss Guerlain.
For Habit Rouge 44th Birthday, 2 new variations have been created 2009. Habit rouge l’extrait olfactively closer to the original but with a more volatile top note blending quickly into floral, spicy, leathery, smoky and vanilla notes, none of them dominating, allowing one to discover every day the different facets of this scent. Habit rouge Sport, the second launch, is somehow smarter, lime and bitter orange blend into green bamboo, jasmine and rose facing notes of leather and vanilla melting into the delicate masculine scent of patchouli.
A controversial launch is La petite Robe Noire, either seen as not belonging into the spirit of Guerlain or definitively reflecting it. A fruity gourmand fragrance which introduces the bigarreau cherry and it intense well-ripened red fruit scent harmonizing with Sicilian lemon, licorice, almond melting into a floral interpretation of rose-scented macaroons and smoky tea to finally linger on musks, patchouli leaves and vanilla.
Young women will definitively feel appealed by this fragrance…Precieux nectar, a fragrance I might not be able to afford… € 6000 for this luxurious precious nectar playing with orange blossom, jasmine, almond, vanilla and musk...
2009 will definitively be a thrilling olfactively year for Guerlain….
Last minuet news-
The Royal Society judges have placed What the Nose Knows on the shortlist for the 2009 Science Book Prize. According to this morning's press release! Here is the latest news.
Avery Gilbert, author of What the Nose Knows: The Science of Scent in Everyday Life (Crown Publishers)
2008 L.A. Times Book Prize finalist, 2009 Royal Society Science Prize nominee
Avery Gilbert's book nominated for the Royal Society Prize for Science Books.
The longlist for this year's Royal Society Prize for Science Books the world's most prestigious award for science writing has been announced recently.
What the Nose Knows: The science of scent in everyday life by Avery Gilbert (Crown Publishers)
"It's a really original subject matter - how many smells can you actually distinguish and how smells evoke emotions. What's so good about it is that the book's not just about science - it's about the science of everyday life." -Deborah Cohen
The Royal Society is the world's oldest scientific academy in continuous existence, and has been at the forefront of enquiry and discovery since its foundation in 1660. The backbone of the Society is its Fellowship of the most eminent scientists of the day, elected by peer review for life and entitled to use FRS after their name. There are currently more than 60 Nobel Laureates amongst the Society's approximately 1400 Fellows and Foreign Members. Throughout its history, the Society has promoted excellence in science through its Fellowship and Foreign Membership, which has included Isaac Newton, Charles Darwin, Albert Einstein, James Watson and Stephen Hawking. In 1663, The Royal Society of London for the Improvement of Natural Knowledge was granted its Arms and adopted the motto "Nullius in verba", an expression of its enduring commitment to empirical evidence as the basis of knowledge about the natural world.
Winner to be announced: 15th September 2009 View other books here and visit website
Olfaction expert and Scientist
Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview Dr. Avery Gilbert, author of the outstanding new book
"What The Nose Knows". He talks to us about blogs, Givaudan, his amazing journey and the world of smell-
June 24, 2009
In this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine we feature an interview with Roja Dove By Diane Schofield from London, Capri and Carthusia: An Awakening And Journey Of The Senses By Joanne Mooney, In Fiore's Fleurs Blanches and Rose Noir; Fragrance Review By Trish Vawter, Andy Tauer Perfumes announces his new Mémorables Une rose chyprée, Edelweiss; A Fragrance Review by Victoria Austin, Persona by Profumo.it/ La Via del Profumo and Lentisque by 06130 Zéro Six Cent-Trente Reviews by Elena Vosnaki, Neil Morris Fragrances has ten new scents from his Vault Fragrance line and offers a special discount and we offer Back to "Haute Parfumerie“ Guerlain By Emmanuelle Pagès.
Avery Gilbert's book "What The Nose Knows" was nominated for the Royal Society Prize for Science Books, Bond No. 9 needs your help in voting now to help choose the final bottle of "Brooklyn" and we feature new fragrances such as Bath & Body Works® Signature Collection, White Citrus and Butterfly Flower, C.O. BIGELOW’S new Lemon Blends and Lemon Eau de Parfum, New Fragrance “VV Platinum” by Roberto Verino and NEW Fragrances KISS by J. Del Pozo, TOUS IN HEAVEN HER, TOUS IN HEAVEN HIM and Estée Lauder Introduces the new Pure White Linen Pink Coral.
