Nathan Branch is a Communications Consultant for virtual/online companies and presently resides in Dallas, Texas. He holds a BA in English and divides his spare time between sniffing new perfume releases and scribbling notes for an alleged book project that will examine the rapid growth and global reach of the contemporary luxury goods industry. You can also find him at Nathan Branch.com and email at nathan@spamarrest.com
Sniffaopalooza Magazine welcomes Nathan Branch-
According to the survey 'Male emancipation in the Bathroom' conducted by the German-based personal care giant Beiersdorf, "it is women who initiate men's interest in personal care products. Furthermore, mothers, sisters or partners purchase products for approximately a third of German, French, Russian and Chinese men."With the men's fragrance market forecast to reach thirteen billion dollars in sales by 2012 (representing a 17% increase on current sales figures), fragrance houses and perfume companies are scrambling to come up with a roster of men's fragrances that appeal not just to Generation Axe (20-something straight males who grew up bombarded by overtly sexual ads for Axe body sprays), but also to the large number of women who purchase fragrances for men -- and let's not forget that 33% of men's perfumes are worn by women for their own enjoyment, too.
Add all the above numbers together and we've got a pretty good explanation for the increasing use of the term "unisex" in regards to new fragrance releases.
Is it for him? Is it for her? Does it even matter anymore? A woman already helps the man in her life to update his wardrobe, buy new furniture, choose a new car, scout for a house, change his hairstyle, shop for groceries and pad his employment résumé, so maybe it's a good thing that male fragrances are
now formulated with the discerning female nose in mind. If she's got your back, then it's all good, right?
After all, while women were reveling in the likes of YSL Opium, men were still slapping on Old Spice, so I'm thinking a few nudges in the right direction from
the lady of the house could only end up benefiting everyone involved, from man to woman to innocent bystanders in a crowded office elevator.
Below are four "unisex" releases to get you started on the niche company path to fragrance happiness (the NYTimes reports that the 18-24 year old
consumer group is favoring niche lines over mass market due to a desire for the new and unusual over brand name recognition). All four are smoky fragrances
that trend masculine, yet still manage to leave female fragrance fanatics swooning over their rich, dusky and downright magnetic qualities.
Descriptions are followed by actual snippets of reviews from the numerous female reviewers who love them.
LE LABO ROSE 31:
A rose is a rose is a rose, unless it's by Le Labo, and then it's a dense pile of dry,
stacked rosewood, instead. With Le Labo, it's best to expect the unexpected, and Rose 31 is no exception -- there's that famous Grasse rose, yes, but cedar, cumin, clove and oudh wood are the real stars of the show, supported by an earthy vetiver that cuts a path right through the forest to grandmother's house. Toss in some ambered musks, and you've got your own big bad wolf, too. Wear it with jeans and t-shirt, or a black tux. It can handle both. Damsel in distress not included. Note: Le Labo reports that Rose 31 is their best selling fragrance, and it was awarded Best Fragrance for 2007 from Wallpaper magazine.
What the women are saying: "deep, dry woods with earthy undertones and soft spices";
"an assertively virile fragrance"; "all warm woodsiness and a little musky"; "an intriguing woody, spicy scent"; "dark, earthy and ... kind of disheveled"
LESNEZ LET ME PLAY THE LION:
For when you want to go light, but don't feel like dousing yourself in a mass-market cologne that smells like a jug of citrus juice laced with Windex, LesNez is a Swiss fragrance house that built its reputation on the pursuit of subtle beauty, and there's no good reason why you shouldn't join the chase. Dry and spicy, Let Me Play the Lion mixes sandalwood and cedar with incense smoke and a cool black licorice afterburn. Charismatic would be a good description, both for the fragrance and for the guy who's smart enough to wear it.
What the women are saying: "sweet, spicy, austerely woodsy, and hot as fire"; "dry
woodsy goodness, very faintly gourmandish"; "If I smelled this on a man I would have to
stay very near so I could keep sniffing him over and over"; "satisfyingly smoky and dramatic"
ANNICK GOUTAL ENCENS FLAMBOYANT:
The Annick Goutal brand has been a ladies affair for so long, even her lace trimmings have
lace trimmings (yeah, sure, there's Duel and Mandragore, but I've yet to bump into a man who
wears either), but with the release of the Les Orientalistes series this year (which includes
the well-executed Encens Flamboyant), Goutal has blown the doors wide open and now
everyone's invited to the party.Encens Flamboyant, French for burning incense, is a bottle of
camouflage for the urban warrior. Trenchcoat? Check. Briefcase? Check. Smokescreen?
Wearing it. But don't worry about inadvertently setting off any fire alarms in your vicinity --
understatement is a Goutal trademark. The balsam-fir woodsmoke of Encens Flamboyant will
have every female in the vicinity furtively searching for where that amazing smell is coming from, so go on, don't be shy - tell 'em it's you!
What the women are saying: "the smell of church vestments and tapestries scented with
candle smoke and incense"; "airy and soaring ... nuanced and compelling"; "both fresh and
warm"; "incense as a walk in the cold, clean outdoor air ... strong but transparent"
How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying
and Love the Unisex Fragrance" or
"Gee, You Smell Terrific!"
by Nathan Branch
fragrance market, but what's less commonly discussed is how female consumers dictate
trends not only for feminine fragrances, but for the contemporary male fragrance market,
as well.
PARFUMERIE GENERALE L'OMBRE FAUVE:
If you've ever wanted to know what it feels like to be irresistible to the opposite sex, just spray on some L'Ombre Fauve and brace yourself for a tsunami of attention in JohnPaulGeorge&Ringo proportions. With a scent-note list that reads like a manual for building the perfect beast: amber, musk, woods, incense, patchouli -- L'Ombre Fauve is sweet and dark and dusty and warm all rolled up into one cozy and embraceable package,
an embraceable package that could very well include you. Buy it in haste. Wear it at leisure.
What the women are saying: "softly resinous crackling balmy amber"; "dark, intense and sensual"; "luscious and somewhat wild"; "Nothing is missing, nothing is wanting"
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