A very special welcome to our new contributors as well as our regular writers!
MESSAGE FROM NEIL MORRIS FRAGRANCES...
May celebrates the one year anniversary of the introduction of the Neil Morris Vault fragrances which have been so well received by all of our fragrance friends. I have two big announcements to make concerning the Vault that I think you will all find exciting. We are launching a new one ounce (30 ml) spray bottle of all of the Vault parfums which will retail for $70.00 and we are adding ten incredible new scents to the Vault as well!
During the past year we have discovered that most of the people who purchase a Vault fragrance actually purchase multiple fragrances. And we had many requests to offer the scents in a smaller size in order to allow folks to build a fragrance wardrobe without breaking the bank. So as of today we will be replacing the current two ounce (60ml) bottle with a one ounce (30 ml) spray bottle for $70.00. At $70 for a one ounce bottle of parfum this is an incredible value considering that each bottle contains roughly three times the amount of fragrance oil as commercial fragrances. The Neil Morris signature line of fragrances are not affected by this change and will remain in the two ounce size.
Neil has also been busy at work creating some beautiful new scents. Being a niche perfume company we, can be a little more agile than the “big boys” in the industry so we are offering all ten new scents on our website starting today. The new scents are City Rain, Earthtones #4: Red Sky, Leather Garden, Mariner, Midnight Forest, Mystic Dragon, Prowl, Rumi, Vanille Rosé, and Vapor. For what it’s worth, City Rain has replaced Earthtones # 2: Desert Wind as my current favorite and Leather Garden and Midnight Forest are close contenders. With these ten new scents there is definitely something for everyone. You can check out all of the new scents at http://www.neilmorrisfragrances.com/vault.html
MARINER: An ode to those who go down to the sea in ships. Notes: Italian Bergamot, Damask Rose, Geranium, White Musk, Cedar, Sandalwood
VANILLE ROSÉ: I've had many requests to create a Vanilla/Rose perfume that's fresh as spring, sophisticated, long-lasting yet not cloying. The result is Vanille Rosé. Notes: Orange Blossom, Heliotrope, Green Tea, Red Rose, Dark Vanilla, Musk
RUMI: Rumi was the great 13th century Persian philosopher, mystic and poet. Rumi believed passionately in the use of music, poetry, and dance as a path for reaching the Divine. For Rumi, music helped practitioners focus their whole being on the divine, and to do this so intensely that the soul was both destroyed and resurrected. It was from these ideas that the practice of "whirling" dervishes developed into a ritual form. Notes: Ylang Ylang, Rose, Benzoin, Patchouli, Amber
LEATHER GARDEN: I've always wanted to create a perfume that incorporates warm leathery notes with a deep floral heart. Top Notes: Blackberry, Basil Blossom, Heart Notes: Narcissus, Hyacinth, Peony, Rose, Lily of the Valley. Base Notes: Vetiver, Redwood, Agarwood, Leather
PROWL: A powerful jaguar slips silently through the dark Amazonian jungle in search of prey...Notes: Black Pepper, Honeysuckle, Jasmine Sambac, Tuberose, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Amber, Civet
MYSTIC DRAGON: Mystic Dragon was inspired by a walk through Boston's Chinatown during Chinese New Year celebrations several years ago. I remember the scent of smoke from firecrackers mixed with incense and a sweetness in the air that I can only describe as burning chocolate! Notes: Jasmine, Amber, Patchouli, Smoke, Cedar, Chocolate
EARTHTONES #4 - RED SKY: Our newest addition to the Earthtones Series (of which there will eventually be ten), Red Sky is an homage to the incredible beauty of the Southwestern sky at sunset. Notes: Lemongrass, Lavender, Narcissus, Delphinium, Oakmoss, Amber, Black Musk
CITY RAIN: Imagine a hot July day in the city. Suddenly, a distant rumble heralds an approaching storm. As the first big drops hit the baked sidewalk the promise of relief and the scent of cooler air is in the wind... Top Notes: Green Tea, Ozone Notes, Middle Notes: Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Base Notes: Blue Musk, Green Patchouli, Earth Note, Golden Musk
VAPOR: Rise up into a perfect blue sky, surrounded by big white clouds, kissed by vapor...Notes: Aldehydes, Water Lily, Tonka Bean, Heliotrope, Frankincense, Amber, Musk
MIDNIGHT FOREST: A walk through a woods at night, the stars glistening overhead, the songs of the night, wrapping the scents of the misty forest around you...Notes: Galbanum, Redwood, Dark Musk, Nagarmotha, Oak, Myrrh and Myrtlewood.
Finally, can you tell us of the most extraordinary and/or exciting purchase made by a customer in your beautiful Haute Parfumerie in Harrods?
The most exciting launch for me was when we had our first sale - it was sold to me and was a bottle of Diorissimo, as it was made in the year I was born. I had the perfumeries chart done by a friend of mine, Shelley von Strunkle, we opened it to the second using the speaking clock to be certain of the time. Everything Shelley predicted has turned out to be true!
Editors note: Special thanks to my London friend; Diane Schofield, Roja Dove and Shimon Kalichman. All photographs courtesy of Roja Dove.
Trish Vawter is the creator of the natural perfume and beauty blog Scent Hive (www.scenthive.com). She lives in the Pacific Northwest with her husband and two boys, and works as a nurse midwife when she is not busy sniffing perfume.
Tauer Perfumes | Mémorables
Une rose chyprée
Une rose chyprée is the first fragrance of the Tauer Perfumes | Mémorables line. More scents in the Mémorables line will follow. All of them are like a praline: I offer them in small 15 ml flacons and all are bottled and packed by hand. They are delicate and precious and truly hand made in Switzerland. The Mémorables are fragrances that I compose around hard to get, outstanding, traditional materials. They are rich in essential oils and absolutes. They breathe the air of traditional craftsmanship. They bridge traditional perfumery with modernity.
Une rose chyprée is an oriental rose on a chypre base. It is an elegant perfume built around two natural extracts from rosa damascena: The absolute and the steam distilled essential oil. 15 ml Rose chyprée contains one pound of fresh rose petals, steam distilled in the traditional way. Its heart is lifted by spicy Bay and hot cinnamon and a fresh accord built around bergamot, lemon and Clementine essential oils. Green Bourbon geranium oil lets the rose petals shine and contrasts with the dark resinous accord in the base, built around labdanum, oak moss, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla.
Review next issue!
Une rose chyprée, eau de parfum
Launch date worldwide: July 1 2009
Retail price on : 65 CHF (with shipment worldwide of 20 CHF)
Edelweiss strikes many bright and lovely notes throughout its various phases of metamorphosis.
The top notes are listed as a floral accord with hints of lemon. The lemon appears immediately upon applying from the sleek, contemporary bottle with only a hint of an underlying floral accord to my nose. I am curious whether there is any edelweiss flower extract or oil used in the fragrance. Never having smelled an edelweiss flower, my quick research found only one mention of the flower producing a fruity scent. Other than the initial burst of cool lemon, I don’t detect any other fruit notes prevailing or hiding in this fragrance. The middle notes of cedar and bergamot are laid on a foundation of sandalwood. The notes on dry down are blended seamlessly and elegantly so as to present a dichotomy of fresh, translucent yet multi-layered silage, one that is very present with excellent depth and staying power, reaching a soft creaminess in the dry down.
After wearing many heavily scented fragrances through the fall and winter months, edelweiss is a breath of crisp, clean air that lingers wonderfully for many hours on this wearer. Although I am told the edelweiss flower is a late blooming summer flower, the fragrance smells to me of the awakening of all the treasures of the rich, mountainous earth after being safely buried and cleansed by freshly fallen snow to keep pure and unspoiled until spring awakens the earth again.
This lovely translation of edelweiss by Brigitte Witschi has me singing its praises along with the Rogers and Hammerstein song while dreaming of twirling like Julie Andrews in a fragrant meadow amidst the pristine Swiss Alps.
Edelweiss, Edelweiss, every morning you greet me.
Small and white, clean and bright
You look happy to meet me
Blossom of snow may you bloom and grow
Bloom and grow forever –
If I can add my own lyric to the tune after experiencing
edelweiss, it would be: Blooming and growing into a
lovely dry down on me!
You can order your own beautiful whiff of Switzerland
directly from the edelweiss website:
Coming soon; review of the new Alpine Rose
About the Author: Elena Vosnaki is a multi-lingual historian and Bronze Age archaeologist from Greece who has been collecting fragrances since she can remember and writing about them in various publications around the world. After getting her degree in Musical studies the realization that perfumery is an art-form as well;it dawned on her and more formal studying of the fiber of that art form began, continuing to this day. To that end she created www.perfumeshrine.com, a site dedicated to the finer pleasures in life.
Emmanuelle Pagès is a French woman currently living in Germany. A fragrance consultant, she has been employed with Beiersdorf AG in Hamburg, Germany as Category Manager Fragrance, Development of the olfactive strategy, briefing and selection of fragrances for new launches and relaunches. She is in charge of Establishment of internal consumer fragrance testing procedures and determines fragrance market trends. She was the Assistant Fragrance Development Manager at Firmenich GmbH and Education includes the Firmenich Olfactive Training Fine Fragrances and basic raw material training. Emmanuelle Pagès speaks French and German and is a Sniffapalooza member.
Bath & Body Works® Signature Collection
NEW Fragrance: White Citrus
Master perfumers have used a highly unique blend of crisp lemon, invigorating grapefruit, lush waterlily and alluring ginger flower to create this fresh, modern interpretation of classic citrus.
Fragrance Top Notes: Lemon Zest, Sparkling Grapefruit NP, Juicy Tangerine
Fragrance Mid Notes: Mandarin NP, Ginger Flower, Waterlily, Apricot Nectar, Lily of the Valley, Freesia
Fragrance Base Notes: Clean Woods, Sheer Musk (Captive)
Capri and Carthusia:
An awakening and journey
of the senses
By Joanne Mooney
When one hears of the island of Capri off the Bay of Naples, one immediately thinks
of high gloss, high fashioned jet-setters whiling away afternoons under café umbrellas amidst haute couture boutiques. And yes, after you exit the funicular which takes
you up to the main square of the town of Capri from the Marina Grande, this is the world you experience. Cafés for people-watching, white buildings and tiles in sun-drenched colors, 5-star hotels and pedestrian-only alleys lined with exclusive designer shops. And this says nothing of the spectacular vistas of mountain and sea. Who wouldn’t want to vacation here? Tiberius Caesar did.
But for those of us who are drawn to fine fragrance, Capri holds yet another claim.
It is the home of the Carthusia perfumery. A walk away from the center of town and
down a quiet rambling garden path with magnificent views, takes us to the pristine
stone building which houses the factory and company store. What makes the
Carthusia perfumery unique - in addition to its location - is that it is the smallest
perfumery in the world and its fragrances are all hand-made from natural products,
many of them local. An olfactory survey of their exquisite scents evokes thoughts
of not only Capri’s reputation as a playground of the elite, but also of the natural
and wild beauty of the island.
The history of Carthusia
The Carthusia legend goes back to 1380 when the father prior of the Carthusian
Monastery of San Giacomo – still visible from the perfumery – created an exquisite
arrangement of local flowers for the visiting Queen Joan of Anjou. When the flowers
were thrown away after 3 days, the father prior remarked that the water containing
them had acquired a unique fragrance. The monks recorded the flower combination
of the vase, distilled the water and thus produced the first Carthusia fragrance:
Fiori di Capri. Once the monks had mastered the art of fragrance, they began
to produce other scents as well, recording them all in a book belonging to the
monastery.
Over the centuries, the monastery was destroyed and rebuilt several times, and the fragrance formulas were lost and found. When the monastery was restored in 1681, the fragrance book was found again and the production of the fragrances was started anew.
In more recent history (1948), the prior of the monastery once more came across the old perfume formulas and, with the permission of the Vatican, worked with a chemist from Torino to recreate the Carthusia laboratory. Today, Carthusia continues to employ the same methods used by the monks to make its fragrances, using only the top ingredients in limited quantities, hand-bottling and hand-wrapping every product.
A visit to the perfumery
My knowledge and interest in Carthusia started in 2002 when I stumbled upon the perfumery while visiting Capri that September. I was impressed not only with the perfumery itself, but also by its beautiful surroundings and most all of, by the uniqueness and quality if its fragrances. I spent significant time speaking with the very capable assistants in the store, smelling and selecting the bottles that I would bring back home with me to the States. I left the store wanting to know much more about the perfumery and I promised myself that I would return to Carthusia when next in Southern Italy.
Fast forward to March 2009 when I started to plan my next trip to that part of the world. I had since become a Sniffapalooza member and had learned much more about fragrance. “While in the area. why not plan another trip to Carthusia? Maybe they would grant me an interview,” I thought. Fortunately, through Sniffa’s Founder, Karen Dubin, I was able to connect with Carthusia’s representatives in the United States and, ultimately, with Michele Pagani of Carthusia in Capri. The date was set for Monday, May 11 for a private tour of the facility.
When I entered the Carthusia factory near the Parco Augusto, Michele was waiting for me looking out over the Certosa monastery and the sea. We started our discussion with a walk to the monastery. I asked Michele about the inspiration for Carthusia fragrances. All he had to do was point to the grand vista before us with its lush vegetation plunging down to the ocean. Carthusia need look no further than out its front door to be inspired. The beauty of the land and sea, the mythology of the island as well as the great writers and artists who have spent time on Capri have all lent their influence. Ingredients in Carthusia fragrances come from natural sources on Capri whenever possible, such as the abundant lemons, carnations and rosemary growing on Mount Solaro. However, some of the ingredients come from the nearby area of fertile Mount Vesuvius as well as more distant areas – such as Grasse - as is needed.
Back at the factory, I was taken to the rooms where the fragrances are processed, bottled and labeled. I was introduced to Luciano Aprea who is in charge of operations and who explained the various steps of making and bottling Carthusia fragrances. For any given fragrance, it all starts with combining the fragrance essence (made offsite) with water, alcohol and a fixative in a vat (shown right) at a given temperature for about 20 days. After that, the fragrance is put into a second vat where it is left for another 20 to 30 days. When this maturation process is finished, the fragrance is ready for bottling. Each bottle is individually filled by a technician in the cleanest of environments (shown below right). After a batch of bottles is filled, it is taken to another room where the bottles are individually labeled. Batches of fragrance are made in very small quantities in this manner and, as a result, not all fragrances are available at all times. There is a tremendous amount of quality control, which the owner – Signore Silvio Ruocco –personally oversees.
TOUS IN HEAVEN HIM
Only a bad boy understands. Olfactory family: Fougère – Woody. Intrepid top notes, Courageous and impetuous in the notes at its hears and a bottom which is non-conformist, magnetically defiant. An burst of coolness from intrepid citric fruits (mandarine), pineapple invoking the intensity of the Chile pepper. A courageous fusion of cardamon LMR with the energy of the Violet and Star Fruit. “Tous in Heaven Him” has a defiant and non-conformist bottom thanks to the musky moss.
Masculine Fragrance: (Nose: Alienor Massenet)
Available at Dillard's and fine Department stores
The Roberto Verino, J. Del Pozo and Tous brands are all available mainly in Dillard’s, also the Tous perfumes can be found as well, in the Tous boutiques.
Joanne Mooney has been affiliated with Sniffapalooza since 2005. She has been a lifelong lover of scent, first mixing concoctions of sweet-smelling household products in the bathroom sink as a little girl and graduating to Chanel No 19 perfume in high school. It's only gotten better from there. Today, she ferrets out rare and unusual scents from around the world to add to her ample collection. Her favorite note is orris
Fiori di Capri: Legendary and floral. This is the Capri perfume par excellence. The Mediterranean notesof wild carnation, still picked by hand on Capri’s Mount Solaro, lily of the valley and oak are blended together with the enigmatic aroma of amber and sandalwood to recreate the original Medieval recipe from 1380. Fiori di Capri contains top notes of lily of the valley and clove pink as well as heart notes of oak and ylang ylang. Base notes are warm amber and fruity peach.
Aria di Capri: Light and fruity. A classic and best-selling scent for decades in the island of Capri, madewith fruity notes of peach mingled with flowery notes of mimosa and iris and Mediterranean herbal notes of bay leaf, this fresh scent re-creates the memory of an atmosphere: the magical “air of Capri”. With top notes of mimosa and jasmine; heart notes of laurel and jujube and soothing marine notes as it’s base.
Ligea: Seductive and powdery. Bearing the name of one of the three mermaids who tried in vain to bewitch Ulysses, Ligea is a feminine sensual nectar, surprising and passionate, combining the warm powdery notes of opoponax with the fresh soft aroma of sweet mandarin. Ligea is blended with beautiful top notes of lemon, orange and mandarin as well as heart notes of oppoponax, patchouli and cloves with warm base notes of vanilla incense and Benjamin bush.
Io Capri: Enveloping and aromatic. Dedicated to the goddess “Io” in whose honor the Roman emperor Tiberius built the most magnificent villa on Capri in the first century AD, this fragrance is intense and decisive, sophisticated and modern, bringing together the exhilarating notes of tea leaves with the sweet notes of wild fig. A sensual fragrance, Io Capri is blended with top notes of green tea and mint fig, heart notes of orange and fruity fig and base notes of jasmine and fig.
Via Camerelle: Fresh and aromatic. Back in the Nineteenth Century this street was a lane onto which opened what remained of forty rooms, created out of ancient Roman cisterns - that is why they were called “Camerelle”. The head notes in the new intriguing fragrance are those of bergamot, lemon and bitter orange, delicately underlined by marjoram. In the heart note one can perceive water lily, cyclamen and jasmine. The final base notes are cedar wood, sea musk and amber, with a hint of marine and spice aroma
Mediterraneo: Fresh and sunny. Dedicated to the cradle of the great civilizations of Europe, Africa and Asia, Mediterraneo is a sunny fragrance, ample and original, which blends the classic freshness of lemon leaves with the young sparkling notes of green tea. Sun-filled. Mediterraneo is blended with top notes of bergamot, orange, lemon, vervain and green tea. As well as heart notes of Egyptian Jasmine, Turkish Rose and Italian Iris with base notes of cedar and vetiver.
After our visit to the factory, Michele and I sat down to finish our discussion. One of the things that impressed me about Carthusia was their philosophy regarding their target audience. According to Michele, Carthusia produces their products to satisfy their own high standards. They are squarely in the niche fragrance market and do not want to be anywhere else. They are not about mass marketing and they want to maintain their dimension of being the world’s smallest perfumery. They also want to stay close to their Caprisian heritage and they want to communicate this to their customers. Any new products they introduce must reflect Capri and the tradition of Carthusia.
I asked Michele about what is on the horizon for Carthusia. He told me about some new products for the home which will be launched in collaboration with artwork from local artists. The timing and distribution of these products is not yet determined. In addition, due to production limitations, some products are still only available in Capri. At the end of our meeting, Michele walked me back through town to the funicular. As we walked, he was constantly greeted by townspeople. Someone familiar and very connected to the island, I thought. It was a true reflection of what we had spoken about that afternoon. Carthusia is something unique and intimately connected to Capri, with the familiarity and quality of things done in a small way.
Carthusia in the United States
Today, eight Carthusia fragrances are available in the United States: Fiori di Capri, Mediterraneo, Ligea, Io Capri, Aria di Capri, Carthusia Uomo, Numero Uno and Via Camerelle. These range from Parfums to Eau de Toilettes and solid balms. Carthusia bath and body products in Fiori di Capri, Mediterraneo, Via Camerelle and Carthusia Uomo are available in shower gels, body lotions, and hand-carved soaps. The Domus, or “home” line, also comes in a variety of the original scents as well as others such as Magnolia, Orient and Mare. The Domus line includes room sprays, linen sprays, candles and room diffusers. All of the products listed above are available now in the United States. There is one new fragrance that should be available in the American market late fall 2009/early spring 2010: Caprissimo. This formula is also one of the originals but has been recently reformulated, allowing it to be reintroduced for sale off Capri island.
Quoting sources at Carthusia, the descriptions of the fragrances are as follows. All scents are the original creations of the monks of 1380. In difficult times, formulas may have been retired, only to be recreated when the timing was right.
Carthusia Uomo: For men. Carthusia Uomo is a classic men’s scent, an elegant woody-marine fragrance made with essences of rosewood, citrus and kelp. Uomo contains top notes of lemon, bergamot orange, freesia and green leaves. Heart notes of lily of the valley, geranium, cedar and patchouli and musky base notes of oak and amber.
Numero Uno: For men. Numero Uno, with notes of fresh, crisp citrus, green, aromatic herbs and soft,sensual musks. Numero Uno was recreated in 1948 in Capri; Italy’s playground for the rich and famous, for the elegant and sophisticated man of the times. Numero Uno was made for a man who appreciates the finer things in life, such as an aged Barolo and an elegant timepiece. Classic top notes of lavender, orange, bergamot and sweet marjoram and heart notes of violet, ylang ylang, patchouli, Artemisia, thyme and litsea cubeba. Base notes finish with vetiver, musk, white musk and myrrh.
There are a number of Carthusia products that are still only available on Capri.
Acknowledgements: I would like to acknowledge the following people for their most generous assistance in helping
me write this article: Madeline Johnson and Megan Pinto of MJMPR; Valeria Vavassori of Intertrade Europe, North
American Division;Luciano Aprea of Carthusia in Capri.; Michele Pagani of Carthusia in Capri for taking the time to
show me Carthusia Capri.
Luciano Aprea & Michele Pagani
This is a metallic fragrance of exclusive seduction, evoking a mysterious night from the purity of crystallized nature, the exclusivity of luxury; turned into a perfume by Roberto Verino.
The Roberto Verino, J. Del Pozo and Tous brands are all available mainly in Dillard’s.
Raphaella Brescia Barkley
Editor In Chief of Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine was founded and created by Raphaella Brescia Barkley
out of love for the Sniffapalooza organization and her love of fragrance. She formed the popular international
on-line fragrance site in early 2006 after joining Snifffapalooz in 2005. (Please read related articles here about Sniffapalooza)
A former model, beauty queen and professional ballet dancer, Ms. Barkley also has a business background
that includes experience in marketing, fundraising and event management. She served as Artistic and Executive Director
for two successful major arts organizations; working with international ballet super stars with primary responsibility for
all event productions. She was also responsible for all fundraising/grant writing in excess of $500,000 and
for all event management, including overseeing 100 volunteers.
Raphaella is also a former choreographer who directed musicals and television commercials and was personal manager
to dancers from Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre. After retiring from the performing arts world,
she became the General Manager of a boutique historical hotel in a ski-resort and was involved in animal rescue for many years.
Passionately involved in fragrance, Raphaella has spent the past few years researching and studying fragrance before
joining Sniffapalooza. She currently has a fragrance library of around 400 fragrances of which she blames her grandmother.
After discovering Creed, Guerlain, Caron and truly artistic niche fragrances, Raphaella gave away all of her
"commercial" fragrances to her little sister. Other interests involve collecting Raphaella's Roses and rose fragrances,
original artwork, a large music collection, collections of music videos from the 1980's, jewelry, books, psychology and teas.
Her life is devoted to her husband, her rescued cats, her home, family, her dear Sniffapalooza friends,
traveling and the production of Sniffapalooza Magazine.
Currently, she is a Contributor and Regional Correspondent for Beauty Fashion Magazine, a national industry beauty
magazine featuring her new column, the "San Francisco Beat" which covers beauty events in the San Francisco area.
Raphaella believes that fragrance is an art form, magical and healing. She still stops to smell the roses.
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All articles remain the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for display purposes only. Sniffapalooza Magazine is independently owned and operated by Raphaella Barkley.
Sniffapalooza Magazine is independently owned and operated by Raphaella Barkley.
